"cam" bolt mix up for upper control arms i need help

[boominXplorer]

Yeah just put in the bolts w/cams attached in first. If you can squeeze the the bolts in from the inside by the shock towers it will be much easier to tighten them up. It will be a pain to get them in but you will with ease get a ratchet on the nut if they are on the outside

 

[mudbug0426]

the bolts do not sit straight up and down, every single one tilts outwards towards the fenders slightly. i have just tried once more putting each bolt through this mount trying each washer along with it, and none of the washers line up with the tab it is suppose to sit against. i am placing the washers color tip up every time and i got nowhere. i honestly do not know what to do or why this isnt going back together.

i can put the bolts and washers in every other mount and have them fit like they are suppose to, but when it comes to the driver side rear mount it just doesnt work. i am installing all hardware exactly how it was removed.

 

[mudbug0426]

jobs all done, thanks for everybodys help

 

[kevin74656]

jobs all done, thanks for everybodys help

How did you get the bolts back in? It was a struggle to get them out, and now I am having a hell of a time trying to get them back into the bracket and through the bushings. The cams on the bolts keep getting hung up in all the tubes and brake lines in there. It's frustrating as heck...TIA for any advice you can give me. :wavey:

 

[mudbug0426]

The drivers side is a pain in the ass with the brake lines. I was very careful and gently pushed the lines back enough to get the bolt in.

 

[yavapaires]

Are your bolts and washers "one piece" as some have said? When I took mine out, that is what I thought too, but they were just rusted together. A little Liquid Wrench and a hammer took care of that problem. Just put them back kinda one piece at a time. You may have to GENTLY move the brake lines on the driver side. However, from some of the things I have read, I am not sure mine are factory bolts. My bolts have a flat millled on them with a large eccentric washer on each end to facilitate adjustment. This makes it a lot easier to install.

 

[kevin74656]

First off, thanks for your replies!

The bolts have the cam welded to them. There is only one other cam per bolt, and it isn't color-coded.

Since posting last night I was able to get the forward bolt in, but the aft one is still causing me grief. I put pix of the remaining bolt and where it needs to go on Photobucket. Thanks again!

Kevin

http://s472.photobucket.com/albums/rr81/Trail_Blazer_2009/

 

[mudbug0426]

Your bolts are different from mine. It looks like your are adjustable cam bolts so you shouldn't have the problem I did putting them back in. Just make sure your careful moving the brake lines on the driver side

 

[kevin74656]

Your bolts are different from mine. It looks like your are adjustable cam bolts so you shouldn't have the problem I did putting them back in. Just make sure your careful moving the brake lines on the driver side

Will do, thanks. It's pretty darned tight in there and the dumb cam keeps hanging up on the brake lines, but it came out so it should go back in...at least I hope so!

 

[FullBlownModz]

What colors did you put where? I'm having the same problem

 

[just1me]

I know this is an old thread but I am having the same troubles. The previous owner I bought my truck from installed new upper control arms and never marked the bolts, and so some of the camber washers/shims where backwards and even upside down, and I been searching everywhere online trying to find pictures or information on how they are suppose to go. The suspension is completely stock, with stock tire size, and uses the same stock cambers bolts and washers/shims and mudbug posted.

 

[Harpua216]

if he installed the upper control arms new, I think they come with adjustable cam bolts or washers at least. as mentioned in this thread there is a 3/8 hole for a ratchet so you can adjust them. I dont think they come stock with the adjustment cams. I can a 1st gen and 2nd gen but i believe they were the same, so i may be corrected but, if you have those cams the washers are go on the outside of the control arm brackets (assuming you have the one piece design on both sides) and on the inside closest to the axle. the hexed out or slanted sides can go in usuallly on an angle facing towards the middle of the car.

again the only way to get them right is to use a level on your rotor to get them as good as you can, and then go get a professional alignment.

 

[just1me]

These are the factory washers/shims I have, the non adjustable ones that are preset from the factory, but the previous owner didn't mark them or install them back correctly and so my wheels are kinda like this / \. You can see they have an offset to each shim and a flat side for the bolt, but they didn't pay attention to that when reinstalling the new upper control arms which are both 1 piece arms.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Do yourself a favor saving time and aggravation by installing adjustable camber washers (K8674) or camber kits (K80065). Even if you managed to install the OEM non adjustable square washers correctly, "close" is not good enough to prevent misalignment and tire wear. Either way, alignment is STILL required unless you like burning through tires.

http://www.moogparts.com/pdf/did-you-know/english/DYK10_106_En.pdf

One kit needed for each side.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1998,ranger,2.5l+l4,1315103,suspension,caster+/+camber+cam+bolt+kit,13512?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+/

 

[just1me]

Thank you, I plan on having it aligned as I already bought tires for it, but I didn't plan on putting them on till after it was aligned anyways.

 

[Harpua216]

agreed with the above. those are stock, or what comes with a cheap kit. even if you search on ebay you can find a cheap pair, hopefully made of good metal. still, the only way to get rid of that toe in is with a good alignment. after that give it few 100 miles and reassess your ride.

 

[just1me]

So which do you use, I see them with 1 5/8, 1 3/4, and 2 degrees available, I'm guessing for lowered or raised vehicles you need more degree adjustability, my truck is stock, no plans to raise or lower it.

 

[Harpua216]

So which do you use, I see them with 1 5/8, 1 3/4, and 2 degrees available, I'm guessing for lowered or raised vehicles you need more degree adjust-ability, my truck is stock, no plans to raise or lower it.

its not a matter of higher or lower vehicles - its actually the beveled weld that is around the hole. this way when you adjust it by turning you get more or less movement depending on bevel size.

I am not sure which one i bought though. maybe someone else can give you a better answer.

 

[swshawaii]

1 5/8* should get your stock ride height in spec easily. Moog's K80065 adjustment range was plenty for my 2.75" front drop.

 

[swshawaii]

Here's two excellent R&R tutorials:

Replacing Camber/Caster Bolts | Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums - Serious E

How to: Install camber adjusters 2nd Gen Explorer - Fixing a lowered X's alignment | Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations