cam swap causing headache

[Matthew Weidman]

just installed trick flow cam (.499/.510 lift, .268 duration) in a "00" explorer limited w/ 5.0. also installed 1.6 rollers, intake spacer, MAC cold air, MAC exhaust, and PRO-M mass air. awesome power even without program yet. after install cant get check engine light to stop coming on. throws up DTC P0300, random/multiple cylinder misfire. everyone says check CKP sensor and CMP sensor but ive fooled with both to no prevail. runs awesome though. any one know anything? hate looking at MIL light!!!

 

[410Fortune]

CKP? CMP?
What are those?

the crankshaft sensor must be adjusted perfectly from what I understand.
An aggressive cam will cause issues with the late model computer as well.
If you look at the Ford Racing catalog and the cams they offer for the GT-40p 5.0L you will see they have a note that says not for use with late model computers or something to that effect.

If the crankshaft sensor is in th ecorrect position then a computer tune will likely get rid of your MIL.

Keep us posted on what you find out as I am going to be putting a E-303 cam into my 96 5.0L VERY shortly.

 

[Matthew Weidman]

CKP=crank pos. CMP=cam pos. I'm friends with Justin Burcham of JPC Racing, and his high up Ford contacts told him my comp. shouldn't have a problem with the swap, that it has to be the CKP or the CMP. I just thought someone might know something. I don't know a whole lot about distributor less ignitions. I'm used to 5.0 Mustangs.

 

[section525]

You didn't do anything with the CKP, right? And it seems like if the CMP wasn't on the correct gear the truck wouldn't run right.

But it sounds bad ass! I have an e-cam in mine.

 

[410Fortune]

Did you reset the computer? hahahaha I had to ask.
the stock rollers are 1.6 you guys are nuts replacing them.
I ahve been told there is no need on a low mileage engine like mine, the 5.0L roller drivetrain stock holds up really well, even after 150K miles I have heard opened up they show little/ni signs of wear.

I am planning to just install the cam, timing, and waterpump and call it good.

Have you tried it with the stock MAS re-installed?

 

[section525]

C'mon Jamie.. would you rather have stamped steel or these!?!?

 

[Matthew Weidman]

the rollers were freebies so why not. as for MIL, cam sensor is back where it started, and like was said if it wasn't right it wont run right(trust me)! and the crank sensor is un-adjustable. But some guys insist the problem lies in one of those two areas...

 

[Turdle]

the rollers were freebies so why not. as for MIL, cam sensor is back where it started, and like was said if it wasn't right it wont run right(trust me)! and the crank sensor is un-adjustable. But some guys insist the problem lies in one of those two areas...

If your cam position sensor(cmp) is not adjusted correctly, with the special synch tool, the engine will run, but not right, throwing a possible code. The housing itself may look lined up correctly, but what about the internal stator?, which must be re synched with chain change.
From what I understand, 97 and later cam position sensor syncronizes the injectors, the crank position sensor times the ignition.
Take my word for this, if the CMP is off by 1 tooth, your engine will scream, until it burns a piston.
Got time for a story? Or just get the tool and align it correctly, you cannot assume it is synched just because it is looking like it is like it was before.

 

[Turdle]

here is the
camshaft position sensor tool

http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?...il&PHPSESSID=0c56fed5f99d3b4246d4b0c45b9ca3dd

 

[410Fortune]

*****in.

Section, OEM is fine for now I gotta get this thing put back together!!!
hahaha

The Ex is not supossed to be the project here: BII + tube = me