cam synchronizer tool

[justanother1]

I need to replace the cam synchronizer in our 96 exploder. Is the cam synchronizer tool needed? I have the synchronizer out but didn't see what position the half moon shape peice was in. I'm sure that the tools make this really easy to install but didn't want to buy it for a 1 time use. I'm thinking that this would sit in this ")" position with the opening at the top of the top but I'm not sure. Please let me know your thoughts.

 

[Turdle]

you need the tool, no getting around it.
Here is a link where you can get it, this may not be the right one in the link, but you will find it on this site

http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?...il&PHPSESSID=0c56fed5f99d3b4246d4b0c45b9ca3dd

 

[Cali' Explorer]

What JTSmith said. I tried setting this without the tool, but there is no way to get it accurate enough without the tool.

Also, I had a hard time finding the tool anywhere but Ford initially (Who wanted over $100 for it). If you take the OTC part number (for example OTC-6469), you should have better luck. Autozone didn't show the part initially, I then gave them the part number and they found it in their OTC Catalog and ordered it. $25 I believe. The other option would be if you have a mechanic or friend who already has one, borrow it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155206

 

[justanother1]

Guys, thanks for your input.

I have bought a tool (OTC-6472) locally yesterday which I'm going to see if I can return it. Today I received the cam synchronizer (Doorman 689105) from rockauto.com and there is a plastic tool included with the synchronizer and the sensor. I bought this for $30.00 ($29 and some change) before shipping. Ford want about $100 for just the cam synchronizer, another $41 for the cam position sensor, and then you have to buy the tool.

Tonight I'll get to enjoy the aggrevation of installing this.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Honestly, installation is a snap. The hardest part is disconnecting your ignition to reach everything, but if you're crafty, you can do it without removing the ignition (I did).

 

[justanother1]

Got explorer back together but no hqave a spudder when excellerating from a stop. Do I not that the cam synchronizer timed correctly? How do you time this correctly? I had the motor at top dead center. I did not positing the synchronizer at 60 degrees off center. I just put everything back where it was when I took it apart.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Which tool did you end up using to set the synchonizer, OTC-6472 or the one that came with your Cam Synchronizer?

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Also, how the body of the Camshaft Position Sensor housing is placed shouldn't make a difference, so long as you used had the tool installed properly in the Camshaft Position Sensor Housing and then installed it at absolute Top Dead Center, you should be good (unless the instructions for yours read differently). Mine is a 5.0, so I don't know 100% how the setup differs for the 4.0.

 

[justanother1]

Cali Explorer, did you have to turn your synchronizer as if setting the timing on the vehicles that had a distributor?

I used the tool but do not line the synchronizer up at 60 degrees to the rear right from the centerline front to back with the motor at top dead center. I do have the sensor wires in / or very close to the same possition as they were in before taking apart. My Hanes book has a very small mentioning about setting the ignition timing under the electrical section. There is not much information though.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Well, as I said, you are running a 4.0L (it looks like) and I have a 5.0L, so setting the timing is different for each engine. But, from what I can see, the setup is the same.

Basically, the 2 key components in the setup are the body of the Camshaft Position Sensor (The part you bolt down) and the Sensor itself. What the Camshaft Alignment Tool does is set the vane (the half moon shaped protrusion in the rotating part of the housing) to the proper position it should be in relative to the Sensor at TDC.

All you should have to do is bring the engine up to TDC on the Compressions Stroke, install the Camshaft Position Sensor Housing WITH the Alignment tool installed and properly engaging the vane. You then bolt down the housing with the Alignment tool still installed. This locks the housing in place and ensures that the Sensor will be set properly. Now you just remove the alingment tool and install the sensor. I may be wrong, but the 60* of center line thing shouldn't affect the sensor at all, but is probably set that way for clearance of belts and the wiring harness... the only things that set the timing are the housing and is relation to the Sensor which should have no bearing on how it is oriented into the block.

One key issue. You need to make sure you are TDC of the COMPRESSION stroke. If you are at TDC of the Exhaust Stroke, your timing, fuel, etc... will be 180* off and your engine will run like trash because it will be injecting fuel and firing the plugs at the wrong time.

As I asked before though, are you using the tool that came with your CMP, or the one you purchased after the fact? I believe if you got one for a 5.0L instead of a 4.0L, it would still install properly, but it may not set the timing properly (I've never compared the 4.0L to 5.0L before).

 

[justanother1]

I agree timing is different from 4.0 to 5.0. Wish I had the 5.0 (easier to do this). From what I've read, the 5.0 point straight to the front of the motor where the 4.0 is pointing towards the rear right side of the motor 60 degrees off the centerline front to back.

I'm thinking that the 60 degree position should not matter as long as the half moon shaped peice is properly aligned.

I used the tool that came with the synchronizer assembly. I did compare both tools and they align the same.

To get to top dead center, I help my finger with a rag in place of the plug on cyl #1. Bump the motor over until the compressor had released with a poof. Rotated the motor by hand to tdc (0 degress on the balancer). Installed the cam synchronizer with tool bolted fast. Had to bump motor over to fininsh seating the synchronizer. Put hold down back on. Removed alignment tool and installed sensor. Finished putting drivers side wires back on coil pack, air intake tube back on, etc. Started motor. Motor idles smooth. I was playing in the drive way, under light (just enough to movefrom dead stop) acceleration runs fine. Under hard (half throttle from dead stop) acceleration, motor studders/stumbles (act like not fireing correctly / not enough / too much fuel).

I did have a little play (maybe 1 tooth on the gear) with either alignment tool(s) in place. I'm wordering if I loosen the clamp down bolt and given a slight turn if this would take care of my studdering problem.

I really appreciate your help.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Well, as I say, did you confirm that you are on TDC of the compression stroke? Typically they way you would tell this is by looking at the Rocker Arms, but this is probably not an option for you. Short of that, I don't know of a better way to check that you are on TDC of compression. Keep in mind, the motor rotates 2x for every 1 revolution of the Camshaft Position Sensor. So if you are not on TDC of the Compression stroke, the engine will be injecting fuel on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke (I did this once).

Also, when you say you had to bump the motor to get the Camshaft Position sensor mounted, what do you mean? With the engine at TDC, you should slide the Camshaft Position sensor housing in all the way without a need to bump the motor. If you are bumping the motor before you can seat the Camshaft Position Sensor, something is wrong, because that will throw off your timing.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Ohh, another thing to keep in mind, your motor has 2 sensors it uses for detecting engine location. It should have a Crankshaft Position Sensor and the CMP. Basically, the ECM uses both of these to determine whether or not the engine is at TDC and when to inject Fuel/Fire Spark.

You can completely disconnect the CMP and the engine will run, it will just be in LIMP mode, which means it doens't know the current state of the engines position. The engine will run, but it will run like garbage.

Similarly, if the CMP and Crankshaft Position Sensor don't match up closely, the computer will ignore the CMP and just use the CKP in limp mode again. Timing, etc... can not be resolved by twisting the CMP housing... this will just confuse the ECM and cause it to go into limp mode.

 

[justanother1]

I did unhook the wiring from the ECM, to try to have a little more room while I was doing this. Can it be the ECM is relearning itself? I did not leave the driveway yet. Our driveway is only 2 cars deep and wide. I'm going to double check things when I get home to see if I missed anything.

 

[justanother1]

Cali Explorer, I got the problem resolved. I took the can synchronizer back out and reinstalled if after bringing the motor to tdc. I used the new sensor instead of the one that was on the explorer. I don't know if the sensor was going bad or if I had the syncronizer off a couple teeth.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Well, glad to hear you got it resolved. In my mind, the thing you were talking about that set off the biggest hit in my head was that you said you had to bump the starter to get the Synchronizer to drop in. You should have just been able to wiggle the Synchronizer body back and forth (with the tool) to get it to drop in... if not, there was something else going on.

But, in any case, its in and sounds like its working ok.

 

[justanother1]

The reason I had to bump the starter was to get the oil pump driveshaft to line up in the bottom of the synchrozer (had to do this with car that have a distributor). I tried to wiggle it but just couldn't get it to drop in to be fully seated. This was the first that I have had to do this job. I did this without taking the intake off to give more room. There is not any room to really see little on getting your hand in there. Anyway, problem is solved. Again, I really appreciated your thoughts.

 

[pitbulldell]

Do You Need The Tool If You Only Replacing The Sensor?

 

[Turdle]

Do You Need The Tool If You Only Replacing The Sensor?

No, not if you just replace the cap--