camber solution?

[00Rngr]

Ok,

On the passenger side of the vehicle, the control arm is adjustable side to side for caster, right? So has anyone tried to put a right side control arm on the driver side? The screws that the arm slides in are kind of long. You could add some washers behind it on the screws and get more positive camber, in theory. That is if the passenger arm will fit on the drivers arm. Correct me if im wrong but i think it might work, for more of a drop. Also not sure of what the alignment issues are when you go more than a 2.5". If its just the camber then it might work, but if its like toe then that might be another problem then. Just some info or opinion maybe?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[james t]

Sounds like a good idea. It would be worth doing if for no other reason than to have a cheaper balljoint on the driver's side. The passenger side is only around $80 since your are only buying half the arm. The driver's side is well over twice that.

This is something i never thought about but would work if the passenger side arm will work on the driver's side. I see no reason why it wouldnt.

 

[00Rngr]

Yeah i was just sitting here thinking about it today. But also im about to replace my ball joints, lowers im ordering today not to sure when ill order the uppers, but when i do ill give it a try and let you all know how it goes. Another thing though, i need some info on what kind of alignment< like howd it come out and how much play with the toe and caster, is there with the 2.5 TT. If anyone can give me info on this will help a lot. Bc if there aint any more room to adjust then the camber solution wouldnt work then.
Thanks, sorry so long also,
Matt

 

[CDW6212R]

Anyone still watching this? I have the EE kit in from 18 months ago. I now have about 26,000 more miles on my 98 Mountaineer. I will need tires again soon, and I'd like to lower the front close to 2" total, and maybe go to 18's.
I only have just over 1" in front now, because the T bolts were getting close to falling out. They are adjusted to get equal height from frame to ground.
If I took them out, then the distance from the frame to ground would be uneven(unloaded). There would be more preload on one of the torsion bars.

Is it possible to get 2" in the front while having some adjustment left in the bolts? Can the torsion bars be loosened and reattached at a point where the T bolts could adjust to 2"? Thanks,
CDW

 

[00Rngr]

Sorry man i havent had the chance to try this but im baggin gmin enow so there is know need to try it the way im doing it........but i know hhow you guys can get a 2in drop in front with out camber or any other problems but its kinda some work....i think it be worth it though if your serious.....i would, i am doing it actually because ive done it to the ranger i had to and f 150s it will work on also.....