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Camber solution!!!!!!

00Rngr

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JAMES....i used the DJM arms(also didnt mean to be offensive towards you if it sounded like it)......and about the sport tracs not to sure....
LO XPLODER Iknow they are close to the explorers and stuff but im not sure how close......but
HART, i know your cool from when i was on here a while back but please...everyone keep the smart ass remarks to your self (if you were trying to be) you can look at something and see how close something is....if you want to be real about it it was actually more on the positive side and the toe was off only bc we just set it all the way in, in order to check the steering and make sure i wasnt hitting anything and i said camber not alignment....if you werent being smart then ok forgive me but it kinda sounded like it....im here to help yall out i told you i was gonna bag my explorer and try some stuff in the process and give yall info, bc thats what i do is bag things, and maybe help yall out some so please if you dont want the help then be quite if you do want it be respectful. all i ask...also seeing that i do have picts and backed it up and somebody else was excited and ready to try this out means that it is true and not a bluff......another thing i mentioned maybe i have a freak bagged explorer or had a freak bagged ranger ....you know how applications can be sometime.....so consider that also......but for right now mine looks good and working fine.....it will be through later this week and we will see 100% then...which i'm willing to bet nothing will change..
 
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00Rngr

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another thing, im hoping to have the whole front back together today and stuff if you dont trust my eyes then ill get a angle finder and ill take some more picts of it with the wheel on and send them to the guy i sent them to before bc i dont know how to post the picts
 

boominXplorer

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00Rngr

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Thank you man.......the measuring tape looks kinda different on the 2 but its just the angle but you can see the one sitting on top of eachother and side by side....
 

Hartman

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Still don't know how it would correct the camber considering the DJM arm looks a hair shorter than stock, which would pull the spindle closer to the frame thus making the camber the same if not worse.
 

etc

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It looks like the balljoint is mounted higher, which might help push out the spindle out more, but those pictures don't show the balljoint mount/angle very good.
 

lo xploder

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00ranger: how are u going to bag the back of your explorer? what style suspension
 

00Rngr

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etc said:
It looks like the balljoint is mounted higher, which might help push out the spindle out more, but those pictures don't show the balljoint mount/angle very good.
thank you.....lol....yes the balljoint is mounted higher and also it isnt the same crazy angle as the factories which allows it to move and sit straighter

but if anything the djms look longer but they arent they both sit at like 71/2" from center to center
 

00Rngr

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right now the rear is mono leafed....why?...bc i have had both links and mono and the way i ride my mono and make it work, i get the same and some cases better ride than the links.....plus i get like 2in" of clearance above the 20's for ride height and that is plenty for me......i say some but almost all folks that know something about bags will argue that a link is better ride than a mono, yes they are right, but if you build it correct and do it the right way then the mono will ride just as good as a link....all my friends but one has links, including my brother, and they can vouch for me that my mono rides just as good as their link.....another thing i am going with a link later on bc they look 100% better in the rear but i only had a month to bag the truck before i leave this saturday to head back to school so therefore the main reason is that i dont have time to build a link....i will though eventually, hopefully soon, but mono if done right is as good...sorry for the book
 

00Rngr

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air over axle....also...had to ditch 2 cross members and mount the gas tank between the rails in back.....and buil a place to reuse the stock shocks without them bottoming out when i am laying frame....any other info just post and ill be glad to help
 

00Rngr

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another thing in the first picture of the arms side by side look at the angle of the factory its angled back and look at the angle of the djm its sitting straight
 

00Rngr

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Hart....ive dealt with rangers suspension and explorers for a while and can compare the two and be certain about what im saying most of the time........if you bag a ranger with the djm lower arms and leave the factories, you will be sitting about 2" off the ground from laying, when installing the djm uppers with the djm lowers it corrects the balljoint angle thus allowing it to drop the other 2"in to lay.....what is happing is that the upper joint is binding up and cant move as much and not at all anymore when binding and the djm upper corrects that problem...also if you use MOOG BALLJOINTS it will give you more travel in the joint too....i will SUGGEST to use this balljoint rather than the one that djm install already for you.....they will say sometimes, depends on the day you ask....i mean this literally, lol, that there joints are equivalent to MOOGS. They arent, they dont allow as much travel in the joint and they arent regreasable......on a lowered anything regreasable is a must
 

Hartman

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I'm skeptical when you say that a monoleaf will ride better than a link setup. Even properly set up 2 link will ride better than a monoleaf coupled with a huge block. Not to mention that that isn't safe at all and won't lay the rear out.
 

00Rngr

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Http://www.streetsourcemag.com/Profile.aspx?profileid=10196

Mean to tell me thats not layed out? Didnt think so. Thats my 00 Ranger. Ill be glad to get you more picts to prove you wrong once again, when i put the Explorer on the ground. Like i also said if done correct a mono will ride as good as a link...all my damn friends have links and what do i have a mono does mine ride just as good, coming out of there mouth, YES, if you use air over axle...you get lots of lift...mounting your brackets as low as possible while still layed out you will have full lift at about 25-30 psi with a mono....thus letting you have only a 1/4 of air in the spring and at full lift giving you a comfortable ride and have clearence......the mistake everyone makes is not mounting the brackets where needed to be (example: my friend has an extreme bagged on 17's, layed. When he built his he used a mono also but mounted the brackets for a bigger size wheel, when he lifts it he has to run about 3/4 or more air in the spring to just get bairly enough lift to drive, thus giving him a horrible and ruff ride, like all others)........also.....i have had 3in blocks on all my links with no problem......a reverse 4 link is less safe than a mono....ive only seen and heard of monos breaking when they arent taking care of.......ex: off roading, hopping, ect.....so unless you know what you are talking about please keep to your self.....another thing a 2link sucks...if youre gonna have a link go with a 4link or more, not less.....a 2 link cant really hit side to sides either....big minus in a ranger/explorer, any vehicle that has a lean to it....
 

NusenseSD

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I hear you what your taking about in building the mounts so that when you air out they are fully compressed.. Which is true. Most people don't do that.. Problem with a monoleaf is that you will get axle wrap out of it, and I have seen mono's break on people that don't hop. So they aren't as safe as you think they are, links are always better..

As far as your ranger.. Looked like a nice ranger, but for some reason it just doesn't look like its laying low enough to lay out. Especially if you had twinkies on the rear. My truck tucks more of a 17 than yours did of a 20... Again it looked nice, but for somereason it just doesn't look like that frame slapped the ground of course it could have been the angle of the camera..

http://members.cox.net/baggedranger/fender/truck2.jpg
 

00Rngr

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yeah i know you from rangerpowersports...but yeah it was layed out layed the front an tranny member....you have a link....it allows more travel up in the rear than a mono does thats why your 17's tuck more.....it was layed definitely...and yes links are safer but anything with a block has axle wrap...my brothers edge with factory blocks in back has axle wrap....but i havent ever had it bad enough to affect anything you know.....another thing though about the picts is when i put the 20's on it, i raised it back up with djm arms...the pict with the 18's is when i had the spindle flip done and it sat lower......but with the 20's when i put the djm's back on it raised it up to about a an inch or 2 from laying so thats why that pict dont look as low...but also has to do with the fact that a link allows more travel up into the fender wells than a mono does..thats why though.....but it did lay no problem....i had to put the djms back on bc i drug thru the actual bushings in the lower control arm on the factories.....yes i know i drug thru the engine member and then thru the a arm and half way thru the bushings....that wasnt safe so thats why i raised it back up plus i was about to sell it to a guy a week before it was totaled so the whole time i was tryin to sell it i raised it up so i wudnt keep draggin it.....lol...
 

00Rngr

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forgot something else also....to lay actual frame on a 2000 is really unlikely bc you practically have to bd it to lay actual rails.....why? bc the fram only hangs down about a inch an a half maybe 2 at the most from underneathe the body....its tucked up in there good.....diffreent than the pre 98's...my first ranger was a 94...lota diffrenece
 

Hartman

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OK do you want me to explain why you won't lay out with a monoleaf with an Explorer? Quite simple. First, the Explorer leaf springs mount under the frame, not beside it like a Ranger. This means you can't run a flip kit and get the leafs way up there. Second, the gas tank or the gas tank skid plate (if you have one) will hang you up before laying out. You want to drag gas tank, fine, but you won't be laying out. Third, Explorers don't have much wheel well room in the back. If you plan on at least a 4" notch and cutting out the wheel wells, that's great, but it would be pointless because you won't get low enough to utilize the new space because a monoleaf won't get you that low unless you run a 10" block.

Oh and there is this little thing called pinion angle, which is not so great using a monoleaf and a huge block.
 

00Rngr

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ok have you not heard anything im doing...im bagging it to lay......i have ditched the tank and installed a fuel cell between the rail in back.........the leaf perches will be sitting on the ground when layed out already done it....i have a 8in notch in the rear and monoed wit a 3 in block.......another thing if you put a flip kit on an explorer you will be raising it up not lowering it so thats out the window....all you need is blocks....ive already done it man.....have had too many bagged monoed laying rides...and i done all them...i know what im doin ....thats all i do is bag vehicles.....another thing....pinion angle isnt a problem bc of the bags they lift up to where i will be riding at...i had to tub the rear also....did you think i was lowering it to lay w/o a notch and bags, just monoed? also have you never seen a bagged and layed explorer before? or a bagged and layed hardbody or anythig like that...they also have underrail mounted spring perches?
 
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00Rngr

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did you not think i didnt know they werent under the rail? and a 10in block i know you are exaggerating but go take some measurements man....its very simple and quite possible......if the hurricane here dont screw me up like i said when it gets down and workable then ill take more picts for you.....ok?
 



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