Camshaft positioning sensor replacement

[ruudsjoukes]

Dear forumreaders,

Just new to the forum and did some research on the camshaft positioning sensor. couldn't really find a clear answer so I'd rather ask it again. Sorry for any double work or thread I missed...

I just bought a 96 ford explorer sport with 4x4 and which is only 3door.
Everything works, the engine runs fine (as it looks like) but it has been sitting a while.
What basics should I do with the car? ( I imagine things like replace oil, run motor for some time, replace all fluids etc... Just my first car so don't really know..)

What is an issue though is... that the car will not run every 30th time or so.
The garage said it was the camshaft positioning sensor and needed replacement.
Found those on ebay for around $50 which seems okay. also found the guides how to replace it which isn't too hard. the fuelpump has been replaced which shouldn't be the problem.
Should I be able to do this myself (I am a mechanical engineer) or should I rather buy the part and get it to the garage to let them synchronise/fix it?

The last question is the important one. Feel free to reply to my other question but I think I can figure that one out by reading more into the forum.

Thank you once again!
Ruud

 

[DaExplorer]

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you are on the right trail. With a vehicle that has been sitting or you don't know the service history it is always a good idea to change the fluids. Don't forget the fuel filter. Also clean the MAF would be good. I have not changed a camshaft position sensor but looks straight forward.
Side note I have been to Vancouver twice now and really liked the area and the people.
keep checking the forum.

 

[OneLever]

Welcome to the forum!

What is an issue though is... that the car will not run every 30th time or so.
The garage said it was the camshaft positioning sensor and needed replacement.
Found those on ebay for around $50 which seems okay.

The camshaft synchronizer has probably gone bad taking the camshaft position sensor with it. Do not go for the cheap replacements. They are made in China and the tolerances are usually off. The spring pins are also weaker and tend to shear off. The camshaft synchronizer drives the oil pump so if the wrong pin shears then you could pretty much instantly loose oil pressure.

Should I be able to do this myself (I am a mechanical engineer)

Yes, you might need a manual to explain it but that's a good reason to buy the shop manual anyways. Alternatively you can get an AllData subscription which has most of the shop manual information.

Read through these threads to understand the work and parts involved:

Thread 1

Thread 2

Thread 3

 

[ruudsjoukes]

Thanks for the replies.

Have read myself through the info and it seems okay to do it.
As far as I can see this part would just work but I would love confirmation of that since I don't like to screw it up.

The car runs fine without it being replaced but garage said it would be better if I do so.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...10615155682&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

Another thing popped up.
I have a light that says 'check engine' which burns as long as the car runs.
The car has a good compression (although I think it could be better) and runs pretty good as it looks like.
What parts of the car should I check for this engine problem? Or will it be the camshaft again?

Would it be helpfull if I make a video with sound for you all to 'listen' what it could be?

Thank you once again!

 

[OneLever]

Part Brand: Dorman (OE Solutions)

No. That is the cheap Dorman (Chinese) part that people have had issues with. You are looking for either a Cardone (Re-manufactured by NAPA), or Motorcraft (OEM manufacturer) part.

You can find the Motorcraft part on RockAuto.com and use the discount code found in this thread for some money off. Or find the part numbers from there and buy them somewhere closer to you since shipping will probably be high.

The problem with the higher quality synchronizers is that they don't come with the alignment tool. You need to use the alignment tool there is no way around it. So if you can buy the cheap Dorman part locally, use the tool, and then return it that might work. Also, you should at least take off the sensor to see what the insides look like. It could just be the sensor, but if the rotor on top the synchronizer has broken then you need to replace the whole assembly.

 

[ruudsjoukes]

So far, No good.

The car has been rejected by Aircare because they feel that the compression is too low.
This could be the camshaft problem. Therefore I brought it to a garage that fixed a flat tire for half price and will have a full diagnosis on what the problem could be.
Either this will be today in the evening or monday morning. I have a bad feeling so far but we'll see where this ends up.

If it seems to be the sensor, I will make a log on the replacement.
If it seems to be the camshaft, I'll try to do it as well. The camshaft is hard too reach and will be a struggle to get it out. The Ford Shop determined that it would cost 1900$, worth more than the car. Seems odd to me.

Keep you guys updated on this. Thanks so far.

 

[OneLever]

The car has been rejected by Aircare because they feel that the compression is too low.
This could be the camshaft problem.

To my knowledge a faulty camshaft synchronizer can not cause compression problems. Low compression comes from: faulty head gaskets, piston rings, or valve seating.

will have a full diagnosis on what the problem could be.

Could you post what type of engine you have (4.0L SOHC or 4.0L OHV) and any engine codes (DTC's) that you get? Also the entire diagnosis and estimated repair cost they are giving you? There are people on this board with more knowledge than myself who can at least tell you if you're getting a fair analysis.

If it seems to be the camshaft, I'll try to do it as well. The camshaft is hard too reach and will be a struggle to get it out.

The camshaft and the camshaft synchronizer are two different things. The camshaft(s) operates the intake and exhaust valves and is connected to the crankshaft via chains. And the camshaft synchronizer is directly geared to it with a sensor on top: the camshaft position sensor. The camshaft position sensor is used by the PCM to control fuel injector pulses

The Ford Shop determined that it would cost 1900$, worth more than the car. Seems odd to me.

Dealerships will milk you for everything you're worth...it's in their best interest.

If I am mistaken anywhere here feel free to correct me. I'm still learning the details of these engines.

 

[ruudsjoukes]

Yes and no. If an engine inlet is not synchronised the way it should be, it will have a less effective pulse and therefore less compression. That is as far as I know.

I don't have a code reader, will get full details and post all I know here. Not only to see if I get a good estimate, also to help people in the future who might experience the same problems.

Ford askes about 2-3times as much as a local dealer for the same simple things. In my opinion there are not much things a local couldn't fix with the right equipment. Will keep you updated anyway.

 

[rightnwrong]

All of you guys have an idea about the problem of ruudsjoukes. It also helps me because we have the same problem.

 

[4X4 Explorer]

camshaft position sensor install

1996 Ford Explorer 4.0 MFI Camshaft Position Sensor (installation)



For those who have the less powerful 4.0…..this is the 160 hp type X engine,,,,,,the changing of the CPM…or camshaft position sensor,,,,,,can be quite a challenge.

This not the 4.0 OHV engine.

I spent hours searching the web for the location of this electrical component. Never did find a good and thorough description. So having finally located and replaced it, I will tell you its exact location.

General spot…….dead center of the engine….all the way back between intake manifold and firewall. Now specifically….inline with the left corner of intake manifold about four inches below the corner bolt. To actually put your hand (if you have small hands) on it you must first wrestle a thick wire bundle and three plug wires. Yes it is directly below these wires. It is tucked behind so snugly that you will probably never see it, This is a feel by hand type of operation. When you feel the flat top with a ¼” bolt on either side slide your fingers toward the firewall. You will now feel, and if properly lighted, see the wire connection.

The most comfortable position is putting down a blanket over engine then laying on top with your head as far back toward firewall as possible.

Check out Auto Zone…………

For a good picture of what it should look like. It is not the same as the other 4.0 engine,

Notice the top of the CPM is flat with two ¼ inch bolts. It is shaped like a light bulb (two dimensional). You can access with a socket and 6” extension.

Because it was my first time replacing this component, I found it helpful to remove coil box and plug wire holder attached above CPM. This allows for better sight lines and more hand/finger space.

Notice the orientation of the component. The wire connection end faces the firewall but not perpendicular (12 o’clock)…….more like 11:00 o’clock.

The two bolts are “kept” on the CPM so do not try to remove completely……..loosen until they wiggle . Pull straight up. The electrical plug can be disconnected with a simple flat screwdriver. Clip is on top of socket…just pop up slightly and pull toward firewall.
Remember to snap fit on top of shaft and point connection end at 11:00 o’clock.
Hand start bolts. Only requires a few twists with ratchet, Do not over tighten

NOTE: Ignore all info about special tool….setting the timing…TDC…..etc.
That is only if you place to change the entire camshaft synchronization shaft