Camshaft Synchronizer ?

[ErnieX]

96 4L OHV - I'm replacing my CMP to get rid of the squeal. Set engine at TDC and removed the sensor from the drive unit and installed the synchronizer tool on the existing CMP to check the alignment before removing the old CMP. The alignment tool is pointing in the right direction and is rotated approximately 30 degrees clockwise from the engine centerline. My Haynes manual says to install the new drive unit with the alignment tool pointing 60 degrees clockwise from the engine centerline.

My question is do I reintall it as it came out or do I rotate the new one to match what the manual says? Truck was running fine with no codes. CMP has not previously been removed or adjusted.

Don't want to put it all back together and it not be right. What do ya'll think?

Thanks

 

[Turdle]

From what I understand it is sort of like an old school distributor. It doesn't matter how the distributor is rotated as long as the #1 ( and all other wires) are located in the correct position relative to the rotor under the cap.

So, if the tool fits with #1 at TDC when you removed it, then installing a new one with the tool on will work, provided the engine has been locked in the same position, and not rotated while the drive unit is removed.
I really do not think it matters which way the connector faces. If it bugs you just move the whole unit back a tooth and check again.

 

[ErnieX]

Thanks for the reply - That's pretty much what I thought. Think I'll put the new one in the way the old one comes out - it was running fine the way it was except for the squeal.

I'll post back when completed to verify.

Thanks

 

[ErnieX]

Just posting to close out this thread. When I went to install the CMP, it was tough to get it seated all the way down. Had to tap it a little bit to get it down. Anyway, once it seated it was rotated 60* clockwise from the centerline as shown in the manual. Fired right up and ran fine - apparently, as Turdle said, it doesn't matter as long as the tool aligns properly at TDC.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Triple5s]

5.0 camshaft synchronizer position installed

I am trying to replace the synchronizer on my 96 5.0 after getting obd code p0340. thought it was the sensor at first but after removing the sensor I found that not only was the sensor completely shredded but the "half moon" piece on the synchronizer was also completely ripped off so I am not able to tell what position it is in. I'm aware of the whole TDC thing and have the new synchronizer and tool to install it correctly but want to know if anybody has photos of what the synchronizer looks like when installed, with the tool off, on a 96 5.0 explorer and any other helpful tips will be appreciated too.

 

[TheJokersGT]

so guys and gals heres the deal on these. The cam position sensor cmp cam synchronize or whatever you would like to call it...is solely used by the ecu to time the injector. If the sensor is not orientated in the correct position the injectors will not fire in "sync" with the rest of the motor. This is not a detriment to the running of the vehicle and can be quite a bit off and still run. How ever the vehicle will not get the best fuel economy as it should if it is not timed perfectly. The alignment tool is only a reference and holds the "halfmoon" in the correct position for installation, but you will then need to use a multimeter to orient the sensor correctly, It is not difficult to do this it only takes a couple of mins to time it and if your cam sync is out of sync, putting it back into sync will get you a few mpgs lol. PM me if you want the exact details on using the multimeter to orient your sensor.
I had to do this and the haynes and chilton were all but useless to get the job done so i went and camped out at the ford dealer until they told me how to do it..."which was like pulling teeth from an imaginary hen" those guys are touchy about their shop manuals, and "secret" web sites

 

[SensRanger]

Hi guys I have a synchronizer dilemma. The chirping started last week on my 96 4L. I knew it was the synchronizer so got a new one delivered. But the old one will not come out! My mechanic says the aluminum housing seems to be just jammed in the cast iron block and won't budge. Probably rusted together and fused really. For now he put some thicker oil into the top of the synchro which has stopped the chirp for now. Said to replace it the motor will need to be raised and the thing accessed from behind the oilpan underneath. No funds for that kind of job!!! Anyone else have this issue and have any tips??? Thx.