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Check Charging System after installing new alternator

From what I was told by Fords parts department, if I bought a remanufactured Ford part from a dealership and installed myself and it failed during the warranty period, I should bring the vehicle to the dealership for them to verify the part failure. Ford will replace the part and install it and no labor cost. I never had to walk this path. Can anyone shed some light on this?

As to local auto parts store rebuilt starters and alternators, the rebuild outfits just replace parts they believe are broken/worn. Remanufactured parts from Ford in this case replaces everything. Rebuilt and remanufactured are not the same. I'm leery of auto part stores remanufactured parts and treat it more as rebuilt. Go to the auto part store's website and select item you want (ie. alternator) and read the reviews. Many commented they had to replace multiple times. I do not like doing the same job twice and wasting time especially when there is so little room to work on our vehicles.
 



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Ford parts and labour carry a 2 year warranty. I had not heard that they sold remanufactured parts. I'm not sure if the warranty period is the same on those. ford parts warranty - Google Search This does not apply to OEM parts, only Ford'replacement' parts.

Peter
 






Ford parts and labour carry a 2 year warranty. I had not heard that they sold remanufactured parts. I'm not sure if the warranty period is the same on those. ford parts warranty - Google Search This does not apply to OEM parts, only Ford'replacement' parts.

Peter
@peterk9

When I bought my 5R55S from Ford, they sold ONLY Remanufactured automatic transmissions via their parts counters; brand new not available. Remanned in their own reman factory. imp
 






Ford parts and labour carry a 2 year warranty. I had not heard that they sold remanufactured parts. I'm not sure if the warranty period is the same on those. ford parts warranty - Google Search This does not apply to OEM parts, only Ford'replacement' parts.

Peter
Sorry I wasn't clear in my comments. I meant referring to starters, alternators and transmissions. All other parts are new.
 






I have a 2013 Explorer that had the check charging system light turn on and the steering get really tight. So I checked the Alternator and was only getting 10 volts. I changed the Alternator (put in an aftermarket AC Delco from Auto Zone) Belt and Tensioner. Put it all back together and it started right up. Steering was back to normal but the Check charging system turned on again. Stumped with what to do I took it to a mechanic. The checked the battery and was reading only 450CCA so I had them put in a new battery. So now all that is new and the mechanic wasnt able to go deeper into the checks bc it was a Saturday and they closed early. So I took the Car. It has run fine everyday but I get the message everytime the car starts moving and stays on. I read that maybe the BMS sensor and that can be done by the dealer. I just dont wanna keep dumping money into the vehicle as we have had a ton of issue since we first bought it. Any ideas or advice you guys can give me?

Thanks!
 






I have a 2013 Explorer that had the check charging system light turn on and the steering get really tight. So I checked the Alternator and was only getting 10 volts. I changed the Alternator (put in an aftermarket AC Delco from Auto Zone) Belt and Tensioner. Put it all back together and it started right up. Steering was back to normal but the Check charging system turned on again. Stumped with what to do I took it to a mechanic. The checked the battery and was reading only 450CCA so I had them put in a new battery. So now all that is new and the mechanic wasnt able to go deeper into the checks bc it was a Saturday and they closed early. So I took the Car. It has run fine everyday but I get the message everytime the car starts moving and stays on. I read that maybe the BMS sensor and that can be done by the dealer. I just dont wanna keep dumping money into the vehicle as we have had a ton of issue since we first bought it. Any ideas or advice you guys can give me?

Thanks!
2013 explorer limited, 4wd, 3.5L

I'm having this same issue with my 2013 explorer minus the steering problem. The light comes on within a minute of starting, and stays on even at highway speeds. Here's the crap I've been through so far:

The check charging system light comes on within a minute of starting, and stays on even at highway speeds. Here's the crap I've been through so far:

1) The check charging system light was on, so i went to parts store and had them test it. They tell me the voltage regulator is bad. I thought "alternator," because I didn't realize it was regulated by the PCM at the time. Replaced the alternator with an aftermarket one from OReilly, also did belt and tensioner, but I still have the light coming on.

2) I went back, and warrantied a battery I put in back in October. I also upgraded it to a motorcraft 850CCA. This didn't fix it. I ordered a second alternator in case they just gave me a defective one. They warrantied it with no issue. Then, I installed the second alternator which still didn't fix it. After each new alternator, I was getting about 13.6v at the battery with the engine running.

3) I read on this forum that it could be the wiring harness. I ordered one and installed it. The problem is strangely better, but not fixed. Now, the charging system light only comes on when at idle. It turns off when I'm off idle (still less than 2000rpm).

4) I read on these forums that it could be a grounding issue. I thought this is consistent with "improvement" from part 3, since I had to remove several grounds to replace the harness, and I did a quick half ass cleaning on them. So this time, One by one, I removed all the grounds (including ones I didn't mess with when doing the harness) cleaned them with a wire wheel on a Dremel, smeared the grounding point, cable end, and screw with conductive grease, and reinstalled them. Just to be safe, I installed an extra ground between the transmission and the chassis and greased that up too. The problem isn't fixed.

Only now have I gone after it with a volt meter (had to buy a new one since my old one finally crapped out, hence my hesitation). I'm getting 13.6 from the alternator right at the post on it, as well as at the battery. No vd on the hot side. From the case of the alternator to the negative battery terminal I'm losing about 1.5 mV, so basically nothing there.

I'm ready to set it on fire at this point. Does anyone have a recommendation for a next step here, because I'm at a loss. I'm thinking I'll just shell out the money for a new motorcraft alternator on the off chance that this aftermarket brand just sucks.
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
I have a 2013 Explorer that had the check charging system light turn on and the steering get really tight. So I checked the Alternator and was only getting 10 volts. I changed the Alternator (put in an aftermarket AC Delco from Auto Zone) Belt and Tensioner. Put it all back together and it started right up. Steering was back to normal but the Check charging system turned on again. Stumped with what to do I took it to a mechanic. The checked the battery and was reading only 450CCA so I had them put in a new battery. So now all that is new and the mechanic wasnt able to go deeper into the checks bc it was a Saturday and they closed early. So I took the Car. It has run fine everyday but I get the message everytime the car starts moving and stays on. I read that maybe the BMS sensor and that can be done by the dealer. I just dont wanna keep dumping money into the vehicle as we have had a ton of issue since we first bought it. Any ideas or advice you guys can give me?

Thanks!
Do you have any update to this thread you started?
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:

Do you have any update to this thread you started?

Apparently the thread he started was deleted as a duplicate post.
 






The story started out interesting but I would like an end result
 


















I fought a similar issue on a oldsmobile. It turned out that the pcm communicates with the alternator to monitor load. If that communication does not happen you get that message even if the voltage is correct.
 






I saw a similar thread, but it had no answer. Long story short - alternator seized and serpentine belt got shredded. Installed new alternator ($200 on Amazon), Motorcraft tensioner and Michelin belt. Battery is 1 year old and I trickle charged it over night, car starts, voltage is between 13.6 and 14 (12.5-12.7 on a battery without engine running), but check charging system light is on and doesn't go away. Internal lights intensity is changing (dimmer-brighter) when the engine is running. Otherwise I have no other issues, but I'm hesitant to drive a car for a long time. Any ideas?
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Your thread was merged with this one on a similar issue.
In reading this (other thread) it seems the problem was solved by installing a new alternator after the replacement was found to be bad. Have you confirmed that your is good? Sounds like it could also be bad. I believe that you seem to have fluctuating voltage/current levels if the output brightness of the lights is constantly changing.

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Your thread was merged with this one on a similar issue.
In reading this (other thread) it seems the problem was solved by installing a new alternator after the replacement was found to be bad. Have you confirmed that your is good? Sounds like it could also be bad. I believe that you seem to have fluctuating voltage/current levels if the output brightness of the lights is constantly changing.

Peter
Not yet. It's a hell of a pain to remove the alternator and replace it again. I took it on a 5 mile drive and it seemed OK, I'll try to do some more work on it.
 






Well, my case is different. Voltage is 13.6-14.2, it runs and drives fine, I drove over 50 miles today, kept it on idle for over an hour, the only problem I have is a battery light and a "Check charging system" warning. So I wonder if it's a PCM/ECM issue or is there a charging relay somewhere? This is a second time it happened, bought a car new... I had 99 Explorer go over 500K miles with no issues other than just regular maintenance.
 






I am having all of this very same issue with my 13 Explorer limited. My OEM alt seized in July. I replaced with an aftermarket alt from Napa. I then got the check charging sys indication. It’s intermittent and the interior lights flicker/fade up and down at night with stereo, head lights & loads applied etc. I’ve been to advanced auto & the battery, alt ARE working as they should.

I put the multimeter on it myself with car on & load applied, cold battery etc and the numbers are all good. If it wasn’t charging the battery. My car would have died months ago.
A private shop & Ford shop both told me this vehicle is only compatible with the FORD ALTERNATOR brand. I found that very hard to believe. Do you guys think that’s true now?! I’m already $225 into it now. 🤦🏼‍♂️
 






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A private shop & Ford shop both told me this vehicle is only compatible with the FORD ALTERNATOR brand. I found that very hard to believe. Do you guys think that’s true now?! I’m already $225 into it now. 🤦🏼‍♂️
I don't know if it's true or not but installing a Motorcraft alternator seemed to fix Nojosecool's issue. (post #7).

Peter
 






Got a motorcraft. It's fine now.
I am having the exact same issue and have basically gone through the same diagnostic approach trying to clean or isolate parts of the charging system. I am taking from this post that you just put in a motocraft alternator in leu of the reman and the problem went away?
 



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I am having the exact same issue and have basically gone through the same diagnostic approach trying to clean or isolate parts of the charging system. I am taking from this post that you just put in a motocraft alternator in leu of the reman and the problem went away?
That seems to be the solution. I believe others have found the same thing. BTW, the member you quoted hasn't been seen here since June 23, 2020.

Peter
 






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