Cleaning IAC Valve. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Cleaning IAC Valve.

|SkidRow|

Active Member
Joined
October 9, 2010
Messages
68
Reaction score
0
City, State
T, BC
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 Explorer XL
I was just wondering what I can use to clean it with. I've read that you can use Electrical Parts Cleaner, but I can't find that anywhere. I've also heard you can use Break Cleaner, Carburetor Cleaner and some other stuff, but I'd like to know what you guys would recommend. I've been experiencing the whine and now the high RPM when I'm in Park or Neutral. I'm also going to replace my U-Joint, since I've been getting the clunk when I put it in reverse. I have to bring it to a shop for that, since it's way too cold out for me to do it at home. It's been awhile since I've made any posts, because I discovered the Search Button to be extremely useful :D :salute:
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I was just wondering what I can use to clean it with. I've read that you can use Electrical Parts Cleaner, but I can't find that anywhere. I've also heard you can use Break Cleaner, Carburetor Cleaner and some other stuff, but I'd like to know what you guys would recommend. I've been experiencing the whine and now the high RPM when I'm in Park or Neutral.

I used break cleaning fluid. Did the trick for me when my idle was high in park and neutral. Do allow the fluid to 'soak' in to thoroughly clean the inside and then let the IACV dry before putting it back on. While you're at it you van clean the electrical contacts with contact cleaner.
 






Have you found this thread?

It shows the one piece IAC. Some are two pieces, the valve separates from the motor.

I like Berryman's B-12 carb cleaner.
 






carb cleaner works well IMO. Brake clean does also, but carb clean is more designed for breaking down carbon and stuff
 






Have you found this thread?

It shows the one piece IAC. Some are two pieces, the valve separates from the motor.

I like Berryman's B-12 carb cleaner.

Yes, this is the one where I got the mixed answers. Some said the Carb Cleaner and on other forums, said that Carb Cleaner would eat up the carbon, the rubber and plastic, so you had to be very careful with it. I picked up some Break Cleaner lastnight, will be cleaning it in a bit :)
 






I use Berrymans also. But I Found I can only get 1 or 2 cleanings out of it before I end up replacing it anyway. That was on a high mileage Explorer though. (200-300k miles).

Since the rebuild I'm still on the same IAC, but it has only been 30k miles or so over the last few years (used to average 35k miles a year, now its maybe 7k).

~Mark
 






Used GUNK Break Cleaner and it worked great. Big difference in response time, idle isn't that high in Park or Neutral anymore, about 1000RPM, just have to wait for the computer to adjust the intake, then it should be back to normal pretty soon :)
 






So, when I slow down or come to a stop and then go back on the Gas, the front end kind of drops like it wants to die, and there is a delay from when I give it some gas and when it gets the gas. My High RPM in Park and Neutral has gone down to 700 now, still dropping back down to normal. This happens every now and then, just not all the time. It's been like that since I got it, about 2 months ago (The wanting to die, not the high RPM in P or N.)

Since I've got it, I've done a bit of fiberglassing on the body, changed the plugs, changed the oil, did an engine flush, changed the coolant, changed the battery and on Friday, I'll be cleaning the MAF sensor(for the experience and just to have it clean) and get my rear U-Joint replaced as well.
 






i used brake cleaner, but i still have the wine, sounds lke from my air conditioner compresser but i m not too sure. it hums.
 






Back
Top