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Clunk and err driveshaft question

I pulled the shaft on mine and was unpleasently surprised when I found it in the main drive of a resturaunt parking lot instead of the front row parking space where I left it!
 



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You can also get a grease injecting needle

A much better idea than mine, lol. That's the difference between me and someone that's done this for years....
 






I will cut it open and see how things look, and grease it up, if it quits it down i think we have the answer.

Here is a short video i shot of the shaft, this of course before i saw your later post talking about opening it up.



thanks

Dave
 






A much better idea than mine, lol. That's the difference between me and someone that's done this for years....

I saw it t oreilly and asked. In the section where they sell grease guns there are a bunch of different fittings.
Seriously, I have learned everything here and by taking stuff apart.

There is also a nipple for squirting grease into the new cv -but I bet the needle would get it in there also.
This is my picture, I give myself permission to use it

greasenipple.jpg

There is a small hole on the end of the cv which meets the transfer case.Right where your fingers are in the video still picture. Fill it with grease.

Wait, on second thought I think there is an old guy slam hidden in there. I'll remember that-:p::D
 






Hi guys

well, i got a chance to look at the mountaineer today. I bought the needle point grease attachment and greased the front shaft up. Before i went to install shaft i wanted to test the front diff out like suggested. While holding one wheel i was able to spin the yoke and the other wheel would turn, i did this on both sides and the results were good.

I did notice a lot of play in the yoke and an audible pop/clunk noise. The yoke turns free and so do the wheels but it seems there is a problem in the spline maybe?

How much work is it to tear a front diff out and can they be found fairly cheap used or if rebuilt does it require setting gear mesh and such?

I made another video maybe you guys can give me a better idea of what i am looking at repair wise.

I did change out the transfer case oil. It was dark but smelled just like the new stuff and i did not notice any metal shavings or shiny pieces or parts in the oil.

 






That does appear to be a bit of pinion slop.
another front diff from a tru 4x4 v6 of the same gear ratio would be a good bet.

look for an axle from a 98-01. 96 and earlier may not fit due to the CAD assembly
 






I may be wrong here, but even with the DS pulled, the gears are still turning inside the front Diff. So wouldn't you still hear the slapping?
 






You would think but it only pops when I turn the yoke fast. Once it is moving it turns smooth aand the wheels turn as they shouuld.
 






I have searched the forum for the dreaded clunk but I have a question that I didn't see an answer to.

99 mercury mountaineer v8 AWD 200k

Bought this truck a few weeks ago and have done the following.

Front cv axles
Front wheel hubs
Front and rear shocks
Sway bar links.

This is the first time that I have done any of my own work so all of this is new to me.

It started out with a clunk only after going from reverse to drive or when getting on the gas a little. Last night I had a flat and after changing tire it was clunking multiple times not only under a load but when I hit the brakes.

On the rear drive shaft there is a boot up near the transfer case before the u-joint. If i grab the shaft in-between the u-joint and the rubber boot I get some lateral play. Is this normal? What exactly is underneath the rubber boot? Some type of joint?

Any help would be great as I am not looking to drop a ton more money on a truck that I have only driven a 200 miles.

I have had a few people look at my mountaineer and we have not found anything wrong with the u-joints.
brother, my wife and i decided back in 2012 that it was time to replace our 1998 Ford Explorer that we bought new, this was the absolute best vehicle we had ever owned!!! at the time we purchased what was to be our next new///newer SUV whic is a 2005 Mercury Mountaineer Premier Model with the 4.6 V-8 and Automatic Tranny with the All Wheel Drive and Traction Control not to mention al those other neat little gadgets and GIZMOS that are good for **** accept to replace when they go bad!!! My Friend like you about a month after we got the SUV my son and i had stoppped at the local car wash in town to rinse it off and i pulled up too far so i needed to back up a bit, so i put it in reverse and as soon as i did i hear what sounded like s damn Bomb going off in the TRANNY, So i put it in Drive and limp up the road to Wal Mart where i (( THOUGHT )) i was gonna Check the transmission Fluid in the Transmision but boy was i ever FOOLED BROTHER I LOOKED AND I LOOKED FOR A DIP STICK TO CHECK MY TRANSMISSION FLUID THEN FINALLY MY SON SAID DAD UR WASTING UR TIME IT DOESNT HAVE A TRANSMISSION DIP STICK!! i was like WTF???? SO I LIMP IT THE WHOLE 14 MILE BACK TO THE HOUSE SO I WOULDNT HAVE TO PAY $150 JUST TO HAVE SOME GUY HAUL IT 14 MILES one damn way!! then i called my Cousin who is the MASTER of ANY AND ALL TRANSMISSIONS and tld him what happened and he said it has broken the band that goes around the drum inside of the housing. so Yep!! there we were less than a month into owning this 05 Mountaineer that i bought on EBAY FROM A DEALER IN NEWTOWN PENNSYLVANIA CALLED BILL MARSH FORD!! I BOUGHT IT SIGHT UNSEN BUT DID MANAGE TO TRACK THE OLD LADY WHO HAD JUST TRADED IT IN ON A SMALLER VEHICLE SINCE SHE HAD JUST LOST HER HUSBAND. SHE TOLD ME I NEEDED TO TALK TO HER SON CAUSE HE TOOK ARE OF ALL THAT STUFF FOR HIS PARENTS AND SHE PUT ME IN TOUCH WITH HIM. I COULDNT HAVE ASK FOR A BETTER FAMILY TO HAVE PURCHASED A CAR FROM. THE GUY TOLD ME HIS DAD HAD BOUGHT THAT MOUNTAINEER FOR HIS MOM BACK IN 2005 AND IT HAD NEVER EVER EVER BEEN ON ANY DIRT!! it stayed under the garage 90% of the time after his mother who was a teacher had retired then he got her to trade it right after his dad had passed for a smaller car. when i saw it in the pics online and then when my wife and i went to meet the truck driver who was delivering it to us as we had it shipped here to us in Eastman, Georgia from Newtown Pa. when we arrived the truck driver had alread unloaded it and hd it ready to go!! my wife and i were both looking on thd it so i stopped and got out and ask the driver where our SUV was at and he pointed over to one that was over behind us that was sitting there running with the lights on cause it was like 11:00 pm, he said thats yours right there!! thats when my wife and i just turned and looked at each other like...dude THAT CANT BE RIGHT!! HE SAID 2005 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER READ OFF THE SERIAL # AND I WAS LIKE YEP THATS GOTTA BE IT THEN!! IT LOOKED JUST LIKE IT HAD JUST CAME OFF THE ASSEMBLY LINE!! I DECIDED TO LET THE WIFE DRIVE IT HOME!!! ANYWAY..THE GUY TOLD ME THAT THE CAR HAD BEEN TAKEN THE MOST EXCELLENT OF CARE OF OVER THE YEARS HIS MOTHER DROVE IT THE OIL CHANGED EVERY 2500 MILES. ALLFLUIDS CHANGED ONCE EVERY YEAR!! WAXED THREE TIMES EERY YEAR. AND NOT THIS LITTLE BULL CRAP WAXING EITHER HE SAID HE HAD IT FULLY DETAILED THREE TIMES EVERY YEAR AND I COULD AND STILL CAN TELL CAUSE THE HEADLAMP PLASTIC HADNT FADED THE SLIGHTEST THEY BOTH LOOKED BRAND NEW!!! SO ANYWAY THE TRANSMISSION WENT OUT THE FIRST MONTH THE CAR HAD 89K MILS ON IT! SO I HAD MY COUSIN REBUILD IT AND REPLACE IT WITH WHAT FORD MOTOR COMPANY WAS CALLING THEIR UPGRADED REBUILD KIT SINCE THIS IS THE EXACT SAME TRANSMISSION THAT COMES IN THE MUSTANG GT AND ALL OF THE F-150 AND SOME F-250 TRUCKS WITHT EH AUTO TRANSMISSION. OK WE GET IT BACK AND IT WORKS BETTER THAN IT DID WHEN WE GOT IT..SO HERE WE ARE IN 2016 AND ONE DAY I START HEARING THIS WHAT SOUNDS LIKE BRAKE PADS GOING BAD SO I CHECK MY BRAKE PADS, THAT WASNT IT... SO I START DOING MY REGULAR THING WHEN **** STARTS BREAKING ON MY VEHICLES..I RESEARCH EVERYTHING, I COME UP WITH THIS POSSIBLE BAD FRONT WHEEL BEARING CAUSE MY MOUNTAINEER IS BOUNCING AND STILL MAKING THE JUST GOD AWFUL GRINDING NOISE SO I JUST BUY A NEW FROMT LEFT WHEEL BEARING AND REPLACE IT..I DRIVE IT AROUND THE BLOCK ND NO NOISE SO IM ALL HAPPY//////BUT THE NEXT DAY I JUMP IN IT TO GO TO TOWN AND OUTTA NOWHERE THERE IS THAT DAMN NOISE AGAIN AND I NOTICED THAT I ONLY HEAD IT WHEN I TOOK OFF FROM A DEAD STOP AND WHEN IT SHIFTED INTO LIKE 3RD GEAR THE NOISE JUST STOPPED AND IT STOPPED PULLING TO THE LEFT REALLY BAD.SO ANYWAY THE DAY I WAS UNDER IT CHANGING THAT WHEEL BEARING JUST HAPPENED TO GLANCE BACK AT THE REAR FRONT DRIVE SHAFT CV BEARING BOOT!! IT WAS ALL ROTTED AND BROKEN..SO IM LAYING IN BED THAT NIGHT AND IT HITS ME!!! I BET YOU THAT THRE IS A BEARING GOING ACTUALLY GONE BAD IN MY FRONT DRIVE SHAFT MINE HAS THE ON THE DASH BUTTON THAT ALLOWS ME MTO LOCK MINE INTO FULL TIME ALL WHEEL DRIVE OR FULL TIME AUTOMATIC AWD!! SO ONE DAY WHILE I WAS ON A LEVEL SURFCE ACTUALLY A NEWLY PAVED ROAD THAT WAS REALLY SMOOTH I LOCKD IT INTO ALL WHEEL DRIVE AND BEGAN TO BACK UP AND DUDE THERE IT WAS!!! THAT OLD FAMILIAR SOUND....IT WAS LIKE THE CV AXLE GOING BAD IN A 92 HONDA ACCORD!!! SO I TAKE IT OUT OF AWD WHILE IT WAS MOVING IN REERSE AND IT JUST ALL OF A SUDDEN QUIT MAKING THE NOISE!!! SO..WHAT IM TRYING O SAY HERE TO EVERYBODY WHO OWNS EITHER THE EXPLORER OR MOUNTAINEER IF YOUR HEARING THIS GRINDING NOISE MAKE SURE YOU LISTEN REALLY WELL TO SEE IF IT JUST STOPS WHEN YOU GET UP TO SPEED, SEE I THOUGHT THAT SINCE TH DAMN SUV IS ALL WHEL DRIVE THAT THE FROMT DRIVE SHAFT TURNS ((( ALL OF THE DAMN TIME ))) WELL I GOT NEWS FOR YA GUYS!!!!! IT DOESNT TURN ALL OF THE TIME!!! ONLY WHEN THE REAR WHEELS ARE GETTING MORE THAN 20% WHEEL SLIPPAGE!! FOR HEAVENS SAKE DONT GO AND CHANGE YOUR TRANSFER CASE WHEN ALL IT MAY BE IS YOUR FRONT DRIVE SHAFT.. CAUSE THAT BEARING ON THE END THAT MOUNTS TO THE TRANSFER CASE ITS SELF IS NOTHING MORE THAN A CV AXLE BEARING ITS SELF AND YOU KNOW AS WELL AS I DO THOSE THINGS AINT BUILT WORTH A ****E!!!NOW FOR THOSE OFYOU THAT DONT LIK TO PUT USED PARTS BACK ON YOUR RIDE YOU CAN REBUILD THAT REAR ,,,FRONT DRIVE SHAFT CV BEARING FOR AROUND $90.00 THATS IF YOU BUY THE PARTS FROM YOUR LOCAL ROB YA BLIND PARTS HOUSE..YOU CAN GO ONLINE TO ROCKAUTO.COM OR PARTSGEEK.COM OR AUTOPSRTSWAREHOUSE.COM AND GET THE SAME PAT FOR MOST TIMES LESS THAN HALF OF WHAT YOUR LOCAL ROB YA BLIND PARTS HOUSE WILL CHARGE YOU FOR THE EXACT SAME BEARING OT REBUILD KIT!!
 






I have searched the forum for the dreaded clunk but I have a question that I didn't see an answer to.

99 mercury mountaineer v8 AWD 200k

Bought this truck a few weeks ago and have done the following.

Front cv axles
Front wheel hubs
Front and rear shocks
Sway bar links.

This is the first time that I have done any of my own work so all of this is new to me.

It started out with a clunk only after going from reverse to drive or when getting on the gas a little. Last night I had a flat and after changing tire it was clunking multiple times not only under a load but when I hit the brakes.

On the rear drive shaft there is a boot up near the transfer case before the u-joint. If i grab the shaft in-between the u-joint and the rubber boot I get some lateral play. Is this normal? What exactly is underneath the rubber boot? Some type of joint?

Any help would be great as I am not looking to drop a ton more money on a truck that I have only driven a 200 miles.

I have had a few people look at my mountaineer and we have not found anything wrong with the u-joints.
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

Are you autistic? Im not even joking. Look at what you wrote.

~2400 words. This is an essay by academic standards.
 






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