code 327 (check engine light)

[boggs1227]

Hi,
just checked the EGR Vacuum regulator, voltage is ok and resistance is 32 ohms (26 - 40 ohms is ok).

In order to check the EGR itself, i need a vacuum pump or is there another way!?

oh yeah one more thing ....the egr solinoid...after going through all of that crap with the code 327 issue.....found out that the connector on the egr solinoid ...one of the wires had pushed it's self back in the harness and was not makeing a proper connections .so i had to push it back and then got some hot glue and filled in the back side of the connector and let it dry good before i reconnected it .not sure if it's common for that type of wire problem but def need to look at that ,becasue if your undoing and reconnecting 14 year old plastic parts alot while doing testing ...they are fragile and can break and or f'up real easy on you if your not carefull ...broke my vac line that ran from the solinoid to the egr valve that way and had to replace that to with new rubber vac hose line .

 

[mikeinri]

Hi Franz,

Sorry, but you're issue seems to be even more difficult than mine was.

I agree with boggs about double (triple if needed)- checking all the connectors. That's an extremely common (and under-appreciated) cause of CELs, especially KOEO codes.

At this point, with the amount of money you have invested, it would probably be worth paying for a professional diagnostic, and make sure they include a vacuum test of the EGR system.

Good luck, let us know how you make out.

Mike

 

[94xlt4WD]

on the TPS i get 5.0v at BR/W, shoudn't i get 5.0v at the DPFE BR/W wire too?

yes, you should.

you could check the continuity of the harness.

Key OFF, ECM disconnected.
measure resistance between BR/W wire at TPS and BR/W wire at DPFE.

should be 0 Ohms.

it is 0 Ohms, what does that mean!?

 

[94xlt4WD]

Hi Franz,

Sorry, but you're issue seems to be even more difficult than mine was.

I agree with boggs about double (triple if needed)- checking all the connectors. That's an extremely common (and under-appreciated) cause of CELs, especially KOEO codes.

At this point, with the amount of money you have invested, it would probably be worth paying for a professional diagnostic, and make sure they include a vacuum test of the EGR system.

Good luck, let us know how you make out.

Mike

Thanks Mike,
i have been at the Ford Dealer and paid $ 300.- just for the diagnose, at this time my 4WD and the ABS were gone, they told me the DPFE is gone too, if they would have changed the sensor i would have paid $ 400.- . ($ 1400.- for all three problems, i fixed my 4WD and ABS for maybe $ 50.-)
But i don't think they checked the vacuum, i guess i have to get a pump!?

Franz

 

[cjones101812]

it is 0 Ohms, what does that mean!?

it means you should get 5.0v on the BR/W wire at both the TPS and DPFE.


here is the diagram i'm looking at:

 

[cjones101812]

with key OFF, ECM disconnected, DPFE disconnected. do you get 5.0 volts at the BR/LG wire at the DPFE??

if not, run an Ohms check on the wiring.

key OFF, ECM disconnected, DPFE disconnected.

check between Pin 27 BR/LG at the ECM harness and BR/LG wire at the DPFE connector. should be about 0.0 Ohms.
check for short between Pin 27 BR/LG at the ECM harness and ground, and other wires at the DPFE connector. should be infinite or at least very high.

check between Pin 26 BR/W at the ECM harness and BR/W wire at the DPFE connector. should be about 0.0 Ohms.
check for short between Pin 26 BR/W at the ECM harness and ground, and other wires at the DPFE connector. should be infinite or at least very high.

 

[94xlt4WD]

with key OFF, ECM disconnected, DPFE disconnected. do you get 5.0 volts at the BR/LG wire at the DPFE??

if not, run an Ohms check on the wiring.

key OFF, ECM disconnected, DPFE disconnected.

check between Pin 27 BR/LG at the ECM harness and BR/LG wire at the DPFE connector. should be about 0.0 Ohms.
check for short between Pin 27 BR/LG at the ECM harness and ground, and other wires at the DPFE connector. should be infinite or at least very high.

check between Pin 26 BR/W at the ECM harness and BR/W wire at the DPFE connector. should be about 0.0 Ohms.
check for short between Pin 26 BR/W at the ECM harness and ground, and other wires at the DPFE connector. should be infinite or at least very high.

without key on engine off i don't get 5.0v at DPFE and TPS!
i have 0 Ohms at pin #26 and BR/W and 0 Ohms at pin #27 and BR/LG!
i ditn't get anything from pin #26 to ground or pin #27 to ground!?

after the test i checked for voltage with key on engine off, i get 5.07v at BR/LG (pin #27) on the DPFE and 5.07v at BR/W (pin #26) on the TPS!

how are your wires lined up on the harness, mine are
DPFE:
BR/LG (top) this one has 5.07 volt
Grey/Red (middle)
BR/W (bottom) the bottom should have 4-6 volts, i just don't know if the BR/W wire is the right one for the bottom or BR/LG should be there!?

TPS:
Grey/Red (top)
Grey/W (middle)
BR/W (bottom) this one has 5.07 volts

 

[cjones101812]

my diagrams show the connector wiring the same as yours.

just to clearify, is this a new problem or has the light/problem been around a while and you decided to fix it now?? i'm curious why you are getting voltage where you shouldn't and no voltage where you should get voltage. too bad you aren't in AZ, i'd like to see this in person.

did you get 5.07v at BR/LG (pin #27) on the DPFE with the ECM plugged in or unplugged??

 

[94xlt4WD]

my diagrams show the connector wiring the same as yours.

just to clearify, is this a new problem or has the light/problem been around a while and you decided to fix it now?? i'm curious why you are getting voltage where you shouldn't and no voltage where you should get voltage. too bad you aren't in AZ, i'd like to see this in person.

did you get 5.07v at BR/LG (pin #27) on the DPFE with the ECM plugged in or unplugged??

the check engine light is on since i bought the explorer, i just thought because the Dealer said it's the DPFE sensor (bevor they checked i thought it's the EGR valve) i change it!
with the ECM or PCM unplugged i ditn't get any voltage, i just get voltage with key ON engine OFF on the BR/LG wire.
how are your wire colors on the DPFE!? to you have 4-6 volts on the bottom wire of your harness and is it BR/W or BR/LG?

Thanks, i really appreciate your effort
Franz

PS.:would be nice do be in AZ now, our neighbors are down there over the winter, we had 4°C (about 40° Fahrenheit) today, not so bad for the north.

 

[joeboxer]

Tsb

Here is the TSB for diagnosing the DPFE voltages.

 

[cjones101812]

Joe,

i looked it over and with it being a 94 Pin 65 is actually Pin 27. 94 only had a 60-Pin harness. anyways, his problem is 5.0v on that wire with the DPFE connector disconnected which brings me to the conclusion that that wire is shorted to VREF or the computer is shorted. The wire from Pin 26 (VREF) which should have VREF of 5.0v has 0.2v but that same wire at the TPS has 5.0v. yet when he did an Ohms test between the TPS and the DPFE on the VREF wire it showed 0.0 Ohms.

Franz,
when you did the Ohms check from the ECM pin 27 (BR/LG) to the DPFE sensor did you check between Pin 26 and Pin 27 on the connector?? just to make sure the wires aren't shorted together. also, check Ohms between Pin 26 and Pin 27 on the ECM (be sure to use a digital meter).

 

[94xlt4WD]

Joe,

i looked it over and with it being a 94 Pin 65 is actually Pin 27. 94 only had a 60-Pin harness. anyways, his problem is 5.0v on that wire with the DPFE connector disconnected which brings me to the conclusion that that wire is shorted to VREF or the computer is shorted. The wire from Pin 26 (VREF) which should have VREF of 5.0v has 0.2v but that same wire at the TPS has 5.0v. yet when he did an Ohms test between the TPS and the DPFE on the VREF wire it showed 0.0 Ohms.

Franz,
when you did the Ohms check from the ECM pin 27 (BR/LG) to the DPFE sensor did you check between Pin 26 and Pin 27 on the connector?? just to make sure the wires aren't shorted together. also, check Ohms between Pin 26 and Pin 27 on the ECM (be sure to use a digital meter).

Today i found the problem, the harness was not connected properly. I guess it was my fault, but as i tried the aftermarket DPFE i had the same code and it didn't work, but now code 327 is gone!?

Check engine light is still on, i get code 214 in continues memory, i got it before too, but i didn't start checking the sensors yet, that's a new file.

Thanks for your help cjones101812,
Franz

 

[cjones101812]

good to hear 327 is gone

 

[boggs1227]

code 214 ....cylinder indentification signal...... i belive this is your "camshaft postion sensor " located under the lower intake manifold near the back of the engine .don't know if can reach the wires good enough to test this one because i think to get to the sensor you have to remove all of the intake system to get to it ...maybe wrong tho so don't quote me .

i would try to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and see if the code does not clear ,if that don't work then see when the battery is connected to clear the code from the computer .i used my actron code reader to clear the stored codes in the pcm ( theres a way to do it on the reader ) but not sure how to do it manually ,you may have to read up on that one ....anyways it just may have been a false code but still it's setting off the cel light ,may just be as simple as clearing the pcm to be all good since you fixed your dpfe problem.

 

[94xlt4WD]

camshaft position sensor 94 explorer 4.0L V6 Pushrod

code 214 ....cylinder indentification signal...... i belive this is your "camshaft postion sensor " located under the lower intake manifold near the back of the engine .don't know if can reach the wires good enough to test this one because i think to get to the sensor you have to remove all of the intake system to get to it ...maybe wrong tho so don't quote me .

i would try to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and see if the code does not clear ,if that don't work then see when the battery is connected to clear the code from the computer .i used my actron code reader to clear the stored codes in the pcm ( theres a way to do it on the reader ) but not sure how to do it manually ,you may have to read up on that one ....anyways it just may have been a false code but still it's setting off the cel light ,may just be as simple as clearing the pcm to be all good since you fixed your dpfe problem.

i think i don't have an camshaft position sensor, if i'am wrong please tell me.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0d/3a/43/0900823d800d3a43/repairInfoPages.htm
they say: "1991-93 2.3L and 1991-95 4.0L (VIN X) engines did not use CMP sensors." Vin X means pushrod engine, i have a 94 4.0L V6 pushrod engine!?
any ideas
Franz

 

[cjones101812]

it's called a Cylinder ID sensor (CID).

the first step, since it runs, is to do as Boggs said and clear the code and see if comes back.

 

[Masterd]

I believe the 94s did come with a CMP sensor.

 

[cjones101812]

on California emission models with Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection (SEFI) they have a CID or CMP same thing different name. some parts stores call it different names.

on Federal emission models with Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) uses only a CKP.

i don't know about Canadian emissions.

 

[mauser1111]

94 ford same problem

Ive got a 94 sport also with the same identical problem. i replaced the back pressure sensor and the solenoid with no good luck. Im convinced ford did this on purpose. Any way i just took the cel light bulb out so i dont even have to look at it. That was the easy free fix.

 

[mikeinri]

Well, the only problem with that is, if you get an actual problem, you won't know it (other than the truck may be running worse, using more fuel, etc.).

There are other potential things to fix other than just part-swapping the DPFE, although that usually is the culprit, but not always.

Mike