Cold weather shuddering

[jayhawkexplorer]

The last couple days, its been in the twenties here and my truck is worrying me. Its been through two winters without a problem for me so far and in harsher conditions, as it was parked outside in apartment complex lots both years. This year, its at least in a carport so things should technically be a little easier on it. It starts alright, but once its in D the whole driveline shudders at low speeds when its first getting going. It does fine once its moving, but even after driving it for 15 mins and getting the whole thing up to operating temp, it shudders at idle at stoplights. It seems to do it less when I take it out of D and put it in N, which makes me think I have a tranny issue.

I've only got 1,000 miles on my used car warranty left, so its going in soon for a full check-up. With this latest problem, I'm going to have them do the most comprehensive check they can on the tranny, short of removing it. Any ideas what the problem I'm having could be?

Thanks.

 

[wpurple]

I question whether it is the tranny or not. You say it is less when you go into N from D at a stop light...if it was the tranny I would suspect the torque converter although the use of Mercon V suppose to stop the shudder.

If you get on it from a stop, does it do it? When you say it stops when you get going, at what speed, wondering whether your shudder goes away once the torque converter locks up....

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

I question whether it is the tranny or not. You say it is less when you go into N from D at a stop light...if it was the tranny I would suspect the torque converter although the use of Mercon V suppose to stop the shudder.

If you get on it from a stop, does it do it? When you say it stops when you get going, at what speed, wondering whether your shudder goes away once the torque converter locks up....

Hmmm...torque converter is an interesting idea. It goes away pretty quick, I'd say about 15 mph and out of 1st gear. Anybody else have input on this idea or others?

 

[wpurple]

The torque converter doesn't lock up until you have reached 3rd gear, not to say that it still can't be the torque converter.

Does it do it in reverse?

 

[Turdle]

The torque converter doesn't lock up until you have reached 3rd gear, not to say that it still can't be the torque converter.

Does it do it in reverse?

My t/c will lock at 30 mph, right after hitting 3rd
Could it be the engine stumbling, does it idle too low in D, May be an iac issue

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

My t/c will lock at 30 mph, right after hitting 3rd
Could it be the engine stumbling, does it idle too low in D, May be an iac issue

I went out at lunch and drove it again. It does not do it in R, but it does do at in P, as well as at stops with my foot on the brake in D. It lessens in N, but it is still there. The shuddering goes away by 15 mph.

The IAC is 4 months old, so I'd rule that out, though I suppose I could have gotten a bad one.

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

I went out at lunch and drove it again. It does not do it in R, but it does do at in P, as well as at stops with my foot on the brake in D. It lessens in N, but it is still there. The shuddering goes away by 15 mph.

The IAC is 4 months old, so I'd rule that out, though I suppose I could have gotten a bad one.

It did it in Reverse this morning, as well as drive. The entire truck vibrates until I reach 15 mph. It did it the first 3 times I stopped and then accelerated again.

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

Well on the way home today it threw a CEL and I went to AutoZone and got P0304, which is a cylinder #4 misfire. I'm going to go and see if the plug wire looks ok but beyond that, its too dang cold and I don't know enough to work on it. Its going to Ford in the morning...glad I've still got my used car warranty.

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

Things keep getting worse; the dealer just called me and told me that cylinder #4 has low compression. I would think that should be covered under warranty, but what would I be looking at for a cost for repairing this?

I know everybody says switching to full synthetic is perfectly fine, but I can't help wondering if switching at 95,000 miles has something to do with it.

 

[Turdle]

Things keep getting worse; the dealer just called me and told me that cylinder #4 has low compression. I would think that should be covered under warranty, but what would I be looking at for a cost for repairing this?

I know everybody says switching to full synthetic is perfectly fine, but I can't help wondering if switching at 95,000 miles has something to do with it.

I wouldn't think it would have anything to to with it,
There are a number of things that can contribute to compression loss,
For instance if #4 fuel injector was a little clogged, # 4 might run lean, causing a burned valve or seat,
Maybe a leaking head gasket
Possibly a broken ring
cracked head

Since this happened with the cold setting in, I'd bet a buck it's head or head gasket related
I just noticed you have an ohv, possible collapsed lifter, broken intake rocker, broken or weak valve spring
any of these things can happen whenever, unfortunately
What kind of antifreeze do you use?
Also, can I ask, Is the diagnosing shop also the dealer that carries your warranty ( are they offering standard 50 percent of cost warranty? )They may just be trying to give you a real high estimate to cover their A$$. Remember they are there to make money from you, not do you a service

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

I wouldn't think it would have anything to to with it,
There are a number of things that can contribute to compression loss,
For instance if #4 fuel injector was a little clogged, # 4 might run lean, causing a burned valve or seat,
Maybe a leaking head gasket
Possibly a broken ring
cracked head

Since this happened with the cold setting in, I'd bet a buck it's head or head gasket related
I just noticed you have an ohv, possible collapsed lifter, broken intake rocker, broken or weak valve spring
any of these things can happen whenever, unfortunately
What kind of antifreeze do you use?
Also, can I ask, Is the diagnosing shop also the dealer that carries your warranty ( are they offering standard 50 percent of cost warranty? )They may just be trying to give you a real high estimate to cover their A$$. Remember they are there to make money from you, not do you a service

I just flushed/refilled the antifreeze about 3 weeks ago; its refilled with O'Reilly Auto Parts brand long life antifreeze.

The warranty is from an independent company; it was sold to me by the Toyota dealership in WI where I got the truck used. Its getting fixed by a Ford dealer here in KC, so there's no connection between the warranty people and the dealer.

Thanks for the reply, just glad it happened now and not 1,600 miles down the road when my warranty was gone.

 

[hunterdan]

Sounds like just a bad plug. I had something similar happen to me last year, though it never threw a code. It happened just after I did a tuneup. Upon startup in cold weather, usually the first start of the day, it wouldrun real rough, so I kept my foot on the gas to run it 2k rpms until the shudder went away, usually 30 seconds max. Then this summer the sparkplug completely died on the turnpike do 75 mph. Felt like a wheel fell off. Found a local parts store and bought 6 new plugs and put them in and it was fixed. The #6? the cylinder on the passenger side, closest the the firewall, the electrode of the sparkplug was worn away. It was well worn so it happened just after I did the tuneup, I must have gotten a faulty plug. So, I would pull the plugs and check them, especially if they haven't been replaced lately.

Dan

Well on the way home today it threw a CEL and I went to AutoZone and got P0304, which is a cylinder #4 misfire. I'm going to go and see if the plug wire looks ok but beyond that, its too dang cold and I don't know enough to work on it. Its going to Ford in the morning...glad I've still got my used car warranty.

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

Sounds like just a bad plug. I had something similar happen to me last year, though it never threw a code. It happened just after I did a tuneup. Upon startup in cold weather, usually the first start of the day, it wouldrun real rough, so I kept my foot on the gas to run it 2k rpms until the shudder went away, usually 30 seconds max. Then this summer the sparkplug completely died on the turnpike do 75 mph. Felt like a wheel fell off. Found a local parts store and bought 6 new plugs and put them in and it was fixed. The #6? the cylinder on the passenger side, closest the the firewall, the electrode of the sparkplug was worn away. It was well worn so it happened just after I did the tuneup, I must have gotten a faulty plug. So, I would pull the plugs and check them, especially if they haven't been replaced lately.

Dan

The dealer's tearing into the motor now, I would hope they'd think to check the plugs before taking it apart. As long as the warranty company covers it, fine with me.

 

[Turdle]

Sounds like just a bad plug.

Ummm, I think a compression test would rule out a spark plug,
Although a bad ring could cause it to foul

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

Sounds like just a bad plug. I had something similar happen to me last year, though it never threw a code. It happened just after I did a tuneup. Upon startup in cold weather, usually the first start of the day, it wouldrun real rough, so I kept my foot on the gas to run it 2k rpms until the shudder went away, usually 30 seconds max. Then this summer the sparkplug completely died on the turnpike do 75 mph. Felt like a wheel fell off. Found a local parts store and bought 6 new plugs and put them in and it was fixed. The #6? the cylinder on the passenger side, closest the the firewall, the electrode of the sparkplug was worn away. It was well worn so it happened just after I did the tuneup, I must have gotten a faulty plug. So, I would pull the plugs and check them, especially if they haven't been replaced lately.

Dan

Well it looks like you were right hunterdan. After sitting at the dealer for 4 days (they only have 1 engine tech!), they figured out it was a cracked plug and a shorted out wire. For $170, I'm back on the road good as new. Pretty ridiculous that they only have 1 guy who's qualified to go out and pull a spark plug to check it.