Contemplating 5.0L rebuild for mild performance boost

[410Fortune]

I’m sorry but those rigged ridge hubs for the 98-99 ranger are garbage
Hold a set in your hands and you will see what I mean. They press fit on and are light duty. The two sets we had failed first time out. I currently have a 98 ranger with these installed. I will be removing them and installing 2000 explorer knuckles and run a live axle

If you want to disconnect the front axle for more power or mpg then should consider the 95-96 cad front diff and the mods needed to make it fit w the v8. Set it up to use a switch or cable and not vacuum = the hot setup. I’m planning this for my 03 trax see just how much mpg we can get from a 5 speed 4wd v8

Why not run a torque on demand 4406? We can get or create a stand alone tod controller and this case will bolt in.

The flat pans are for rwd,
Would make it easier to set the trans on the floor? I just made a simple wooden jig for my trans jack that fits the 4r pan

 

[Josh P]

We can get or create a stand alone tod controller and this case will bolt in.

I need one for my LCF truck

 

[Blown]

Too bad there isn't a better locking hub. I was also wondering about the older diff, It would be nice to set-up a manually engaged front diff to go with the 4406 manual shift T-case, more power to the ground and better mileage.

 

[Mesozoic]

I've temporarily mounted the AOD pan onto the 4R, simply to avoid damaging my fancy aluminum deep pan. The next step was to remove the t-case, but I'm finding that the service manual (PDF) I've got seem to call for removing equipment that's not present on my 5.0L Mountaineer. It looks like my t-case could be removed without any further disassembly... certainly does not seem to require removing the exhaust or any kind of crossmember since it sits further behind the main transmission member.

 

[410Fortune]

I would remove the trans crossmember just so you can gain access to the top t case bolts
Otherwise you can get them through the floor access panel

The transmission mount is attached to the center exhaust hanger via one of the trans mount bolts

The awd t case has no wires or motors or anything just two driveshafts a breather tube

 

[Mesozoic]

I would remove the trans crossmember just so you can gain access to the top t case bolts
Otherwise you can get them through the floor access panel

The transmission mount is attached to the center exhaust hanger via one of the trans mount bolts

The awd t case has no wires or motors or anything just two driveshafts a breather tube

The ultimate goal is to remove the transmission right now because it needs to get to my friend's shop for rebuild. I was planning to remove the t-case just to make it easier to remove the transmission, but now I'm thinking that perhaps I just remove the entire assembly as a unit? The t-case can't weigh that much because it's currently, literally just hanging off the tailhousing of the 4R!

I see the exhaust is definitely going to need to be removed, but wasn't clear on exactly where it can detach from. The motor will come out as well, eventually. Should I just start working on disconnecting the manifolds from the heads and maybe drop the entire forward cat assembly to make clearance for the trans removal?

 

[410Fortune]

I would disconnect the exhaust at manifolds and remove both the left and right “down pipes”
Use a torch and heat up the exhaust manifold mounting flanges and bolts to break the rust bond

You can then unbolt the Downpipes from in front of the secondary cat converters. Sometimes it is easier just to cut them and weld them back later depending on the condition of your flanges/clamps

With the Downpipes out of the way it is much much easier to get to the starter, torque converter nuts and trans bellhousing bolts

Whether you leave the t case attached or not is up to you. But you will need to drain the trans via the pan so you don’t spill a ton of atf

 

[Mesozoic]

Really appreciate the insight. I did drain the transmission completely although I'm sure there's a ton of fluid in the converter still.

I think I'll refocus my efforts on exhaust system removal at this stage since it will definitely need to come out and will make accessing everything else a lot easier as well.

Cheers!

 

[410Fortune]

Factory 5.0 converters had a drain
This is why the round soft plug on bottom of bellhousing

 

[Mesozoic]

T-case is out!

 

[Mesozoic]

The exhaust is really jammed up in there... had to throw in the towel. It's totally loose, but it's fused to the muffler end pretty bad and even if it were all loose, not sure how to rotate it out of there LOL

 

[410Fortune]

Well done!

You should just be removing the down pipes not the whole exhaust

If you have to cut bolts no harm no foul. You can order new gaskets online as well if you end up needing them

 

[Mesozoic]

Well done!

You should just be removing the down pipes not the whole exhaust

If you have to cut bolts no harm no foul. You can order new gaskets online as well if you end up needing them

Thanks. Confirming that I'm trying to remove the downpipes, for sure. I've got all the sensors out of the downpipe and have removed the bolts at the exhaust manifolds as well. The passenger side manifold connecton is especially difficult and I have no idea how I'm going to reattach the exhaust to that again... that looks particularly tough.

Anyhow, the muffler ball flange connection to the downpipe seems to be where the exhaust is stuck right now. The other tube attachment looks like it uses a welded on Torca clamp and that is full loose as well. I've removed the nuts and bolts to the ball flange clamp. Maybe it needs the heat from a torch or something to loosen up?

 

[410Fortune]

Pry bar?

You can get the two manifold to downpipe bolts on the pass side by using 3/8” ratchet and extensions w wobbly working back around the primary cat for that pipe access is not terriblenonce you get the correct angle

 

[Mesozoic]

Totally unable to remove the downpipe, so I've got a buddy with real skills that's planning to come over and help. It is actually the same friend who managed to get a 6R80 shifting behind a turbo 302, but regardless he has genuinely excellent wrenching skills far beyond my abilities!

While the truck is perched on the lift, I was thinking of replacing the fuel pump with a higher flow unit. I have a Holley 190 lph pump that was intended for a 5.0L Mustang, but was replaced a long time ago for not being adequate for a high powered supercharged application. My understanding is that the pump will drop into the fuel module on the 2nd Gen - if someone can confirm this, I'll drop the tank and take care of that. Unless the OEM pump is adequate for roughly 350-400 hp.

 

[410Fortune]

Go for it install your pump. Many members here run the walbro 220 or whatever it is called. The extra fuel will simply be returned to tank at the regulator until it’s needed
Your truck uses returnless fuel and the rail pressure is 64 psi fyi

 

[Mesozoic]

I was still totally unable to remove the exhaust for some reason. I did manage to get the transmission out without removing it, however. It's at the shop for rebuild and spec'ing a Precision converter with billet lid, single Luk clutch with a stall between 2300-2800 RPM.

 

[Mesozoic]

About to come out!

 

[Mesozoic]

Now I fully understand why I do not see more of these machines modified. It is an absolute nightmare to work on! Almost every nut and bolt needed to remove the engine requires a ton of elbow grease to get to. I'm fortunate that I have a shop with pneumatic tools, but man this thing was meant to go together once and finally... never to be undone!

 

[410Fortune]

I disagree

Once you get familiar the 5.0’os far easier to work on then the 4.0

Now if you are used to muscle cars from the 60s then this sucks… however if you are used to working on newer cars and trucks since computer aided design was a thing then this one is not terrible.

Ford definitely packed things in there
There is a process to getting the engine out that can make things easier