How to: - Convert V8 AWD to BW 4406 Manual Shift- A how to thread | Page 27 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Convert V8 AWD to BW 4406 Manual Shift- A how to thread

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Does anybody know the correct thread bolt for the shifter to the linkage? I thought it was M8x1.25 but that doesn't thread in all the way. Definitely not M8x1.
 



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Take the shifter or linkage, whichever is threaded, with you to tractor supply or lowes or anywhere with bolts and try a few. Might not be metric, most are but I have found a few things that are not.
 






Meant to follow up earlier M8x1.25 was correct, I just needed to crank down a little harder. Thought I was going to strip it (this is the Dorman replacement) but all is well Threads must have been a little funky out of the box.

By the way, the part is fine except for the back plate that bolts to the transmission. Hole spacing was wrong so I swapped over the original plate..
 






View media item 53875I used switched 12v from the radio for pin 85. After the installation, the radio will stay on any time the headlights are on. I think the 4H and 4L lights must be getting power from both the headlight and the switched circuits and it's feeding pin 86, then across the electromagnet and out pin 85 to fire up the radio. Does that make sense, or am I looking at t his all wrong? If that's the case, has no one else run into this? I can use another source of power (cigarette lighter for example) but that could be worse if something's plugged in and it's getting power from the headlight circuit instead of its own fuse. Would a diode between the switched lead to the radio and pin 85 be the solution?

I can't be the only one that's run into this.
 






Just bumping this back up to the top... For those of you running the power wire for the relay from the cigarette lighter, do you not have trouble with the constant draw of the relay on the battery when the car is off? I guess that would only occur in 4 LOW, but you could certainly kill a battery if you parked it in low range.
 






Just bumping this back up to the top... For those of you running the power wire for the relay from the cigarette lighter, do you not have trouble with the constant draw of the relay on the battery when the car is off? I guess that would only occur in 4 LOW, but you could certainly kill a battery if you parked it in low range.

@fastpakr - how is power getting to the 4High indicator?
 






The lights are energized through the cluster, and then turned on when the negative side is grounded. If you look at the diagram above, that power from the cluster can flow across the bulb and the electro magnet in the relay, sending power out pin 85. Because I'm using the switched power wire on the radio to fire up the relay, it's actually feeding power from the cluster light circuit back to the radio so it can be turned on any time the headlights are switched on.
 






The lights are energized through the cluster, and then turned on when the negative side is grounded. If you look at the diagram above, that power from the cluster can flow across the bulb and the electro magnet in the relay, sending power out pin 85. Because I'm using the switched power wire on the radio to fire up the relay, it's actually feeding power from the cluster light circuit back to the radio so it can be turned on any time the headlights are switched on.

That's right...you are correct. Thanks for the clarification. (been one of those days :eek:)
 






So that leaves questions...
1) I can run it off the cigarette lighter circuit. Concerns : a) is there a chance of power draw for something plugged into the lighter going across the dash illumination circuit? b) Constant drain if truck is off and left in low range.
2) I can add an in line diode between the radio wire and the relay.
Concern : Uncharted territory. Can someone confirm that this will work?
3) Can I splice the light bulb connection to pin 85 and power the relay that way? Then it's only powered when the key or lights are on and no back feeding power to another circuit.
Concern : somebody needs to reassure me that I won't burn something up that way .
 






If your in 2wd on the TC - the circuit should be 'open' not allowing any 'slow' battery drain.

The 4High only lights up when the TC is put in that position and ground is completed. 4Low the same using the relay to switch signalling to the respective lamp.

1. You can run it off Cig Lighter...but I would prefer a switched power wire like the same used for the radio power (comes on w/ the key). If you leave in low range, yes, if you use constant (non switched) power, the light will stay on.

2. Can add the diode, but use a switched ignition power lead

3. Even if you turn on the headlights, the 4WD Hi/Low lights should not illuminate. Should be a different circuit all together. I would not take power after the light switch as they wont work unless you have lights on...what if you use your TC during the day?

Hope this helps. #3 is a bit confusing.

**Find a constant switched power for pin 85 - if the Lamps work via the ground from the switch at the TC, the lights will light up respective to position of TC via the ground it provides. The relay is used to strictly switch between the two giving a single indication - not both at the same time...
 






1) The light actually won't stay on, because there's no power going to the light itself with the key and headlights off. However, there's power going to the relay and the relay is grounded based on the 4 low position, so if it's left in low range you'd be constantly pulling the relay's magnet. I think that's around a .2 amp load?

2) If I added a diode, I'd continue using the switched lead that goes to the radio. Right now that seems like the best option.

3) I'm saying that you use the power coming down from the bulb via pin 86 and jump it across to 85. That way the relay is powered by the light's own circuit, then the magnet still closes when 86 is grounded to break the ground path from 30 to 87. Having trouble explaining that one... I think if you did that and 86 was grounded through the low range position of the switch, then the shorter path to ground would bypass the electromagnet and the relay would never actually switch. This is where I'm in over my head.
 






I didn't read all the posts but has anyone done a 4406 swap with the electronic shifter? I'm doing a swap from a 2000 Ex Limited V8 with a 4R70W tranny that I am installing in a 2002 Ex Sport with a 1354 electronic shifter and I'm wondering if all the wiring will interchange.
 






keep your gem from the v6 setup its plug and play , i had an e- shift 4406 in my v8 sport for a while , its a very tight fit but it will fit
 












I have a 4406 that has a wire coming out of the tail housing that I have been told is for TOD. I have been told that the transfer case will work fine with just shifting from 2h to 4h or 4l. I was wondering if I wired a power wire to the tod that I could get it to function if I just flipped a switch.

20180921_123117.jpg
 






that wire goes to the harness that was on the shift motor , do you have the 4406e shift motor?
 






Here's the back side of a TOD version, mine has two electrical connections coming out of the case.

PICT2299.JPG
 






The shift motor from the 1354 bolts up to the 4406. Yours look like a early 4406 with the speedo sensor in the tail housing. The 4406 in my pic has but one wire coming out and no speedo sensor hole. my speedo sensor must be in the tranny. The 4406 is out of a 2001 F150 and my tranny is out of a 2000 Explorer Limited V8.
 






The shift motor from the 1354 bolts up to the 4406. Yours look like a early 4406 with the speedo sensor in the tail housing. The 4406 in my pic has but one wire coming out and no speedo sensor hole. my speedo sensor must be in the tranny. The 4406 is out of a 2001 F150 and my tranny is out of a 2000 Explorer Limited V8.
Yes, mine is a 98 Navigator 4406, the trucks still had the VSS until 1999, a year after it ended in the Explorers. You don't need the VSS output since you have it coming from the rear diff, and ABS module.
 



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