Corroded Battery Terminal / Cable | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Thank you. Although the SSM-48123 is new, the positive cable clamp has been mentioned here several times before.

Peter
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Started in the late 1980s making a "paste" of axle grease and baking soda to
coat battery terminals on all of our vehicles.
Easy PM to prevent battery terminal corrosion from battery acid/fumes even on
"under warranty" new vehicles.
 






What are you guys using to crimp the new connector on? Looks like it would be a beast by hand.

Also does anyone know the gauge of the wire?

The acid ate threw the bottom ring of my terminal clamp and its very loose. Needs to be replaced ASAP.
 






Yours seems to make alot more sense to me, just not sure why it would be set up so differently. The corrosion was on that 3 puece connection. I cleaned it up and the car seens to be working fine now .

Yours is definitely not factory. Peter's photo in post #137 is what it should look like. The photo in post #129 is what yours likely looked like just before the alterations were made. They cut off the rotting portion of the factory clamp and bolted a jumper wire from it to a cheap aftermarket clamp.

When I bought my Sport the previous owner did the same thing but punched out the stud of the cheap aftermarket clamp (leaving a hole) and bolted it directly to what was left of the factory clamp (see post #108). The dealer that sold me the car ended up replacing the whole thing at no charge to me. Then... 3 months later it was already corroding badly.

I brought it to my independent mechanic who has seen this problem over and over said that people typically throw a new battery at it. Problem there is the computer charging system needs to be reset whenever you change the battery so the system can relearn the new battery's charging characteristics. Of course Joe Homeowner doesn't typically have a computer to do this and unfortunately, a lot of mechanics don't know this needs to be done either (apparently disconnecting the battery doesn't do the trick).

I had the clamps cleaned up, battery replaced, connections coated with sealer, and charging system reset. So far knock_on_wood_fingers_crossed... no issues.
 






You are referring to the Battery Management System (BMS). At the very least, when a new battery is installed, the vehicle should be left alone for 8 hours so that the BMS can adjust to the new battery. Unfortunately that will not erase the BMS 'memory' and that is why it should have the previous 'memory' erased through the use if either IDS or FORScan.

Peter
 






I replaced the OEM battery A few months ago on a 2016 XLT 6 cyl. To keep the battery Functional I had to clean a lot of white corrosion from the positive terminal connector every few months.
I figured it was a leaker so replaced it and find the replacement is doing the same thing.
White oxidation on the positive connector.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 






Have you tried a terminal cleaner and a terminal protector spray from the auto parts store?
 






I replaced the OEM battery A few months ago on a 2016 XLT 6 cyl. To keep the battery Functional I had to clean a lot of white corrosion from the positive terminal connector every few months.
I figured it was a leaker so replaced it and find the replacement is doing the same thing.
White oxidation on the positive connector.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
sounds like the battery is being overcharged i would start by checking the voltage at the battery while the car is running.. use a multimeter
 






I replaced the OEM battery A few months ago on a 2016 XLT 6 cyl. To keep the battery Functional I had to clean a lot of white corrosion from the positive terminal connector every few months.
I figured it was a leaker so replaced it and find the replacement is doing the same thing.
White oxidation on the positive connector.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Your thread was merged with this one found using the Search feature.

Peter
 






Have you tried a terminal cleaner and a terminal protector spray from the auto parts store?
I have cleaned, used conductive compound, felt washer, and terminal spray.

May be overcharging as another reply indicated.

Thanks
 






sounds like the battery is being overcharged i would start by checking the voltage at the battery while the car is running.. use a multimeter


With the engine cold I am reading 15 to 15.2 V across the battery. (Idle through a couple thousand RPM)
Think this is enough to cause the problem?
Also anyone know what the max voltage should be?

Thanks
 






With the engine cold I am reading 15 to 15.2 V across the battery. (Idle through a couple thousand RPM)
Think this is enough to cause the problem?
Also anyone know what the max voltage should be?

Thanks
a new battery will read around 12.6 volts without the engine running. With the engine running it should be around 14.5.. ill test my 2017 tomarrow and post results
 






a new battery will read around 12.6 volts without the engine running. With the engine running it should be around 14.5.. ill test my 2017 tomarrow and post results
What if the battery is already fully charged and the smart charging strategy only commands a 12.9v float charge while engine is running?
 






I have cleaned, used conductive compound, felt washer, and terminal spray.

May be overcharging as another reply indicated.

Thanks
I have used permatex battery protector sealer and spray for many, many years and never had any battery problems like I see reported here. If you think it may be overcharging, maybe use forscan to confirm correct battery setting and charge strategy is employed and reset/relearn the battery monitor. Or have a dealer check it out if under warranty.
 






With the engine cold I am reading 15 to 15.2 V across the battery. (Idle through a couple thousand RPM)
Think this is enough to cause the problem?
Also anyone know what the max voltage should be?

Thanks
Sorry i forgot to get back to you.. my 2017 sport has a factory 3 year old battery and is 12 volts with engine off... 13.3 volts idle
 






Hi all. A public service announcement to routine check and clean your battery terminal. I started having some weird electrical issues and slow starts so I checked the battery and the positive terminal was covered with blue corrosion. I started to clean the battery but couldn’t get the positive clamp off the post. After gently prying and trying to wiggle it loose, the entire lead battery post came out of the battery! Not sure exactly what happene, but what a mess.

Ran to Costco and grabbed a new Interstate 65R for under $100...
 






Common known issue talked about lots. Its the crappy Motorcraft batteries that cause this issue. The battery ruined itself.
 






Two replacments this year. Got almost 5 years out of a MC Max battery so I can't complain Ac delco died at 4 years, not terrible.
 






Hi all. A public service announcement to routine check and clean your battery terminal. I started having some weird electrical issues and slow starts so I checked the battery and the positive terminal was covered with blue corrosion. I started to clean the battery but couldn’t get the positive clamp off the post. After gently prying and trying to wiggle it loose, the entire lead battery post came out of the battery! Not sure exactly what happene, but what a mess.

Ran to Costco and grabbed a new Interstate 65R for under $100...
Your thread was merged with this existing one found using the 'Search' feature.

Peter
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
Looks like they should have changed the cable as well. I'm guessing the current issue is because of the affected cable. Although several members have had this issue I would not say it is a very common problem. I can't recall when I had it happen the last time with any of my vehicles. Recalls are issued only for safety related issues. Perhaps coating the parts with a dielectric grease will help,
Please complete your registration by adding the 'Required' "Trim Level" (Base, XLT, etc.) to your profile so it appears in the margin. That can be helpful info to have at times. Thanks.

Peter
My mechanic and a person at local ford dealership says it is “ notorious “ for the 3.5 l set up . MANY complaints online, along with steering failure issues..I’m done with ford!
 






Back
Top