Cranks but no start, keeps cranking in run position.

[Techschnollogy]

I'm having a strange problem that started after a long trip. During the trip, the vehicle after sitting overnight would not start, click click. Jumped the battery and finished the trip without a problem, but after leaving it overnight at home, again would not start, so I replaced the battery and now it will crank but no start and when i release the key continues to crank until the ignition is turned off.
I replaced the starter after having the old one tested (bad solenoid said autozone). New starter and battery with same result, it seems like bad ground situation and codes are as follows;

Also after clearing the codes got a P1000 code. I would like to hear some suggestion on how to proceed. No start appears to be fuel related but I had no codes or issues output prior to this trip. Also replaced drivers seat just before leaving home and dont think it's related to this no start problem. I have forscan but don't know where to start diagnosing the no start condition.
I'm looking forward to hearing from you like minded and explorer savy people. Meanwhile I'll be driving my 97 5.0 with new antique plates! Thank you all in advance for your input.

 

[Rcflyer330]

b2290 code can be ignored that was most likely from a dead battery
the u0140 code I think can cause a no start condition. check all the ground connections for corrosion and look at the wireing harness for bare or broken wires.
Are you using forscan lite (mobile app) or the windows version? reason I ask is see if you can view live data from all the modules or see if they are connected.
The cranking after the key is released is normal the engine will crank for 10 sec or so even with a short key bump.

 

[94Eddie]

I had similar problems as you where the it would crank but wouldn't start. Especially when the engine was cold. The fix turned out to be replacing the spark plugs which were the originals with 120k miles on them. It turned out that the center electrode was so worn that the gap on the plugs was twice the spec. This in turn caused the engine to flood due to the fuel not being consistently ignited. This may, or may not, be the case for you since the plugs for the 2006-2008 V8 models are different than the 2009-2010 V8 models but it is worth checking if your plugs have a lot of miles on them. Be careful changing your plugs if they are the factory originals. They have a tendency to break off leaving the electrode end of the plug in the head. I also had the sticking ignition issue. I replaced the ignition switch and key tumbler in the steering column and this solved the problem. Lastly, the P1000 code is due to clearing the codes and will go away once the vehicle has gone through a drive cycle and has been driven around 100 miles. This code is to let emissions inspectors know the codes have recently been cleared.