"Custom" Driveshaft for a 4406 and 4" Superlift on the Cheap

[MountaineerGreen]

I did this some time back now, but it was buried 4 pages deep in another thread here.

I am going to copy most of the information here so others can find it.

Now that AMMO_HOOAH is getting a 4" Superlift and has a 4406, maybe others will get on the ball and do the mod too.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Got the DS for the 96 sport to use the flange for my t case.

Found in the pile o driveshafts a perfect length front driveshaft for a Heep Grand Cherokee. The U joints are the same and it has a stock double cardan, but it uses a different style to connect to the t case

I am going to transplant the flanged double cardan from the Explorer driveshaft to the heep driveshaft. No need to get it shortened and it should work. I got both shafts for $81, so I should have a perfect front d shaft for not much cash. And as a bonus the heep front d shaft diff yoke is the same as my D35, so I don't need a conversion u joint.

From the top down:
Stock AWD D shaft
F150 D shaft cut down a little bit
Jeep front d shaft
Explorer Rear d shaft

End shots same order just sideways - notice the jeep shaft has a different connection for the T case

Yoke Comparisons: Left to right

Jeep
Stock D Shaft
F150 shaft with conversion joint

Ford D shaft some what taken apart

Ford flanged piece

Jeep double cardan

U joints- AZ only had these three. The brute force went in the middle u joint because it is impossible to get a grease gun in there anyway. The other two have zurks.

Completed Double cardan

Completed D shaft

Comparison shot- the DC driveshaft is about 1/4" longer than my cut down F150 shaft. It just barely fits between the diff and T Case, but it is not bottomed out.

Last picture- bolted up rear angle

I am running 3 of the stock size u joints for my truck on a Jeep Grand Cherokee front D shaft with the double cardan from a Ford explorer sport.

No cutting or welding. Just a bunch of damn rusty u joints and 3 new ones. I took pictures but wont be able to upload them until tonight.

I took it on a road trip and no noise at all. At certain speeds a very small vibration in the floor, I suspect that is from the weights I left on the driveshaft. Now that everything is different, I don't need them.

The only people that need this are those with the 4406 AND a suspension lift. If you dont have any suspension lift a stock F150 driveshaft with a conversion u joint will work.

 

[Turdle]

The one in the middle (second to last pic)looks familiar--

 

[MountaineerGreen]

This one?

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

Very good info. I just wish I still had my front double cordon shaft.

 

['97 V8]

Very good info. I just wish I still had my front double cordon shaft.

I still have mine if you want to buy it.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

What double cardan driveshaft?

 

['97 V8]

the 96-97 v8's had double cardan driveshafts in the front.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Ohh.

 

[Turdle]

the 96-97 v8's had double cardan driveshafts in the front.

Serious?
I could swear Dans is a cv style--

 

[MountaineerGreen]

His is, he bought my stock DS some time back.

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

Serious?
I could swear Dans is a cv style--

I can't remember where the change happened, but some 95-97 had CV, and some had DC style. I'm not sure what I would have to do to make that fit.... I don't think the flange will bolt up to the 4406.

 

['97 V8]

the flanhe WILL NOT bolt up to the t-case sadly. THe 96-up until mid 97's(i'm sorry) had dc driveshafts. WHen the P headed expo's and mounty's came, they went to CV's.

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

the flanhe WILL NOT bolt up to the t-case sadly. THe 96-up until mid 97's(i'm sorry) had dc driveshafts. WHen the P headed expo's and mounty's came, they went to CV's.

LOL, in a little hurry there : That's what I figured with the stocker. I'm wondering if I could shim the rear mount point on the diff to get it to rotate down more, but well see what happens when I get the kit on.

 

['97 V8]

I spilled coke on my laptop keyboard...on the left side. My keys tend to stick.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

the flanhe WILL NOT bolt up to the t-case sadly. THe 96-up until mid 97's(i'm sorry) had dc driveshafts. WHen the P headed expo's and mounty's came, they went to CV's.

Mine is a non P head & has a CV. The build date on mine is 12/96

 

['97 V8]

odd. You do know what that means though.....my mounty is older than yoooooourrrs neeeener neeener neeeeeeeeeener.

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

I'm thinking about using washers and a longer bolt on the rear mount for the diff to see if I can get it twisted down far enough to not need a DC shaft. If any of you guys foresee any issues don't hesitate to speak up.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks Evan for the link to here, I had read this back then, but forgot the details.

Does the old Explorer DC front shaft have the same flange as the BW4406? I would think that it would be too small. I have my old 93 Explorer front shaft somewhere, I need to check its flange to see if it is just like the one which you used. My custom AWD shaft has the same front u-joint, no special part required either. Regards,

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I think a first gen driveshaft front double cardan driveshaft may bolt right in. I actually have one of those at my shop, I need to measure it vs. the driveshaft I have now. I think the flange will work- I know the sport rear driveshaft flange bolts up.