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CV Axle Replacement How To (Pictures)

OutofDate1980

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when replacing the cv, should I be concerned with any fluid or lube?

My Ford Shop Manual doesn't mention any lubrication when installing.

My Haynes manual said to coat the differential seal lips with multipurpose grease.

Another poster, http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12208 mentions ‘spread a 1/8 bead' of high-temp grease on the 'seal lips' on the excluder seal.

I plan to do both, can't see how it could hurt anything, but I'll use synthetic grease because of the rubber/plastic.
 


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OutofDate1980

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Axle nuts

Check the thread size and pitch. Some axles have different threads than others. Don't use nuts from differing axles unless they do have the same threads.

If the new nut matches its axle, I'd use it, and save the old nut and washer. Yes the Ford nuts and hardware are usually better quality than the parts store stuff. I have reused the old nut before too, use red loctite if you do.

Axle nuts (old & new) & axle threads measure 2.0. Threaded the old nut on axle by hand till outer face on nut was flush with end of axle with no problem.
 




OutofDate1980

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CV shaft wire snap ring

Good call on that, the other side went in fine no prob, this one was ridiculous. I finally (after reshaping the snap ring to fit better) was able to line up the CV shaft, hold it level and take a dead blow hammer to the free end. This was exactly what was needed, took all of about 10 sec worth of time after literally days and thousands of those 4 letter words later.

I'm having the same problem with snap ring. Is there a tool to reshape the ring ? It appears the gap is too large causing it to be to loose around the shaft, thus not letting the shaft to snap into the differential.

Edit: Alas, used snap ring from old CV axle, axle snapped right in. I can't see how the GPS CV axles from AA with it's over sized snap ring could ever fit into the differential.
 




SparkyGT

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good tips guys, im going to have to do this soon on mine
 








MountaineerGreen

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I cut the CV axle at the wheel end as close to the stub as I could after removing the boot. The axle housing end slips out after removing the boot. I used a chop saw to cut the shaft.
 








Yankeesfan

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Just did this today! It was very easy thanks to this write-up!!
 




gfestian

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Adding to the conversation...

2002 Explorer Limited

Pried loose the upper and lower ball joints, pivoted this out on the tie rod end and supported. Looks like Ford swapped out the pinch bolt upper for a straight nut on the later model.

Re-inserting the new CV axle, I had to jack up the other side and have a helper (for the cost of a beer) move the opposite tire back and forth to get the tines inside the differential to align with the spindle end. 20 seconds of back and forth and it slid right in.

One comment on separating the spindle from the wheel bearing hub (for the later models). If its seized up pretty well, you can rent a tool to that bolts on to the lugs and presses the spindle out.

Don't forget anti-seize on the hub end spindle!


Thank you to the original author, great writeup.
 




theborger

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Thanks for the writeup, wanted you to know this gave me the confidence to do it myself. Wish me luck, starting Saturday.
 




SparkyGT

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can those dust excluder seals that go on the outer end of the CV axle be re-used or do you replace them, the dealership here doesnthave them, so it may take a bit to get some
 




OutofDate1980

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can those dust excluder seals that go on the outer end of the CV axle be re-used or do you replace them, the dealership here doesnthave them, so it may take a bit to get some

I reused one of mine, but replaced the other from the dealer. Try fordparts.com to see if they carry them.
 




SparkyGT

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i just cleaned mine and siliconed where theere was a small tear, so they should be ok, thanks
 




wiz929

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thank you so much took me 2hr top and i was done with the removal and installing with help of your guide
 




davemengel

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So I'm deep into replacing my cv axle but i cannot separate the cv axle from the inner half shaft...as I pull the cv it pulls the half shaft out...Any tips?
 




CDW6212R

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Take it all out and pull the inner shaft off later. It just has a tight snap ring on it.
 




barbaroja

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Per my invoice:
The Spindle/Knuckle metal flange that is pressed-in is called:
Seal Asy-Oil, P/N: F57Z-1S190-AA, cost me 15.32+tax.

The CV outer hub seal, rubber w/inside metal ring is call:
Shield - Dust, P/N: YL2Z*3K070*AA, cost me 32.42+tax.

I purchased from local Ford dealer, CDW6212R recommends http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213668

So, in order to replace the excluder seals, would I have to replace Seal Asy-Oil, P/N: F57Z-1S190-AA too?

The tech doc from Ford does not state that clearly.
 




Thallarsen

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Yesterday, the driver's side CV gave me clear warning that its days were numbered. I'll take a warning anyday. A metallic rat-a-tat when backing up & turning. Not the park-the-car-until-fixed kind of warning, but the better get to it in the next 200 miles kind.
Ran to NAPA. Rebuilt axle w/lifetime warranty in stock for less than $50.
Got home and less than an hour later, all done.

Did I mention that I've got 250k on this truck. Original everything: exhaust, muffler, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, a/c, engine trans, etc.
Runs like new, 21 mpg on the highway, doesn't leak or burn oil, doesn't leak coolant..etc.
This truck is pennies per mile to operate. It's durability and efficiency can go toe to toe with any Toyota any day.
I'm keeping my Exploder.
Thanks for the writeup, BTW.
 




jbowden718

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I just want to say "thank you so much" for the great write up. I went to tune up my '99 Explorer SOHC that has 135K miles on it this past weekend due to he unseasonable warm Winter we're having here in NY. So since you have to go through the wheel well to get at the plugs I took the passenger side wheel off and surprise surprise...there's axle grease everywhere. The outer sleeve of my CV axle was cracked bad. As opposed to wasting my time and money on a boot sleeve for $20 and the prospect of it failing in the near future, I spent $60 on a remanufactured CV axle at Autozone and after a couple of hours done. The step by step pictures were great. The only problem I ran into was with reassembling the castle nut which kept spinning as I tried to retigthen it. I read elsewhere to lift the rubber skirt up on the ball joint and grab it with a pair of vise gripes. I did and that was it. I guess doing the tune up by myself was a good idea afterall. I put a new CV axle in and while I was at it, I threw in new sway bar kits to replace the ones that were rotted. Thanks again. The wealth of knowledge here is amazing. I also own a Hyundai Sonata and belong to the Hyundai forum. It's nowhere as good as this site.
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

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bluestream1

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Does anyone have the part number for the drivers side differential oil seal? My parts guy says they are no longer available, and mine is now leaking..
 




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