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CV Axle Replacement How To (Pictures)



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bluestream1

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Thanks Green...Are those the seals that go into the diffy, or the ones that go behind the hub bearing??

Were you referring to the National parts (Part# 710428 & 710429) or the Motorcraft BRS10?

My research shows a Motorcraft BRS10 interchanges with a Ford FOZZ1S190A and a National 9150S
 








jbowden718

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"Were you referring to the National parts (Part# 710428 & 710429)"

Timken seals use the same part numbers for Right and Left seals. When I replaced both my CV axles a couple of weeks ago I used those seals. I bought them from partsgeek.com since they were much cheaper than Autozone.
 




jremington59

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Let me ask a question. If you lose the fluid out of the front diff, how do you put it back in. Isn't the front a sealed unit?
 




bluestream1

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Let me ask a question. If you lose the fluid out of the front diff, how do you put it back in. Isn't the front a sealed unit?

Take the left side wheel off. It has a fill plug right behind where the output shaft is....(mine is a little rusty)

ATTACH]
 




jremington59

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Thx for the info. I didn't know that. Do you know what size the plug is?
 




bluestream1

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Thx for the info. I didn't know that. Do you know what size the plug is?

As I recall a 3/8 socket extension will fit right in. (same as transfer case)
 




jremington59

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I just replaced my lower ball joints and put on new hubs. I didn't realize how inexpensive new cv's are. Out of curiosity, how do you know if the cv shaft is worn?
 




jremington59

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Well I replaced the passenger side today and while popping out the old cv. the shaft from inside the differential came with it. I slid the inside one back in until I felt it grab onto the spline and put it back together with the new cv shaft.
 




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vanousg

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I dont really want to appear dumb here but will this same method work on a 1995 ford explorer xlt 4x4
 




CDW6212R

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I dont really want to appear dumb here but will this same method work on a 1995 ford explorer xlt 4x4

Yes, the axle procedure is the same for 95-01 Explorers, AWD and 4WD. The 95/96 had different front diff's, but the axles swap the same way.
 




sehaare

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Ok, did the passenger side last night and it went smoothly (easier than I had expected) This morning I started doing the drivers side, got the old axle out, it was a little tougher due to the longer inner shaft. When I tried to put the new axle into the transfer case the first time it did not go all the way in. Pulled it back out and it looked like it had stopped when it got to the snap ring. So tired again and use a little more force and it went further in but now it is stuck half way in. I've disconnected the tie rod, sway bar link and shock and pulled everything out of the way to get at it and still it won't budge

When I turn the Axle the drive shaft turns so it must be engaged at least some what.

I'm wondering if the snap ring has now compressed and I just need to force it in further to seat it, or if something has screwed up and I should pull it back out.

It was a new shaft, I've saw on the tread that some people were having issues on remanufactured shafts having too large of snap ring, but this was a new shaft from cardone and I didn't see anyone posting any issues with one of those.

So how much force should it have taken to get the axle to seat into the transfer case?


I probably should pull the axle to make sure nothing is messed up inside the transfer case - I read somewhere about an axle puller tool - has anyone used one of those and where did you get it from?

Any other suggestions?


EDITED FOR UPDATE If you are going to do the Drivers side you should read my thread here before you start.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367789
 




vanousg

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Yes, the axle procedure is the same for 95-01 Explorers, AWD and 4WD. The 95/96 had different front diff's, but the axles swap the same way.

Thank you very much for giving me a heads up on this, I hope you have a great day
 




autostudent

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so I just replaced the drivers side cv axle on my girlfriends 1998 Mercury Mountaineeer after seeing that both cv joint boots were ripped completely in half and things went relatively smoothly. Upon driving it next I could hear a squealing sound. I didnt notice any fluid coming from the diff when removing the half shaft. Is it more likely that this is caused my low differential fluid or something else?
 




kk430

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so I just replaced the drivers side cv axle on my girlfriends 1998 Mercury Mountaineeer after seeing that both cv joint boots were ripped completely in half and things went relatively smoothly. Upon driving it next I could hear a squealing sound. I didnt notice any fluid coming from the diff when removing the half shaft. Is it more likely that this is caused my low differential fluid or something else?

Probably not, that would be more whine than squeal. But fill it and see if the noise goes away. It needs to be done anyway.
 




Starkman

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Hey guys, have the drivers shaft out and the "new" axle from Autozone is different. Any concerns?

Autozone%20axle%20Drivers-M.jpg


The tripoid is much smaller...
 




Turdle

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Hey guys, have the drivers shaft out and the "new" axle from Autozone is different. Any concerns?

Autozone%20axle%20Drivers-M.jpg


The tripoid is much smaller...

Check for premature droop binding. Not kidding one bit. If the tire will rotate while the truck is jacked up and wheel free hanging, that is ok, but if it binds--un uh. Unfortunately you need to complete the install, excepting the brakes- to check.
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

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Starkman

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Check for premature droop binding. Not kidding one bit. If the tire will rotate while the truck is jacked up and wheel free hanging, that is ok, but if it binds--un uh. Unfortunately you need to complete the install, excepting the brakes- to check.

Just installed, lowered to full droop and they bind! Jack up about 1" and free. NO GOOD! Took it out and returning. Interesting side note. Remanufactured axles from Autozone are only something like $10 cheaper but there is a $100 core charge for the passinger side. Must be a shortage...
 




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