CV Axle Replacement How To (Pictures)

[1998rollover]

The ring is on the outside/end of the splined shaft that pokes into the diff. I had no problems taking them out, just a quick pop with a BFS (Big eFfing Screwdriver) and the new ones popped in easy, after I swapped the old ring onto the one.

 

[300k+ trev]

The ring is on the outside/end of the splined shaft that pokes into the diff. I had no problems taking them out, just a quick pop with a BFS (Big eFfing Screwdriver) and the new ones popped in easy, after I swapped the old ring onto the one.

Hmm, my new one didn't come with a new spline that fits into the diff, so that's still the old one. What I'm experiencing right now is I tried to pull out the axle to see if I could realign it and push it back on, but the spline that goes into the diff was coming out with it.. I was able to pry that off and get the axle out. Now I'm thinking maybe the spline isn't going all the way into the diff.. I'll post a picture in a second

 

[300k+ trev]

The ring is on the outside/end of the splined shaft that pokes into the diff. I had no problems taking them out, just a quick pop with a BFS (Big eFfing Screwdriver) and the new ones popped in easy, after I swapped the old ring onto the one.

Should it be sticking out this much?

 

[CDW6212R]

Should it be sticking out this much?

View attachment 167356

No, that inner shaft has to go in until it is in the outer bearing, which is visible in your picture. Remove it and see that the bearings(tiny rollers) seem okay. Then slowly lift the shaft back in, supporting the weight completely as you fish it straight in. The end has to engage the differential splines, and that outer bearing surface has to slip into the outer bearing.

You basically didn't lift up on the shaft end enough to get it into the bearing. No big deal, easy process.

 

[300k+ trev]

No, that inner shaft has to go in until it is in the outer bearing, which is visible in your picture. Remove it and see that the bearings(tiny rollers) seem okay. Then slowly lift the shaft back in, supporting the weight completely as you fish it straight in. The end has to engage the differential splines, and that outer bearing surface has to slip into the outer bearing.

You basically didn't lift up on the shaft end enough to get it into the bearing. No big deal, easy process.

Thank you very much!! I'll rip it all apart again today and see what I can figure out today! I'll keep everyone updated!

 

[300k+ trev]

No, that inner shaft has to go in until it is in the outer bearing, which is visible in your picture. Remove it and see that the bearings(tiny rollers) seem okay. Then slowly lift the shaft back in, supporting the weight completely as you fish it straight in. The end has to engage the differential splines, and that outer bearing surface has to slip into the outer bearing.

You basically didn't lift up on the shaft end enough to get it into the bearing. No big deal, easy process.

It's weird because I took it out to test it last night and it drives good in a straight line (only went up to about 55) and turns at a slower speed. But if I go about 55-60 into a slight right it starts shaking violently on the passenger side as if the tire is about to fall off. But if I turn to the left it doesn't do that at all

 

[CDW6212R]

I doubt the axle etc, would go together enough if the inner shaft wasn't fully seated. If it wasn't in right, and riven, there would be signs visible on that inner shaft from not being in the outer bearing right. So that shaking hopefully is something else. The outer hubs should be about 225lbft tight, much more than a lugnut tight. With a breaker bar that's about as tight as you can get it, just less than that.

Have both hubs been out or replaced recently? If not I'd wonder about the other one, plus the tie rod ends. How old are the four TRE's?

 

[300k+ trev]

I doubt the axle etc, would go together enough if the inner shaft wasn't fully seated. If it wasn't in right, and riven, there would be signs visible on that inner shaft from not being in the outer bearing right. So that shaking hopefully is something else. The outer hubs should be about 225lbft tight, much more than a lugnut tight. With a breaker bar that's about as tight as you can get it, just less than that.

Have both hubs been out or replaced recently? If not I'd wonder about the other one, plus the tie rod ends. How old are the four TRE's?

Yeah that inner shaft seems as if it was in all the way, couldn't get it to go in any further, and it wouldn't rotate as if it were seated in the splines..
I just replaced that passenger side hub because the bearing was going out. (Had a bad growling/vibration/humming, got worse the faster I went and would go away if turned so the load was on the driver side bearing)
If that inner shaft wasn't in all the way would it still drive straight perfectly fine? (I haven't gone over 55mph yet)
And the TRE looks great, took the passenger side one out when I was getting the CV axle out and it seems great. I've had it for about 5 years now driven about 60k so far and haven't had to replace anything.
Really appreciate the quick responses by the way!

 

[CDW6212R]

The TRE's are not that hard to test, there should be no real movement when you by hand turn a tire left or right, tire off the ground. A large Channel lock is good to check outer TRE's just gentle squeeze the joint. If it compresses at all, there is too much wear in the joint. The inners you have to check carefully by movement of each wheel/tire while watching the other side not move etc. I had one bad inner TRE last month when replacing a right axle seal. I checked it just before putting the tires back on the ground, and I noticed a little movement of the left side while the other didn't move.

If you had a TRE causing the shaking, it should be a very bad to cause that, very obvious moving each wheel in testing.

 

[CDW6212R]

The inner axle shaft engages that outer bearing by a good 3/4", it would be very far out if it didn't get onto the bearing. I'd bet that shaft was in when you drove it yesterday. The shaking is probably unrelated to axle or hub unless something was damaged and unseen there. I'd suspect the left hub or BJ's, but check it all over, look for any looseness in ball joints, the TRE's, axle boot torn etc. How is the tire wear, that goes bad fast with bad BJ's?

 

[300k+ trev]

The inner axle shaft engages that outer bearing by a good 3/4", it would be very far out if it didn't get onto the bearing. I'd bet that shaft was in when you drove it yesterday. The shaking is probably unrelated to axle or hub unless something was damaged and unseen there. I'd suspect the left hub or BJ's, but check it all over, look for any looseness in ball joints, the TRE's, axle boot torn etc. How is the tire wear, that goes bad fast with bad BJ's?

When I took the TRE out, I noticed I could twist it a little by hand the whole shaft would twist, not just the TRE. With both fronts off the ground the only play in them is them moving together whole moving at the 9&3 position. One doesn't move on it's own. BJ's looks good as well, inspected those as I was under it last night. I think I'm going to bring it to our local suspension shop to have them inspect now, I've spent the last 4 days working on it lol

 

[300k+ trev]

Also to mention, I didn't have the really bad shake like I do now before I replaced the passenger hub. That's why I thought it was the CV axle because the axle got stuck to the splines on the hub and I think I had pulled too hard when I was pulling the bad hub out because the axle was coming with it. Once I got the new hub in that's when I noticed the really bad shaking

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds like a good idea. A trusted alignment shop should be able to find any suspension issues. If they don't find anything, then you wonder about things like the other hub or an axle. Most of those a careful inspection can check out. Good luck,

 

[300k+ trev]

Than

That sounds like a good idea. A trusted alignment shop should be able to find any suspension issues. If they don't find anything, then you wonder about things like the other hub or an axle. Most of those a careful inspection can check out. Good luck,

Yeah that's what I'm thinking as well. I'm really thinking it's not something on the driver side because when it does shake, it only feels like the passenger side shakes. I'll keep the thread updated with what they find
Thanks again!

 

[300k+ trev]

That sounds like a good idea. A trusted alignment shop should be able to find any suspension issues. If they don't find anything, then you wonder about things like the other hub or an axle. Most of those a careful inspection can check out. Good luck,

Alright took it in early today. Turns out my used passenger tire I got was also separating. Along with my rear tires being very worn, went and grabbed 3 used tires and a lot of the noise/feel went away. Still rough over 60/65mph haven't driven faster than that. Shop did a full test drive and inspection for free. They said the CV axle I replaced is in perfectly, I may have gotten a bad wheel hub though. So I'll have to replace that again. And also my rear driver side wheel bearing is shot as well causing a lot of growling. But all other suspension components and very tight and sturdy so there's nothing else it could be

 

[300k+ trev]

That sounds like a good idea. A trusted alignment shop should be able to find any suspension issues. If they don't find anything, then you wonder about things like the other hub or an axle. Most of those a careful inspection can check out. Good luck,

Another question, is taking the rear wheel bearing out very similar to the front? My rear one has a cover over where the "axle nut" would be on the front. Can't seem to find any videos on YouTube on it at all only 2002 and newer. (Mines a 2000) did find a post on here about the rear axle wheel bearing where you take the diff cover off and the axle shaft slides out and you pull just the bearings out. I thought it would be similar to the front where you can replace the whole hub that the bearing is in. Any light on this please?

 

[1998rollover]

If you have AWD you don't want to run mis-matched tires. That's how you ruin the viscous coupling in the transfer case.

 

[koda2000]

"cover over the center of the rear axles where the axle nut would be" ??? No such thing on a 2000 Explorer/Mountaineer. There's no cover, just the end of the axle.

Changing rear axle bearings on a 2000 is nothing like changing the fronts (2WD or 4WD/AWD).

The rear axles must first be removed then the bearings get pulled out with a slide hammer and new ones have to be hammered in using a bearing installer, It's not a particularly difficult job using the proper tools, but it'll take you at least half a day (probably a full day the first time you do it).

Tip: Do both sides at the same time.

A short version of the procedure:
Remove the rear wheels
Remove the rear diff cover
If LSD remove the LSD spring
Remove the pin retaining bolt and pin
Push the axles in and remove the "C" clips with a magnet
Remove the axles
Using a slide hammer and the bearing remover tool bang out the old bearings/seals
Using a bearing installer bang in the new bearings
Install new axle seals
Carefully reinstall the axles (do not drag them over the new seals)
Reinstall the "C" clips, pin, pin retaining bolt and LSD spring
Reinstall the diff cover and refill with approx 3 qts of gear oil + LSD friction modifier

 

[CDW6212R]

The rear axle bearings and seals aren't bad to replace, but the tiny 8mm bolt which must be removed from the cross pin in the diff, that you need to be prepared for. I'd suggest buying a new bolt to replace the old one, but the rub is the old bolt sometimes will break. I think most times it's because the old was had been removed and reused before, or it was over tightened. If that bolt loosens without breaking, the rest of the job isn't that bad. You have to get a slide hammer and the special axle bearing puller tools, rent from a store. Getting the old bearings and seals out is easy, but go slow and carefully hammering the new ones in. You can use proper bearing installers, or a large socket if you can find one the right big size.

 

[Darksoldier]

I just changed the drivers side CV axle in under 20 minutes and I didn't have to do half of this. Took me longer to pick up the part. Not sure if the passenger side would work the same though. I just removed the spindle nut. Then unbolted the upper ball joint. Then removed the caliper slide pin bolts and caliper but not the bracket or pads or rotor. I then set the caliper on the upper control arm and with the tie rod and lower ball joint still attached swung the steering knuckle down and to the side. Then bent the joint and slid out the axle. Reassembley is reverse with torque of spindle nut being critical.