Damaged Fuse Box, no Ignition Power!

[jvcalvin]

You should get the proper BCM in there but at a minimum it needs to be programmed properly. That is your problem!

I've got the right BCM in, but can't program it until I get power going.

 

[jmr061]

So programming it has been attempted and it won't accept programming?

 

[jvcalvin]

It can't be programmed until I fix the power problem

 

[jmr061]

We are trying to help you out here. You need to realize when a new (not talking used) BCM is installed it won't power up the vehicle and the dealer can still program it. There are a handful of different versions of BCM for the 17 Utility and Explorer. They have different hardware part #s. If you take one from a Platinum for instance, it will never properly program in a Utility. Hardware part #s are hardcoded to them and when dealer software is used to do a replacement procedure it checks to ensure it is the correct part # and if it isn't the programming will fail. Could other methods be used to possibly make it work, yes but firmware is specific to some things like what headlights a vehicle is equipped with, what battery it has, what amp alternator is in it, etc. I'm not talking about build programming either, I am talking about actual firmware (like computer bios).

I would fully expect that a BCM from an Explorer (not a Utility) will not start a Utility when installed in a Utility.

 

[jvcalvin]

The BCM I put in was Multifunction Module HU5T-15604, sub code FAP. From what the dealership said, this matched the part number required based on my VIN.

I'm sorry if I seem frustrated, but I really do appreciate your help. I certainly agree that the BCM could be the reason that the starter relay isn't being signaled when I turn actuate the ignition. I think that train of logic makes perfect sense, and definitely am going to try that avenue of approach once I'm able to do so. The problem is, I don't have any problem running to my ignition (and other things that I am still realizing). I have to manually wire power to it, and have only done so thus far for temporary experimental purposes.

From my understanding of what the programming for the BCM does, it would halt the vehicle from being able to start. As well based on my limited understanding, not having the vehicle's firmware programmed wouldn't stop the ignition wiring harness from getting power. Do you think that the firmware being updated could impact power distribution?

 

[jmr061]

Bottom line is it needs to be programmed in order to start the vehicle and the rest of the vehicle options to work properly. Send a PM with your VIN and the VIN of the vehicle that the replacement BCM came from. I can decipher the firmware from the VINs and what the part number of the BCM should be. Even if the firmware is correct the build data has to be programmed for your vehicle.

 

[jvcalvin]

My electrical problem sounds basically identical to another guy's problem with a blown IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse. Only the radio, instrument cluster, and a couple of other things get power (only 3 fuses get continuous power out of the entire cabin BCM). However, newer Explorers don't have IOD fuses.

Manufacturer Part Number: HU5T-15604-FAP
Interchange Part Number: 591-10451
My VIN: 1FM5K8AR2HGA77110
Donor VIN: Waiting to hear back from Seller.

 

[jmr061]

@jvcalvin I sent you a message

 

[jvcalvin]

After replacing the BCM with one that is well matched to mine, I'm still experiencing the same problems. I am not getting power to the ignition through the stock wiring harness. There could be other things that aren't getting power, but I'm not sure yet of everything. The ignition doesn't recognize that the key is in position. If I add power directly to the ignition by unplugging my aftermarket remote start module and jumping power from battery input to ignition/accessory/starter output, I get accessory power, but am still unable to start the car. I used to be able to remote start the vehicle after initially damaging the stock BCM, but after replacing the BCM, I'm no longer able to remote start the car. I only get continuous power to 3 fuses in the cabin BCM. All fuses in the engine bay BCM and cabin have been checked. The relays have been swapped out in the engine bay BCM, with no discernible difference. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, I can't seem to be able to find a list of what fuses should be continuous, ignition or accessory. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[peterk9]

Is the key you are using an Integrated Keyhead Transmitter (IKT)? If so and the security code is stored in the BCM, then that could be the issue. The 2 don't recognize each other.

Peter

 

[jvcalvin]

Is the key you are using an Integrated Keyhead Transmitter (IKT)? If so and the security code is stored in the BCM, then that could be the issue. The 2 don't recognize each other.

Peter

It doesn't have chipped keys.

 

[jvcalvin]

After looking at the wiring diagram..

Power goes from the battery to the Cabin BCM via a yellow/red wire. My yellow/red wire is tapped into for the remote start system. The remote start system is getting power. When I remove the wiring harness from the BCM, the wiring harness is still getting power from the yellow/red cable. Yet, fuse 18 is not getting power. The wiring that runs from fuse 18 to the ignition switch is not receiving power. It does look as though the power is stopping at the BCM... Does the PCM have the ability to control the BCM's ignition relay? Are there any other parts that can control the BCM's power output?

 

[jvcalvin]

It turns out the main fuse located beneath the Battery Junction Box was blown. PEC manufactures it, and its part number is 3729. If anyone ever blows it and is looking to replace it, Ford will just replace your BJB. The fuse can be pulled from 2016+ Explorers.

 

[peterk9]

Thanks for the update.

 

[jvcalvin]

After replacing the main fuse, all that I needed was the tune. It starts up and runs perfectly now!

 

[peterk9]

Good to hear. Thanks for the update.

Peter