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[85462713]

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[Pete Deering]

Hi, I've been having some rough starting issues and when I took it to a shop they said it had a faulty camshaft position sensor. I tried doing the repair myself but I'm not able to get to it (Back center of the engine under a few pipes/cables). Anyone have any tips to get to it? I wasn't even able to unplug the connector because of how hard

.
I did a writeup with pictures for 4.0L OHV X engine. Your cam sensor is different. There are two 5 or 6 mm bolt that holds the cap. You should be able too just replace the cap. If the CID is making a noise, than the hold unit. There are a few you tube video on reolacement

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I had to remove the upper intake manifold on my 2000 to access the cam synchro.

The cap screws are 5.5mm.

Maybe the earlier models had more room at the firewall, but the 2000 is very close in that area...

 

[Pete Deering]

I had to remove the upper intake manifold on my 2000 to access the cam synchro.

The cap screws are 5.5mm.

Maybe the earlier models had more room at the firewall, but the 2000 is very close in that area...

My 95 has very little room from the firewall. I remove my window CID with just removing the coil. Read my writeup with pictures. I was told too remove the upper manifold, but that extra work.

 

[85462713]

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[Fix4Dirt]

Where do I find the writeup?

CMP-1993 to 1995 ford explorer xlt 4 door Code X (Cam Position Sensor) Cam Synchronizer Replacement.

 

[410Fortune]

You can get space to work back there!!
Remove the two 19mm nuts that hold your transmission mount to the crossmember
Put a floor jack under your t case (or under your tailhousing for you rwd guys) and jack up the transmission carefully (until it hits the floor)

You have just gained a bunch of room behind the upper plenum to work, allowing you to now replace the cam sensor or the entire synchroizer

Otherwise remove the upper plenum takes about 15-20 minutes. Plan on new O rings and a new EGR O ring if you go that route

 

[fast_dave]

@85462713

​

On my '98 OHV, I removed the (4) bolts that hold the hood to the hood brackets.​

Then I slid a step ladder next to the fender and worked from the top down.

It was a tight work area back by the firewall, but I was able to remove & replace the Camshaft Sensor without having to remove the upper intake manifold.

TIP: Before removing the hood, make "witness marks" with a paint stick from the "face" of the hood bracket over and across to the underside of the hood.

That way when you're done, you simply line up the witness marks between the brackets and the hood and bolt 'em up.

Good luck -

 

[85462713]

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[fast_dave]

The end of the gas hood lifts simply pop off of their ball & socket joint mounts by putting a large flathead screwdriver behind them and popping them off - easy peasy.

The lift ends are a "friction fit" - and they are the least of your problems in the big picture of this job - seriously....

Where it will get fun is removing the camshaft sensor body/assembly that's been in the engine block for 20 plus years......

I've read about nightmares where - for instance - a guy had to cobble together a slide hammer tool and attach it to the assembly so as to be able to "impact" pull the assembly out of the block millimeter by millimeter.

Also, to add, on installation of the new assembly - many of the camshaft assembly bodies available now are Chi-Com manufactured and don't fit/slide into the block "easily".

The high-quality / aftermarket Motorcraft camshaft assembly bodies, as well as the OEM Factory Part, are now long gone.

IF by chance you can find one on someone's shelf you will pay dearly for it.

Advice: Read the many writeups and have a big toolbox - make sure you buy the "arrow tool" - marking the firewall with a witness mark, indicating where it was pointed before removal.

That firewall "witness mark" is your target mark for proper re-installation.

One tooth off on re-assembly and you're screwed.

I'm giving you the worst case BUT very possible scenarios since you wrote that you were scared of the gas hood lifts...

Seriously - This repair sometimes goes easy, and at other times becomes a two day nightmare.

My experience wasn't bad because when I did the repair my truck was only 7-8 years old AND I was able to score a Made in USA Motorcraft camshaft assembly body replacement part.

HTH -

 

[410Fortune]

yes I have been there done that, the slide hammer thing.
What @fast_dave said is exactly true so I marked his post as "best Answered"
I still drop the trans mount nuts and raise the transmission to work on the sycnro, back of the intake. Removing the hood is also a good idea.

The cheapo aftermarket synchronizers can get stuck in the 4.0 block, I am talking STUCK
They are not machined properly to fit, once you put them down in there they will not come out
So do not fight one to get it to seat unless you are prepared to fight it to get it out. This required making a tool to fit our slide hammer and thread into the two screws of the synchronizer body....then the slide hammer was used ALOT to get the defective part out.

Went through 3-4 cam synchronizers from Oreilly / Autozone before we went back to a junkyard Ford unit and then eventually found a $350 ford synchronizer

 

[georgeumo]

Hi, I've been having some rough starting issues and when I took it to a shop they said it had a faulty camshaft position sensor. I tried doing the repair myself but I'm not able to get to it (Back center of the engine under a few pipes/cables). Anyone have any tips to get to it? I wasn't even able to unplug the connector because of how hard it is to get to.

What engine do you have?

 

[85462713]

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[georgeumo]

4.0L V6 OHV, looks like the same one as the Mazda and Ranger of the same year. Sensor is all the way in the back

You may need to take the inlet manifold down to access it properly. 8 bolts off should get you there. Torx bolts.