Solved - Differential Swap | Page 15 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Solved Differential Swap

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
The fluid lasts forever when it's not been opened. I bought a case of ATE 1 liter cans, about $8 a can IIRC. The fluid will discolor quickly in use, so the color isn't bad as much as any material you might see in it, making it murky instead of transparent.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





The fluid lasts forever when it's not been opened. I bought a case of ATE 1 liter cans, about $8 a can IIRC. The fluid will discolor quickly in use, so the color isn't bad as much as any material you might see in it, making it murky instead of transparent.
it aint murky in the slightest (as in any particulate matter i can see) its just green. no metal or anythign in there, i put the fluid in a empty plastic bottle and let it sit for last night and i notice nothin floatin in it, and nothin settled at the bottom. its just green 🤣 ill see if the new fluid changes color swapped out what i could in the MC twice over the past tiny bit after some driving etc its back to slightly green again, wonder how many of these i can do until it all comes out clean cause just last year 10k ago it was all fresh fluid in the MC lines abs pump everything had fresh fluid put new hoses in new mc nd what not
 






So I just picked up backing plates from the Ford dealership, the ones listed online were part number F5TZ2C220A/B the ones I got are part number 2C028A/B, these are listed for 01-05 explorers/mountaineers. Anybody know if these will still work? I'm assuming not but just curious
 






So I just picked up backing plates from the Ford dealership, the ones listed online were part number F5TZ2C220A/B the ones I got are part number 2C028A/B, these are listed for 01-05 explorers/mountaineers. Anybody know if these will still work? I'm assuming not but just curious

Your old part number is an F5... which is a 1995 part. The 2C... is some after 2000 model part, and I don't think the rear brake backing plate changed for any 1995-01 4dr's. But the Sport Trac started with drum brakes, and those cross application years.



I worry about any parts listings when they describe applications that don't cross over, as matching. The 01 Mountaineer is nothing like the 2002-05 Mountaineer. I've seen that tons of times, likely they are mixing the 2001 Sport(which is a 2dr) with the 2003 Sport and Sport Trac(which goes to 2005), and assuming the parts swap among all of those, and the later Mountaineer and Explorer. I don't know what those idiot parts book guys get paid, or who hired them, but someone should fire them all.
 






Your old part number is an F5... which is a 1995 part. The 2C... is some after 2000 model part, and I don't think the rear brake backing plate changed for any 1995-01 4dr's. But the Sport Trac started with drum brakes, and those cross application years.



I worry about any parts listings when they describe applications that don't cross over, as matching. The 01 Mountaineer is nothing like the 2002-05 Mountaineer. I've seen that tons of times, likely they are mixing the 2001 Sport(which is a 2dr) with the 2003 Sport and Sport Trac(which goes to 2005), and assuming the parts swap among all of those, and the later Mountaineer and Explorer. I don't know what those idiot parts book guys get paid, or who hired them, but someone should fire them all.
I'm inclined to agree with you on the last part, guess I'll go home and just check if it all lines up, fortunately I can hit the caliper mount on the old axle with a hammer until it comes off
 






Watch how the caliper mounts to the bracket and the rotor, check it out carefully. The 3rd gen rear calipers have been installed onto the 2nd gen trucks, to gain a slightly larger pad. So it might look perfect at a quick glance, look it over closely to be sure the rotors and calipers line up very well onto the installed axles.
 






Watch how the caliper mounts to the bracket and the rotor, check it out carefully. The 3rd gen rear calipers have been installed onto the 2nd gen trucks, to gain a slightly larger pad. So it might look perfect at a quick glance, look it over closely to be sure the rotors and calipers line up very well onto the installed axles.
I mean it's 2nd gen backing plate, bracket, rotor, caliper, pads, etc only the axle and shafts are 3rd gen
 






The part number you posted I don't know if it's the right one, going by the application list of the description isn't the right way to confirm fitment. So if it's not the right one, it's hard to tell at a glance without mocking it all up together.
 






Yeah I see what you mean now, that part was found by the VIN though so I'd like to believe that the Ford parts guy knew what he was doing for once
 






What's the full part number of what you got?2C028A/B looks like just the dust shield, does it have the caliper bracket?
 






What's the full part number of what you got?2C028A/B looks like just the dust shield, does it have the caliper bracket?
No it's just the shield, I just looked at the old axle and I can't quite tell, do I need to pull the axle shafts to get the bracket off?
 






No it's just the shield, I just looked at the old axle and I can't quite tell, do I need to pull the axle shafts to get the bracket off?
Yes, axle shafts need to be removed. Can you cut the old axle to remove the shafts?
 






Yes, axle shafts need to be removed. Can you cut the old axle to remove the shafts?
That's what I was just thinking, time to grab the sawzall and get to work. I've seen aftermarket kits that only go part of the way around the axle tube so you don't have to remove the shafts to get them off, I wasn't sure if the factory ones were like that or not.
 






Come to think of it would a sawzall with carbide blades do ok with that hardened steel? Or would an angle grinder be better? I'm gonna try an extractor socket and a hammer first but just in case
 






Might be easier to focus on the pin that holds the shafts in
 






Yes, you have to remove that pin. Sometimes the left over broken bolt can be removed from it, and then it slips out easily. If not then you have to cut into it to remove enough that the pin will come out. The pin has to come out.
 












Seriously though don't drive it anymore with it slamming in to gear that's really bad on the transmission its basically like revving it up to 6k in neutral and shifting to drive
Kinda like this? Right @donalds?

 









Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top