Solved Differential Swap

[sandsprayer]

similar!!! ahhh man neutral drop, havent seen that channel in a long time "cameraman here with stuntman"

It's amazing how long the vehicles last!
Always a good watch when nothing good on the tube!

 

[sandsprayer]

Another great channel is Cleetus McFarland. Them guys are always up to something. I even got a "Stand back I built this sh*t myself "tee.
Just got back from the other coast where one of the duties was shuffling cars up and down the coast. My Sister in law's family has a schedule and check points, but I was still able to jet from I95 to the 75 and stop by the gate of the Freedom Factory.
Hung out for about a half hour before The Sheriff moved me along, besides didn't want to be a stalker, just wanted to meet one of the guys.
Hell Yeah Brother! Twin Turbskis

 

[C420sailor]

The 8mm socket bolt in the carrier snapped off? Is that what we’re talking about?

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

The 8mm socket bolt in the carrier snapped off? Is that what we’re talking about?

It isn't snapped off but it's stripped pretty good

 

[donalds]

Another great channel is Cleetus McFarland. Them guys are always up to something. I even got a "Stand back I built this sh*t myself "tee.
Just got back from the other coast where one of the duties was shuffling cars up and down the coast. My Sister in law's family has a schedule and check points, but I was still able to jet from I95 to the 75 and stop by the gate of the Freedom Factory.
Hung out for about a half hour before The Sheriff moved me along, besides didn't want to be a stalker, just wanted to meet one of the guys.
Hell Yeah Brother! Twin Turbskis

Check this channel out

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC8dKAjU5RaZc0CNFUN1FhQA/videos

 

[donalds]

It isn't snapped off but it's stripped pretty good

They make a removal kit for that
Amazon product ASIN B007ZS4I3U

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

They make a removal kit for that
Amazon product ASIN B007ZS4I3U

Extractor socket did the trick

 

[sandsprayer]

Check this channel out

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC8dKAjU5RaZc0CNFUN1FhQA/videos

i have been away for a couple months and missed this forum!
That said I may go away again should there be more work on the east coast.
@donalds how far are you from the I95/85? May need to buy you a cold one!

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Is it ok to set the axle tubes on jack stands? We've been jacking the front and rear up and putting stands under the jack points welded to the control arms in the front and under the frame rails in the rear, but it's getting really annoying to have to jack both ends up since I don't have anything to chock the front wheels with. I don't like the frame rails either because they are pretty far forward

 

[C420sailor]

Can you? Probably if the jacks are touching the leafs. Would I? No.

I usually put my jacks on the front leaf mounts, or immediately forward. It’s not going to tip back—way way too much mass up forward.

 

[CDW6212R]

Use the front center cross member for jacking, and the jack stands. In the rear the axle tubes are great to put jack stands under, out near the brakes. I've hardly ever used the frame rails, only with my car lift.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

I just locked it in 4 low and lifted the rear

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

The rear axle is finally completely done, it sucks having to work one day at a time to get it done but it's finally done. Now I've got the front diff to do, my manual says to disconnect the lower ball joint and lower control arm from the knuckle, but I know someone else said disconnect the upper ball joint, which makes the process easier?

 

[CDW6212R]

Disconnect the upper BJ from the spindle, unbolt the sway bar from the LCA and let it droop down. With the steering turned you will be able to remove the CV axles. I've always also taken the TRE's loose from the spindle but others say that isn't required. Leave the lower BJ's intact, those you don't have to mess with at all.

Remember to disconnect the diff/vent hose, from where it clips onto the left frame at the UCA front mounting brackets, near the shock tower.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Disconnect the upper BJ from the spindle, unbolt the sway bar from the LCA and let it droop down. With the steering turned you will be able to remove the CV axles. I've always also taken the TRE's loose from the spindle but others say that isn't required. Leave the lower BJ's intact, those you don't have to mess with at all.

Remember to disconnect the diff/vent hose, from where it clips onto the left frame at the UCA front mounting brackets, near the shock tower.

My manual says to take the TREs off, does it make it a whole lot easier?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

How to: - removing front diff on a 95+

I figure that since I've done this twice (once to regear and once to install a locker) and figured out a faster [than the book] way to do this, that I should share my info. It took me about 1.5 hrs to drop and the same time to reinstall the second time. 1) Jack up passenger side; remove...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Mbrooks420]

I just locked it in 4 low and lifted the rear

Locking it in low won’t bind the front and rear axles together, unless the key is on.

 

[CDW6212R]

My manual says to take the TREs off, does it make it a whole lot easier?

I've disconnected the TRE's every time I've removed the axles, you don't need to turn the steering wheel that way. I gather with the TRE's attached, you can turn the wheel fully each way to remove each axle. If you can use a sledge hammer to make the TRE easy to let go, I'd prefer that way. If you try to use a small hammer or a puller that damages the TRE boot, then you won't like taking the TRE's off.

 

[410Fortune]

the cv axles will come out without removing the tie rod ends from the knuckle, but you have to fight it a little bit, compressing the cv axle and pushing it through the bearing
If you remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle then things slide right apart.
I remove the cotter pin from the castle nut, remove the castle nut, flip it over and install it on the TRE threads about 3-4 turns then one good smack directly on the castle nut with a sledge and the TRE comes right up out of the knuckle every time with no damage done.

Any book that tells you to mess with the lower ball joint on these trucks to change a CV is not the correct manual for our trucks
I could do this in my sleep I have rebuilt so many SLA IFS front ends............. cv axle, wheel bearing and ball joint changes on these trucks are a SNAP

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

So the front diff is in.... Kinda.... I ended up undoing the outer tie rods and upper ball joints and even then the CV axles took quite a bit of convincing to come out. The only issue I have with it now is when the scrapyard pulled the old one off the bushing that goes up into the frame/body by the driveshaft got stuck to the bolt and they stripped it out. Does anybody have any tips on getting it out? It looks like it's attached by a bracket and the one on my old diff is still good, would it be fairly easy to take that same bracket off the old one and swap it over? The main thing is I really don't want to have to drop the diff again to get it done.