Difficulty changing spark plugs

[Jornum1]

Ok, I bought new bosch platinum +4's the other day. I went to install them yesterday, and I am having the hardest time getting the wire end off the plugs. Is there some kind of trick to it? I got two of them, but couldnt get the other 4. One more question, I have a '99 sport SOCH. I dont see how I can get the last plug in the upper right side. Its kinda behind the heater inlet. thanks everyone
Jason

 

[Kyle K.]

I'm surprised your boots are stuck that tightly on a new truck. Mine weren't that bad but you are right about the last one being difficult, my truck is a '91 so our setup is a little different but... you will need a swivle or universal for the socket and / or may be able to reach it from inside the fenderwell. good luck. i was able to pull the inner fender plastic up a little to reach it there because i have a little lift up front.


dodger

 

[Brett]

Jason,

Try the twist and pull trick on the plug boots. As for removing the spark plugs, the left side is a piece of cake; the right side will require a swivel socket and extension. Also, just as Kyle K said, it is easier to access the back 2 cylinders on the right side through the wheel well. I just changed my spark plugs to the Bosch platinum +4's this weekend, and it made an impressive difference. Make sure to disconnect the negative ground cable for the battery to reset the computer.

Brett Grooms
94 Sport

 

[Jornum1]

Ok, I am a bit confused, when you say acess the last two plugs from the wheel well? I dont understand what you mean there? Could someone explain to me a little more specific? thanks alot.
Jason Hofer

 

[roadkill]

Jornum1,
The plug nearest the heater box/fire wall can be reached from the passenger side wheel well. If you turn the sterring wheel and front tires to the far right, you can reach the plug by sitting next to the passenger side front tire, and reaching above the tire and truck frame, thru the hole where you can see the engine. A long extension and a swivel on the plug socket should get you to the plug. Always rememmber to hand start the plugs when you install them so you don't "cross thread" them. I usually do the other two plugs on the same side from above, also with a swivel and extension.

Roadkill

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Wil - roadkill@earthling.net

 

[Kyle K.]

good point brett, pay attention here journum, whenever you do something to improve the performance of the truck disconnect the negative battery cable , it lets the computer relearn things and addapt the the new equipment, holy air box batman, plugs, exhaust, you name it it makes a difference.

dodger

 

[jwrezz]

After re-attaching the battery, I believe you should let the engine idle for 4 min or so to let the computer completely reset itself.

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John '95 XLT

 

[Jornum1]

Thanks everyone for the help, I got the Back right one out easy, from behind the wheel. My problem is now I got all of them replaced but the middle right plug. I just cant get that cap off. I can reach it ok, I have pulled and twisted. I tried to get to it from under the car, behind the wheel, but the damn thing wont budge. Anyone have any ideas as to what I can do now? My forearms are sore as hell, just because of this one plug boot. THank all
Jason

 

[Kyle K.]

Quintin is referring to ... or another name for what he is talkin' about is called, dielectric grease. good stuff it also offers some corrosion protection.

dodger

 

[Quintin]

Have you tried a boot removel tool? Not even sure if you can get one of those in there to use it though. I've had the same problem on mine and I eventually got the boot off (not to mention a few nasty scrapes on my knuckles) by just pulling and twisting hard on the boot at the same time. If you're still having problems after that have you considered using a razor to cut the boot a little (being very careful not to cut yourself and only if you're not going to re-use the wire of course)?
On new wires see if they come with an electrolytic compound(I think that's what it's called), it looks like a clear gel. The Accel wires I used had that and when I put it in the end of the boot that slides over the plugs it made them come off a lot more easily. This compound is also supposed to help make a better connection between the plug and wire for a better spark.

 

[Tino]

Jornum,

Hope this will help. This morning I went to Pep Boys and they have something like a big tweezer, palstic, yellow in color called spark plug wire puller. I checked the tip and it seems well made and will hold the wire without breaking it. There should be a better kind other than that. I'm also planning to change my plugs.

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[Barry Loar]

You definitely need SOME type of plug wire puller for the right side. (I used a big snap ring pliers with 90° tips to get behind the plug boot) I also put on Magnecor 85KV wires and was pretty impressed. It cranks over & fires up in about 1 second. (97 Sport 5 spd.)

 

[Jornum1]

Well thanks everyone, I still cant get that right middle boot, but I think I will try some 90 degree needle noses I found in my toolbox. I have a question though, Are new wires worth it, and who makes the best, and what do they run? Thanks everyone for all the help
Jason

 

[Tino]

Jason

I suugest you pull off the wire wether you break it or not and change it with a new and better one. It might be time anyway and would give your Explorer a better performance. The wire might have been defective already after several twisting and pulling. You might as well spend a few bucks more for the better. I can imagine how you feel. How many days already?

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[Jornum1]

ok I am about done with this problem, I still cant get that boot off, and I am ready to just cut it off, and get new wires. Now my question is what do you guys recomed? Genaric ones, or should I go high end? if so where should I get them from? THanks all
jason

 

[JWood]

Help removing a stuck spark plug!!

I know I have screwed up!! My 93 XLT has spark plugs which are about 5 years old (100k miles or so)with original wires. I anticipate difficulty in removal of the plugs and wires and know it was stupid to wait this long as well.

Any suggestions for loosening up a plug that seems "frozen" in place? Could I damage the threads on the cylinder if applying too much pressure? Should I just leave it in if I can't get it out? Think I should just take it to a mechanic and let them do it? Worst case, has anyone had to rethread a cylinder?

Again, I know it was not smart to leave plugs in that long, but I did, so know I have to deal with it.

Your comments about loosening up plugs would be welcome.

Thanks

 

[Bigcheck1]

i just put the platinum +4's in this weekend. it was the first engine work i had done since my body lift. good lord was i t easy to get all the plugs out. the body lift gave me enough room to put my head in the wheelwell. anyway, thats beside the point. i didn't disconnect the battery, does that make that much of a difference? i had never heard that before. also i got some tune up kit for 2 bucks that had silicone lube for the boots and some lock tite or something similar for the threads this makes it real easy to get the plugs and wires both in and out. you might want to try that when you put the new plugs in.

 

[Trckmagik]

Jornum, I am running the Bosch plugs in my explorer with splitfire wires. Love the set-up! Just a thought. Your truck is looking to good to throw some cheap plug wires in it.

 

[flyguy]

Go splitfire or Jacobs... I think you can pickup or order Splitfire from your local auto shop though... Jacobs seems to be more of a specialty thing... like online stores and what not... everybody who has them though swears by them. I think Im gunna try some bosh plugs next time...

nick

 

[JM Dookie]

Jornum,
I had the same problem when I replaced my plugs. The wires on the right side were frozen on the plugs and I couldn't get enough leverage on the boots to pull them off with my hands. My last hope was to use a large flat-blade screwdriver and pry the boot off at the base. It worked very easily. Just be careful not to cut or pierce your rubber boot. Try this before you do something you regret.