Disable ABS Brakes 96 Ranger

[Backstretch]

96 Ranger...I want to disable the ABS brakes...there are several fuses marked anti-lock..which fuse do I pull to disable the ABS?

 

[DjDom]

Just unplug one of the ABS wires at the front wheels. Zip tie it to the frame and cap the end so it doesn't get dirty..
No more ABS.

 

[1995goldexploder]

I'm going disconnect mt ABS on my 95 exploder this weekend? where is the sensor and connecto located? Do I need to pull the caliper to get to it???

 

[SLAYERMIKE]

There is a plug between the sensor harness and the truck harness behind the front bumper, just follow the harness from the sensor up to the frame...

 

[gcf1010]

Just out of curiosity, what's the benefit of disabling the abs system?

 

[DjDom]

Just out of curiosity, what's the benefit of disabling the abs system?

If you know how a braking system works, you can stop sooner with ABS off. However, in snow and ice, ABS works wonders, as you can still steer.

There aren't many benefits to disabling it..

This guy's trying to disable.. I've been trying to fix mine for 3 years now..

 

[RomeovilleIL]

ABS pumps the brake system to prevent brake lockups and skidding. For offroad crawling where you may only have 3 wheels on the ground being disabled can be very important so you can actually stop instead of going crunch.

Safest and most quickly reinstalled is to just disconnect the plug on the ABS unit under the hood. Pulling fuses will turn off other things besides just the ABS.

DjDom - what ABS codes do you show? Unless there is a break in the wiring somewhere, usually isn't terrible to fix. Usual culprits are one of the 3 sensors or tone rings dirty/damaged/not shimmed correctly, air bubble in the ABS unit which requires special scan tool to cycle and bleed, or faulty ABS unit itself. You have a thread on your issue somewhere?

 

[DjDom]

DjDom - what ABS codes do you show? Unless there is a break in the wiring somewhere, usually isn't terrible to fix. Usual culprits are one of the 3 sensors or tone rings dirty/damaged/not shimmed correctly, air bubble in the ABS unit which requires special scan tool to cycle and bleed, or faulty ABS unit itself. You have a thread on your issue somewhere?

Ah, no codes, the ABS light turns on after I start moving, so I know it's a sensor. I changed the front left hub, and the rear sensor, so I know that it's the front right sensor. But since that hub is relatively new and still good, I don't want to swap it out just yet.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Ah, no codes, the ABS light turns on after I start moving, so I know it's a sensor. I changed the front left hub, and the rear sensor, so I know that it's the front right sensor. But since that hub is relatively new and still good, I don't want to swap it out just yet.

Basically the sensor is just a magnet. The tone ring looks like a gear - a slightly magnetic steel ring with teeth cut in it. As the wheel turns each cut is a break in the electrical field caused from the magnets being close together. Usually if the sensor is shot it will not have continuity and the initial self-test at engine start will fail, the system disables and the light comes on. Should be simple enough to pull and test the sensor. I believe is should show around 1 ohm of resistance. Since the vehicle self-tests ok from start the sensor itself may be ok. Have you tried cleaning and re-shimming the sensor? If it's too far away (reads open) or has gunk/metal shavings on it (reads closed) then the system gets no pulses and sets an error. Replacement sensors by themselves cost more than a cheap hub, but it's a used item that can be had for very little at any yard and are probably available from the sellers on the forum who pull them from there bad hubs.

 

[DjDom]

Basically the sensor is just a magnet. The tone ring looks like a gear - a slightly magnetic steel ring with teeth cut in it. As the wheel turns each cut is a break in the electrical field caused from the magnets being close together. Usually if the sensor is shot it will not have continuity and the initial self-test at engine start will fail, the system disables and the light comes on. Should be simple enough to pull and test the sensor. I believe is should show around 1 ohm of resistance. Since the vehicle self-tests ok from start the sensor itself may be ok. Have you tried cleaning and re-shimming the sensor? If it's too far away (reads open) or has gunk/metal shavings on it (reads closed) then the system gets no pulses and sets an error. Replacement sensors by themselves cost more than a cheap hub, but it's a used item that can be had for very little at any yard and are probably available from the sellers on the forum who pull them from there bad hubs.

Pulling the sensor from these hubs usually results in the sensor being broken.
They are a sealed design. If there is dirt in there, that means the hub is bad as it's allowing dirt into the bearing. I'm just going to wait until I need to replace it, and then the issue should be fixed..
Until then, I've been driving without ABS for over 3 years now. I've gotten used to it. In some cases, I'm happy I don't have it.

 

[1995goldexploder]

My reasoning for disabling my explorers ABS comes from; 1) I rarely drive it 2) it has 230,000+/- miles on it, 3) The paint is flaking in all sorts of places and therefore it is kind of butt ugly and... 4) the ABS light is on, and as many of you have discovered, diagnosing and correcting the issue can be a real crap shoot, not to mention costly if you just start replacing stuff.
But..... as it's still a great utility vehicle; as there is rarely snow or ice in south Texas and as it's just great for going to the range, the woods, etc., plus the A/C Cranks, which is Vital in south Texas, disconnecting seems the most reasonable course of action. Thanks y'all )