Doing Body Lift Today -- Any tips?

[zPike00EB]

Thanks to you guys ont he forums, I'll be putting a 3" PA 883 on the X today, I hope, along with shackles and TT

I've read this link : http://mudmarine.tripod.com/3bodyliftinstall/index.html a bunch of times, as well as printed it out for a reference.

I made this thread in case I run into any problems mid-build, and also to ask if anyone has any tips other that what is mentioned in that link.

Let me know guys, I'll get some pictures up soon!

 

[Paraphoe]

Get PB blaster/penetrating oil on the engine compartment body mount bolts first, if you haven't already been doing it and letting them soak overnight. Those things are the worst.

Also, when you're done lifting, make sure your AC high-pressure line isn't pressed up against your fan belt. That cost me $200.

Good luck, have fun.

 

[zPike00EB]

Not having the best time here -- All the bolts are rusted.
I love New England

I can't even get the bumpers off..

Might have to continue this on Friday after soaking in some PB Blaster.

Also, the manual doesn't help locate the air bag fuses. In the cab -- or under the hood. How important is this?

Has anyone done this with with the air suspension?

 

[410Fortune]

this is a BIG job

I used a sawazall on 4 of my 8 mounts to cut them in HALF
SORE and TIRED arms after that, also went through about 12 blades

Body lift is best to have some help and patience, power tools help big time

 

[Paraphoe]

Just for some perspective, getting the two engine compartment bolts out took me 9-10 hours. Sledge hammer, propane torch, PB blaster out the ass, breaker bars, and broke one or two sockets on them (thank you Craftsman for your lifetime warranty! ). FINALLY succeeded in getting them out after letting them soak overnight with yet more PB and attacking them with a 4 foot pipe as a cheater bar on the end of my breaker bar. Yes, I was walking 5 feet from my truck with the end of the pipe in my hand.

410 is right, it's NOT an easy job, especially for us Rust Belt folks..I feel your pain, man. I did mine in over 90 degree heat on blacktop. I don't think I've ever sweat that much before or since and must've put away 6 gallons of water and pissed maybe once in 15 hours.



EDIT: Air bag fuses? What airbag fuses?

 

[joshuaj0214]

I agree. I used air ls in a well equiped shop and it took me 8-9 hours to do it by myself. It is no easy job.



I also didn't know about any air bag fuses?

 

[zPike00EB]

Well I got the whole thing coated in Liquid Wrench.. well those soak I got the shackles MOSTLY in.. having a hard time getting the spring to its original position, gonna try a small jack in there.

I had a few things that concerned me that I thought someone might be able to help me with:

• "Ground wire on the drivers side firewall over the left cylinder bank"
• Unclipping the tranny cable -- Location???
• Disconnecting the "Motor Cable"
• Radiator Core Mounts?
• "There is a sheet metal cover on the inside of the drivers side frame rail. YOu will see it from the engine compartment. Check to see if you have to remove it annd unhook some brake lines."
• Steering Shaft scares me.

Im sorry for all the questions.. But this is literally the first time I've even rolled under a truck before

 

[joshuaj0214]

First piece of advice is: don't follow the instructions word for word. The kit is for a Ranger and not an Explorer and they are a little different.

I believe the grond wire you reffered to is attached to the cylinder head and it should have enough slack in it. You will have to disconnect the emergency cable bracket under the drivers door on the outside of the frame. I didn't unhook the shift or speedometer cables. just keep a eye on them when you jack up the body and don't go to high to fast. I also had 2 ground straps about half way back on the frame that ran up to the body. I didn't unhook them either but they will give you just enough slack to slide in the spacers.

If I remember correctly, you can follow the directions for relocating the fan shroud, you should get the idea once you start doing it. I also didn't unhook any of the brake lines. Again, SLOW AND STEADY! Just keep an eye on all of the hoses and wires while you are jacking up the body. Stop and check often.

The steering column is probably the easiest part. Once you remove the bolt that goes thru the shaft it will slide apart. Then the spacer will slide in and bolt it back together with the stock bolt and a new one that comes in the kit.

 

[gmanpaint]

It took 2 of us a couple of days to get the BL installed. I can tell you that the body mounts are thread locked. A propane torch held on the end of the bolt for 1 min will break the lock, turn it while it is hot. The fronts are just a pita, no matter how you do it. A large pipe wrench will help with a cheater bar on it. You will have to hold it from both ends, if it don't budge, don't waste your time, cut it off. Replace with grade 8 bolts and washers. Use a large fender washer for the top part. Careful to not damage the rubber/silicone spacers, you have to reuse them.

I had to purchase a lot of grade 8 hardware, as the kit is for a ranger, and the bolts for the truck bed don't all work for the ex cargo area and seating cabin.

The kit should have come with drop down brackets for your ground strap to the firewall, E brake lines, radiator supports, and gas fill tank tube.

Unplug the shift motor wire harness, remove the shifter cable from bracket, and holder on firewall. When done, replace shifter cable to the bracket, but not to the firewall, it will be lower than before, and your hole is now too high. The body ground straps are easy breezy, just disconnect them and reconnect them in a diff spot later, there just clips. Check the front diff disco for the wires and vac lines, make sure they are connected still.

Take the fan off for more room dealing with the shroud.

The bumpers are a pita as well. Take your time, soak the living crap out of them with penetrating fluid, and wait! Removing them is the easy part! Putting them back on, is the fun part! We will wait till you get to that part later, cause I know you will be back with questions!

I hope this helped a bit.
Good luck!

 

[stifler27870]

i just finished mine like 2 days ago. i haven`t done the bumpers yet . alot of pb blaster, propane torch, and alot of beer comes in handy. by the way the front core mounts are probably gonna be a big pita also.

 

[zPike00EB]

Thanks for all the info guys.

Gman -- When you refer to grade 8 bolts and washers, what exactly did you have to get for the whole install, and from where?

I got the shackles and TT in, 8 of the 10 body mounts are soaking in Liquid wrench, I can't find the "core" mounts (up front) with the lighting I had, any pics or advice?


Thanks again guys, I appreciate it a lot

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks for all the info guys.

Gman -- When you refer to grade 8 bolts and washers, what exactly did you have to get for the whole install, and from where?

I got the shackles and TT in, 8 of the 10 body mounts are soaking in Liquid wrench, I can't find the "core" mounts (up front) with the lighting I had, any pics or advice?


Thanks again guys, I appreciate it a lot

Most any hardware store will have the grade 8 bolts. For the front mounts, I went to a John deer dealership. They have odd size metric lengths and the large fender washers. All grade 10.9 bolts! Strongest I have seen! Not cheap either,

As far as exactly the size and quantity, , I have to think about that one for a bit.

The core mounts are the one's in the very front of the vehicle. They are different than the rest. The disk(actual core mount) you see below is actually the nut. This is looking down at it, a side view would show the funnel that extends down a few inches. This is off of SVO42's rig.

Here you can see the mount separated from the body. The stud you see is the bolt going through the core mount. This one is messed up because we cut mine off, but you can kinda see what your dealing with. sorry I dont have better pics to show you.

They are kind of cone like. They funnel down into the spacer's. at the end is the threads. These are stubborn as heck, and where you live, I imagine they are gonna be at their worst. I would seriously think of cutting them off if they give you a hard time.

 

[410Fortune]

sawzall time!

AS I said I had to cut 4 of the 8 mounts on my BII took like 12 metal cutting blades and 2 days

Onceyou have the mounts out you will see what kind of bolts, hardware, and large washers you need to replace the stock parts that were not re-useable

 

[zPike00EB]

Gman -- Thanks for the picture's, I've seen that before and didn't think it was a mount. That cleared it up for me.

I'm now just concerned about the LOCATION of the misc. lines.

I are the ground straps just two little 6 inch wires connecting the frame to the body, one under passenger, one under driver sides?

Is the 4wd Motor under the drives side seat?

Anything else I should worry about?

 

[gmanpaint]

Anything else I should worry about?

OK, here's the thing, I am hesitant to say anymore.

As was stated earlier, This Is A Major Job!

This is a 2/3 man MOD. If a pro shop was doing this with all the tools and lifts at their disposal, they would still have 2 men on it.

There is a lot of serious dangers in lifting a rig. You could die!

Don't take this wrong, but after reading your posts, I don't think you are ready to tackle this job on your own. A shop can install for around $500. This will be done by a pro, under some warranty, no damages done to your rig in the install, and faster than you could do it.

SAFETY FIRST ALWAYS!

 

[jumpn4jesus]

Dude, sounds like your having a blast with the BL. Hope you get it done soon. can't wait to see pics.

I want to do one on mine, but am currently trying to trade it for a honda because gas is killing me with driving to school and work and such..

 

[410Fortune]

this is a big job for your first attempt at rolling yourself under a truck, but you can do it, and safely!

The research you are doing here and having some experienced friends with tools would be a HUGE help to you

A body lift is one of the most time consuming and frustrating mods you can make, I cringe at the thought of doing it again, BUT when its all said and done, you dont have to do it again!!

 

[zPike00EB]

I aprreciate your concern about my safety, and I can assure you that I have taken every precaution. For every jack I have 2 stands, E-Brake is always engaged, and theres always at least 1 other person in the garage -- etc.

I feel, for the most part, like I'm learning very fast, the torsion twist took me about half an hour, start to finish. I've located and soaked the crap out of ALL the mounts now, and just got a new propane torch from the hardware store -- got 5 sawzall blades standing by.

I just need to know a few things and I'll feel pretty confident that I'll finish tonight.

-Where is the 4wd Motor Located
-Where is the Tranny Cable Location
-From where do you access the steering shaft

Thanks a lot for your help guys, couldn't even try without this site.

 

[410Fortune]

okay

the transfer case shift motor is located on the back of your transfer case, drivers side of the rear driveshaft, lots of wires going into it the big brown wiring plug is what you ae looking for

The shifter cable is attached to a bracked on your firewall, just below your brake booster. You will need to re-locate it for the body lift

to disconnect the steering shaft you will remove the pinch bolt on the intermediate shaft where it meets the steering column shaft, right near the rubber steering boot at the firewall, just to teh passenger side of your brake booster. Once the bolt is out the two shafts will slide apart. THis is also where your body lift steering extension would go, however I recommend NOT USING THAT PART and simply drill a new hole in your intermediate steering shaft about 1.5" down from the stock hole (shaft that comes through the firewall from steering wheel)

in this picture (taken when I dragged my already body lifted 96 home, before I modified it myself) you can see the shifter cable location on thefirewall and also the steering shafts and the steering shaft extension part (I wouldnt use one of those if you paid me)

 

[joshuaj0214]

The 4wd motor is on the transfer case up next to the front of the gas tank. The trans shift cable comes thru the fire wall next to the steering column and loops back under the cab to the drivers side of the transmission.


nevermind, 410s got me beat!: