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door rattles

X on 22s

Active Member
Joined
April 13, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Santa Ana Ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 XLT
i get tons of door rattles on all four doors when i drive. looks like the door latching on the hinge cause it won't shut all the way. can anybody help ?;)
 



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Likely the door strikers.
 






were are they located
 






The round things sticking out from the door jambs.
 






thanks man, bought a bushing kit for the door strikers but that didn't work. So i just used black electrical tape and works like a charm. no rattles or squeaks.
 






Well you replace the stickers. The bushings don't work as you have saw. They are not cheap though. They were $15 each from the dealer. The tape will work short term but will wear down.
 






I put the tape on last year and need to replace the tape on the driver's door.
 






Well you replace the stickers. The bushings don't work as you have saw. They are not cheap though. They were $15 each from the dealer. The tape will work short term but will wear down.
so what ur saying is that i have to buy the door strikers
 






Yep, but watch out because you need to align them back up when you replace. The best way is to outline the old striker with an pencil.
 






Yep, but watch out because you need to align them back up when you replace. The best way is to outline the old striker with an pencil.

thanks man, the only bummer part is that the strikers are 20 dollars at the dealership and the ones at the local autoparts store dont have the bushings.
 






I went to Lowes and bought a 4ft piece of 1/2" PEX tubing (plumbing) and cut my own bushings for all 4 doors and the tailgate. Cost was about $2.00. The PEX fits snugly over the striker post and is a little thicker than the original bushing, but the doors close really tight now.
 






I went to Lowes and bought a 4ft piece of 1/2" PEX tubing (plumbing) and cut my own bushings for all 4 doors and the tailgate. Cost was about $2.00. The PEX fits snugly over the striker post and is a little thicker than the original bushing, but the doors close really tight now.

Did you bring in a striker post and just try various tubing until you found one that fit? I'm thinking I need to do this for my driver's door because the plastic bushing is mangled (years of door sag :( )
 






I bought a striker from the dealer for $12.50 and did the math.. 6X12.5=!!!
Yes, I took the post and new bushing with me to find the best fit. I don't know how long this fix will last, but PEX is pretty rugged stuff. Since then, I've seen the bushings sold 4/bag at a parts store for about $6.00.
 






I went to Lowes and bought a 4ft piece of 1/2" PEX tubing (plumbing) and cut my own bushings for all 4 doors and the tailgate. Cost was about $2.00. The PEX fits snugly over the striker post and is a little thicker than the original bushing, but the doors close really tight now.


I tried the 1/2" PEX...the I.D. was fine, but the O.D. was too big for the latch to fully close. This led to the Door Ajar message, and the interior lights didnt go off. The only real way for the PEX to work for me is to turn down the outside of it....

Edit: I now see that this is the gen 1 forum, and i did this on a gen 2...D'OH!
 






Yo Potomac -

Got any pics of your PEX add-on? I have the same rattles, but not a clear picture of what you're doing?

Thanks.
 






Yo Potomac -

Got any pics of your PEX add-on? I have the same rattles, but not a clear picture of what you're doing?

Thanks.

At home depot you can find a 5ft section of 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD PEX tubing. Then you just cut off a portion long enough to replace the bushing that is there, or is supposed to be there
 












Potomac and Kevin -

OK. I bought the PEX tubing and tried it on the driver's side door latch striker. I had to split it down the middle to get it on (about 7/8" long). It fit extremely well. But even though the door shut nice and solid, I couldn't get it back open without tugging on the door facing. I don't get it. Either my latch or striker is not worn down enough or I need thinner tubing. I got the one that was 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD. In the meantime, I went with the tape method, but I'd like to get this cracked so that I won't have to replace it as often. Ideas? Advice?
 



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I found the bushings at a parts store 4/$6.00, but that was after I'd already made my own from pex. You could readjust the latch post to allow it to open and close properly and/or go find the right part at the parts store. The pex thing was just a way to do it on the cheap because I didn't want to spend $75.00. (See post #14 above)
 






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