Drain Plug over tightened, now cracked case | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Drain Plug over tightened, now cracked case

bdj04r

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February 24, 2006
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City, State
HANSON, MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 XLT
I purchased a 95 Explorer 4dr V6 4x4. Previous owner stated all fluids recently replaced… well to make a long story short. I found that the transfer case at the drain plug is cracked. This I’m told is from over tightening the tapered (NPT) plug to the point where the case has cracked.

What are my options to have this fixed?
Can the case be welded without having to remove it?
Is it aluminum?

I don't care about draining it in the future as I can still use the fill plug to suck it out.

Thanks all for any and all replies.
 



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can it be welded? yes
its not easy to weld at all, it will def have to come out of the truck and possibly remove that half of the t case cover.

sorry to hear this man.
I had a crack in my engine block from overtightenging the oil pressure fitting (tappered) JB weld got me by for over 2 years
JB weld MUST be used properly, meaning area = 100% clean and dry, mixed and applied well, then let it dry for at least 24 hours....
 






Believe the case is cast iron,will need to be brazed, as 410 said JB weld is great stuff.
You would need to drain it than I would use a dremal and cut a gullet along the crack.
Use carb or brake cleaner to try and blow any oil out of the crack (several times)
Than try JB, slap some duct tape over the JB until it cures.
 






dang I missed the duct tape trick when we did mine! at the end of the crack brett was using a toothpick to get the JB weld in there, I was AMAZED it held for over 2 years!

Cat iron? I think its aluminum mang :)
 












Are you sure its aluminum? For some reason I thought it was cast mag. if it was welding and brazing would be a big no no.
 






You can easely tig alum, but it needs to be uber clean, try the JB, but like I said, dremal a gullet along the crack, sort of like running a welding bead.
 






I would do what spindlecone said about the gullet. IF the crack, goes all the way thru to the opening, which I think it would. I would put some anti seize lubricant on the plug threads also. Or wrap all the threads in teflon plumbers tape including any area that may come in contact with the JB weld. This may help in backing it back out.
 






I think I would forget about using that drain plug anymore, JB weld it shut too....
 






used case is $150 from a junk yard. takes about 30 minutes or so to replace. then you dont have any worries about the case leaking or cracking more....
 






410Fortune said:
I think I would forget about using that drain plug anymore, JB weld it shut too....

Just to keep this never ending drain plug thread going. :confused: You could do what 410 says. But I would first try to keep the plug in. Then if it still leaks, then fill it it. But I would keep that teflon tape on it to help seal and so you won't to torque down so hard. Try to force the weld stuff into the crack and you should be allright.
 






EMG7895 said:
Are you sure its aluminum? For some reason I thought it was cast mag. if it was welding and brazing would be a big no no.
your dead on - its magnesium (it stamped/casted on the inside of the casing if i can remember correctly). At least thats how it was on the one that originally came in my 98 :)
 






is the transmission magnesium too? Both cases seem to be the same metal.
I was under the impression the trans case was aluminum??
 






410Fortune said:
is the transmission magnesium too? Both cases seem to be the same metal.
I was under the impression the trans case was aluminum??
I'm not sure - but I think your right - aluminum. But Borg Warner does switch between the two materials often (speaking of transfer cases). For example, the 2002 Exporer either came with a 4410 or a 4411 transfer case. The 4410 is aluminum and the 4411 is magnesium.
 






so if you hit magnesium with a mig welder will it go boom? hahaha
 






actually GMAW is one of the processes for welding magnesium :) the gas in this case is typically helium, argon, or a mix of the two.
 






I seriously doubt that any componant of an ex, is made of mag, is a costly material, only used for wgt reduction
 












It'll be an alloy either way.... not pure. That would be uber-dangerous and difficult to machine at best, not to mention relatively weak.

If it was my case, I'd be pulling it. Once it's cracked, it's not going to heal itself. IIRC, re-machined case-halves from Oasis Engineering aren't that expensive, and they're better than stock.

-Joe
 



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gijoecam said:
It'll be an alloy either way.... not pure. That would be uber-dangerous and difficult to machine at best, not to mention relatively weak.
Either way alloy or pure I wouldnt recommend brazing or welding on it, especiialy under the truck. Although it would look really cool from a distance :D
 






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