sfbayjay
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- January 22, 2008
- Messages
- 107
- Reaction score
- 3
- City, State
- Cleveland-ish, OH
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 XLT SOHC 4L V6
2002 Explorer XLT with Borg Warner 4411 transfer case (4WD switches on dash, not AWD).
Inspecting the source of a small transmission fluid leak yesterday, I found a hairline crack in the case just below the drain plug. Crack is about 1" long and starts right at the bottom of the threaded drain plug port.
I've done a lot of reading here and found that others have had this problem, perhaps due to over-tightening drain plug after a fluid change. Nice. (Seriously, Ford? Torque spec for drain plug is only 11 ft-lbs? You can apply more than that with just your pinky... Can you say flimsy?)
Anyway, I see that some folks may have tried to clean out the crack and then patch it using JB Weld as a temporary fix. See discussion of this here.
Has anyone had success (even temporary) with this approach? If you drain the case to Dremel the crack, how would you get everything clean enough (free of trans fluid) for the JB Weld to bond?
If anyone has done this and has advice, experience, or pointers, I'm all ears!
Alternative I'm considering is replacing the whole case with a salvaged unit, but would like to delay that expense awhile if at all possible as I've just spent a load of $$$ on rear struts/springs, brakes, ball joints, etc...
Inspecting the source of a small transmission fluid leak yesterday, I found a hairline crack in the case just below the drain plug. Crack is about 1" long and starts right at the bottom of the threaded drain plug port.
I've done a lot of reading here and found that others have had this problem, perhaps due to over-tightening drain plug after a fluid change. Nice. (Seriously, Ford? Torque spec for drain plug is only 11 ft-lbs? You can apply more than that with just your pinky... Can you say flimsy?)
Anyway, I see that some folks may have tried to clean out the crack and then patch it using JB Weld as a temporary fix. See discussion of this here.
Has anyone had success (even temporary) with this approach? If you drain the case to Dremel the crack, how would you get everything clean enough (free of trans fluid) for the JB Weld to bond?
If anyone has done this and has advice, experience, or pointers, I'm all ears!
Alternative I'm considering is replacing the whole case with a salvaged unit, but would like to delay that expense awhile if at all possible as I've just spent a load of $$$ on rear struts/springs, brakes, ball joints, etc...