Dreaded P1309

[FirefighterJose]

Got it fixed. Not much of an issue

 

[drdoom]

Jose have you pulled the old CMP sensor yet? Some are just Hall Effect switches, you can test with a multimeter. And I don't believe an alignment tool is used to install.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

check in rock auto, those 2 sensors look identical. you need the camshaft (CMP) not the crank (CKP)
i don't think there's an alignment for those, the ones you posted are for a different engine.

 

[Number4]

Getting to the cam sensor won't be fun. Have to remove the power steering pulley, pump and bracket to get to it.

Both sensors pop in and are held in place by a screw. No alignment.

If you had plug or coil issues you'd be getting P300 codes.

 

[Number4]

I was referring to the crank and cam. Your just interested in the cam, which there's just one.

What diagram are you looking for?

 

[Number4]

The bracket which is blocking the sensor, is sandwiched between the pump, a spacer and the engine.

So the pump has to come off to move the bracket. Pulley comes off to get to one of the pump bolts.

It's fun.

 

[Number4]

NAPA has their Echlin brand (which is Standard Motor Parts) for $23.
Better than Duralast.

 

[Number4]

Alright thanks. Since it's just the pulley and pump not much else for me to replace while I'm in there huh.

The pulley removal tool gouged my pulley while taking it off. It wouldn't go back on. Might have a replacement pulley on hand. Through Dorman they are fairly inexpensive.

To put the pulley back on, I had to use an 8x1.25 tap (I think) to cut out the rust corrosion on the pumps shaft threads.

 

[Number4]

I did mine while replacing my timing tensioner and guides, so it was already apart.

 

[FirefighterJose]

Alright, When is that recommended. I have 104k on mine.
Tensioner looks brand new.

 

[Number4]

Yours is low miles! Tensioner I'm referring to is in the engine, or under the timing cover. Don't need to worry about it unless you start getting a rattling noise at start up.

 

[Number4]

NAPA Gold filters are made by WIX, Motorcraft won't be as good, though fuel filters may be 'generic' in build across all brands.

 

[Number4]

If you can't and have to remove the PS pump, you don't need to remove the PS hose or drain any fluid. The bolt that the pulley is hiding, once broken loose, can be undone by hand while you support the weight of the pump (other two bolts being removed at this point.). As the bolt head neers the pump body, pull the PS pump away from the engine and then loosen the bolt more.

 

[FirefighterJose]

You are really a lot of help. Seriously, I appreciate it. Hopefully you stick around and help others.

Success!

I was able to trim the bracket, and pull the cam sensor out, rotate it and it is done!

I took a small video I'll upload later.

While It ma have been faster to remove the pump and stuff, (1 hr?)
I feel like I possibly avoided any other possible issues like you said, with the pulley, the threads for it into the block being rusted or corroded.

Plus, If it goes bad in the future it's a 5 minute replacement job.
It makes me crazy ford and engineers or car manufacturers in general purposely
make it dificult for simple repairs to get business in their shops.

But, for $25 Napa Cam Sensor and some time it's done.

Now for the real test. Go for a drive and see if it's any better.

 

[FirefighterJose]

Well, Replaced the spark plugs after the cam sensor and then a couple ignition coils and
it was great.

Oh well. Hopefully the owner enjoys it, threw it up on craigslist and it sold today.

 

[Number4]

How much you sell it for in Tennessee?

 

[FirefighterJose]

4,800. I'd say a good deal since it only had 104k. Around here explorers with 180k miles can be seen for sale for 5500.

 

[Number4]

Yeah, I've seen them listed all over the board.