Driver side upper control arm bolts & C/C adj plates

[koda2000]

Looks like that Ebay seller has the wrong NAPA (264-2953) part number. NAPA pic appears the same w/o the bracket plates.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCZ2642953

Don't know if it matters, but did the shop install the small washers under the eccentrics?

IDK. I never looked at it and my alignment guy didn't notice anything.

 

[swshawaii]

All flat washers on mine were installed under the nuts by the same shop that botched two alignment attempts. These are the Moog K80065 kits. As a result all four cams are bent because they were binding in the brackets while being adjusted. Somehow the second shop managed to get get everything green and holding with the tweaked cams.

 

[CDW6212R]

I think the flat washers are supposed to go inboard, not outboard with the nuts. They are to help the assembly rotate better I believe.

Those odd looking gold brackets do look like they could attach to the frame mounts in some way, but for what I don't know?

I need more positive camber in both my 99 and my 98 Limited, and both are near stock ride heights. I have the camber kits installed in both. I've been surprised since my first truck, my 98 Mercury, it's been lowered a lot since 2004 and always had good alignments. I think there is some variance in the frame mounting dimensions.

 

[pepehuertars]

Yesterday I went for an alignment to a new shop. I do not have a trusty alignment shop so I went there just because they look serious./

Anyway, the technician lifted the vehicle in a very hight end lift, looking great, ran the alignment machine, and the results showed negative camber and toe.

After 1:30 hours of fighting with the stock camber bolts, the shop needed to close and I got my car back with a slightly out of spec right front camber, just because the technician couldn't get it right with the stock hardware. I have to come back with it today to start all over.

Do I have to buy new hardware for this? Everything is stock in this 96 4x4 sport. The OEM tire size where R15, now (since early 2000's) it has R16. Is that a reason to get new hardware to get it aligned?

I was searching for bolts and found the 80065 Moog also, but reading about it here seems to be a bad idea.

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80065-...+Kit&qid=1551380657&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

 

[koda2000]

Toe is an easy adjustment by turning the tie-rod ends in/out. The camber may require the installation of adjustable camber bolts. This is not at all uncommon, especially on older vehicles. The OE hardware does not allow for a large amount or adjustment.

 

[swshawaii]

Pepe, if you're stock height consider the Moog K8674 camber washers instead of the K80065 bolt kits. The washers actually allow 1/8 degree more adjustment than the bolt kits. Stock bolts are much beefier than Moog's. Only possible issue may be removing the stock non adjustable square washers from the stock bolts. I've read they are pressed on to splines on the bolts.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...uspension,alignment+caster+/+camber+cam,13510

 

[allmyEXes]

Only possible issue may be removing the stock non adjustable square washers from the stock bolts. I've read they are pressed on to splines on the bolts.

They will come out. Just hold the square washer in a vise and tap the bolt with a pointed punch.

 

[pepehuertars]

Pepe, if you're stock height consider the Moog K8674 camber washers instead of the K80065 bolt kits. The washers actually allow 1/8 degree more adjustment than the bolt kits. Stock bolts are much beefier than Moog's. Only possible issue may be removing the stock non adjustable square washers from the stock bolts. I've read they are pressed on to splines on the bolts.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...uspension,alignment+caster+/+camber+cam,13510

Excelent!

I'll go for this then. I need 4 of this 2 washer kits to fit both LF and RF, right? 2 washers per bolt, 2 bolts per side...

 

[swshawaii]

TWO washers required for each bolt. So two kits for each side totaling eight washers.

^ EDIT- Wrong. See Don's post #31.

 

[pepehuertars]

TWO washers required for each bolt. So two kits for each side totaling eight washers.

Thank you very much

 

[CDW6212R]

Excelent!

I'll go for this then. I need 4 of this 2 washer kits to fit both LF and RF, right? 2 washers per bolt, 2 bolts per side...

No, only one washer kit is needed per side. One camber washer goes on each of the four UCA bolts.

 

[CDW6212R]

The bolt kits use the included washer on the bolt head side. The other camber washers go on the other end in place of the old square washers that have no adjustment. I think that's how it goes together, I forget each time until I have all the parts in front of me. I've tried both versions/parts, I wish one combination had more adjustment. My first, 98 Mercury has ben flawless to align, at any height. But both my 98 and 99 Explorer won't take a good alignment lowered at all, with the camber washers etc.

 

[pepehuertars]

The bolt kits use the included washer on the bolt head side. The other camber washers go on the other end in place of the old square washers that have no adjustment. I think that's how it goes together, I forget each time until I have all the parts in front of me. I've tried both versions/parts, I wish one combination had more adjustment. My first, 98 Mercury has ben flawless to align, at any height. But both my 98 and 99 Explorer won't take a good alignment lowered at all, with the camber washers etc.

So I don't have to remove the square plate from the bolt head side? That won't produce more adjustment just on 1 side of the UCA?

 

[CDW6212R]

It's the washer next to the nut which allows the most adjustment supposedly. We need to lay out in pictures the original bolts/hardware, and both of the new adjustment kits. I've used them both together, and the washers alone on two different trucks. The first one I did worked the best, but that truck the inherent camber was less negative I believe. Changing the ride height increases negative camber, thus needing more adjustment.

 

[koda2000]

Needing to buy 2 new tires soon, so getting back to this now...

I've been trying to locate the stock driver's side OE upper control arm parts so that I can have my wheel alignment guy return this vehicle to way it was before the other alignment shop screwed it up. Well, I cannot find the OE parts (bolts & nuts, square plates and egg-shaped camber plates) anywhere. If I lived near a pull-a-part I'd go looking for used parts, but the closest pull-a-part to me is about 70 miles away from where I live (dealing w/Atlanta traffic).

I looked at the beefier OE-style camber plates (representational photo below) I can buy new from places like RockAuto or eBay, and those would work, but my alignment guy tells me I need the OE style "D" shaped bolts to use with these. The bolts that come with the aftermarket adjustable caster/camber kits will not work with the OE style plates.

Correcting this issue is driving me nuts! I found a listing on eBay for a guy selling used '97-'01 Explorer upper control arm bolts, but he says they're off the passenger side. According to the photo of these the egg-shaped plates are welded under the bolt-heads, so I don't know if these are the same as the driver's side UCA bolts. I can't recall if the driver's side bolts have the egg-shaped plates welded to the bolts. If so I don't recall seeing that. Can anyone verify if the passenger side UCA bolts are the same as the driver's side?

Here's a photo of what the passenger side bolts he has look like:

So unless someone has a set of OE driver's side UCA bolts, nuts and alignment plates they're willing to part with it appears I'm going to have to go with another aftermarket adjustable camber kit (hopefully of better quality than what's on there now) double nut them with Loctite and hope for the best.

Moog kit below:
More Information for MOOG K80065

 

[CDW6212R]

The original bolts are the same, all four sets, as pictured looks right. The only adjustment in them is the minor movement due to those oblong washers on the heads. The aftermarket types have easier adjustments due to the square hole in the washers for a 3/8" drive tool. I agree the aftermarket bolts don't hold the adjustment as well, the material quality is lower.

 

[koda2000]

The original bolts are the same, all four sets, as pictured looks right. The only adjustment in them is the minor movement due to those oblong washers on the heads. The aftermarket types have easier adjustments due to the square hole in the washers for a 3/8" drive tool. I agree the aftermarket bolts don't hold the adjustment as well, the material quality is lower.

Thanks Don, I figured you'd know and I was 80% sure they were the same on both sides. I've ordered the used hardware and will order the beefier plates if my alignment guy finds they're needed. Hopefully this will finally get this tire wear issue back under control.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd clean the pockets where the control arms and bolts/washers go.

My first truck was cleaner with little corrosion or gunk, my last two were dirtier versions. Having the bolts get loose is a big deal, I've only had it happen once so far, and it ate the edge of one tire a bit. I'm about to do my 99 again so hopefully I can find a little more camber adjustment this time.

 

[shucker1]

Moog kit below:
More Information for MOOG K80065

Looking at the picture the bolts appear to be nothing more than a grade 8 bolt fly cut on one side.

I wonder if you can get a grade 10.8 same size and fly cut. Then put more torque on it?

 

[koda2000]

Looking at the picture the bolts appear to be nothing more than a grade 8 bolt fly cut on one side.

I wonder if you can get a grade 10.8 same size and fly cut. Then put more torque on it?

I found a set of used OE bolts/nuts on eBay, which I bought this morning, so I'm going to use those. Also I ordered a beefy set of new Raybestos adjustment plates on RA and have ordered those, though I'm not sure I will need them. It depends what my alignment guy says. I'm going to, clean the pockets, as CDW suggested, Loctite the nuts and add grade 8 jam nuts to the OE nuts. I think the recommended torque is 100 FP's. if doing all this doesn't fix the problem I give up. I'm curious to closely examine the cheap crap that's on there now.