Driving with a coolant leak from the timing cover

[donalds]

What's an elite membership?

Its a paid membership to this forum lots of great perks

 

[98FordLove]

Yeah, give it some time to seal up. It can certainly help build pressure and get hotter. Leaks also go both ways and allow air pockets in. To fully seal my cylinder head it took about 100 miles. That is a pretty worst case scenario because the cylinder is trying to push coolant out, vs an external leak.
Every day the misfires got less and less on that cyl, until there was like 1 or 2 on a trip (normal).

How bad was your cylinder leak? Does K-seal clog up the water pump or radiator down the road? Still trying to read on how this stuff seals off stuff.

 

[96eb96]

How bad was your cylinder leak? Does K-seal clog up the water pump or radiator down the road? Still trying to read on how this stuff seals off stuff.

Bad. Cracked plugs, stumbling, maybe getting close to hydrolock. I was thinking of getting rid of it, because it has rust. Not worth such a major repair, since it would need a set of heads, even DIY. I got it with over 100K, so who knows what happened before, it may have been overheated. I have no issues from it. I don't even see the product in the coolant. According to the directions, it is ok to drain the coolant, because it plugs the holes.

It works in two ways. For something like a cracked head, there is liquid silica that wicks into the hole. The combustion heat melts the silica in the crack and when it dries it is probably stronger than the iron. There is also ginger root (I heard also pepper does this) that helps plug external leaks. It chemically acts when it gets exposed to air on the other side of the crack to expand and plug the hole.

I never had issues with clogged radiators. I mean, if you pour this into 10yo rusty coolant, then you could have a problem. Its not ideal but it is a kind of ok "used as directed" thing. I can't say it will work 100%, or never cause issues, but if you are using it, the repair is probably much more than what the truck is worth. It is also Preventative maintenance (e.g. a leaking freeze plug)

 

[98FordLove]

Bad. Cracked plugs, stumbling, maybe getting close to hydrolock. I was thinking of getting rid of it, because it has rust. Not worth such a major repair, since it would need a set of heads, even DIY. I got it with over 100K, so who knows what happened before, it may have been overheated. I have no issues from it. I don't even see the product in the coolant. According to the directions, it is ok to drain the coolant, because it plugs the holes.

It works in two ways. For something like a cracked head, there is liquid silica that wicks into the hole. The combustion heat melts the silica in the crack and when it dries it is probably stronger than the iron. There is also ginger root (I heard also pepper does this) that helps plug external leaks. It chemically acts when it gets exposed to air on the other side of the crack to expand and plug the hole.

I never had issues with clogged radiators. I mean, if you pour this into 10yo rusty coolant, then you could have a problem. Its not ideal but it is a kind of ok "used as directed" thing. I can't say it will work 100%, or never cause issues, but if you are using it, the repair is probably much more than what the truck is worth. It is also Preventative maintenance (e.g. a leaking freeze plug)

Sounds serious, glad the K seal fixed it for you. How long ago was that? And the repair from K seal has held up today? I had no idea K seal works that well. I've read online that some people have had their leak return over time and had to use a second bottle. But will see how it goes with mine.

These people online who did get clogged rads, I wonder what caused it. Probably old 10 year old coolant like you say. From the sounds of it K seal is fine leaving in with the coolant even after the repair is done.

 

[98FordLove]

Got really dark brown stuff dripping down at the same rate as before. Perhaps burnt coolant? Can't tell. What would cause coolant to turn dark brown if so? Otherwise I see no greenstuff dripping down anymore.

Top of the timing cover is dry and super clean.

 

[96eb96]

I would say there are 10K miles on it, maybe 4 years ago? Not my primary vehicle, but it always starts and goes with no problem. It idles well. It is very reliable.

A second treatment could be necessary, there are many different types of leaks in a coolant system. Even well done repairs can leak after time.

Got really dark brown stuff dripping down at the same rate as before. Perhaps burnt coolant? Can't tell. What would cause coolant to turn dark brown if so? Otherwise I see no greenstuff dripping down anymore.

Top of the timing cover is dry and super clean.

Oil could leak from there too. Plenty of places for oil to leak.

 

[98FordLove]

I would say there are 10K miles on it, maybe 4 years ago? Not my primary vehicle, but it always starts and goes with no problem. It idles well. It is very reliable.

A second treatment could be necessary, there are many different types of leaks in a coolant system. Even well done repairs can leak after time.

Oil could leak from there too. Plenty of places for oil to leak.

4 years is really good for the k seal to work that long.

I talked to K seal and they said a second bottle won't hurt it at all. I'll put it in tomorrow.

But if this is oil then why wouldn't it leak a couple of days ago when the coolant was? Unless the k seal caused it.

I check my rad today, cold and surprisingly the coolant level was still up to the neck. Overflow tank was the same level as yesterday so it looks like the K seal is working, or starting to. Today I had noticeably hotter heater than yesterday and the day prior. Overwhelmingly hot like you would expect from any full coolant change.

But this oil leak (if that's what it is) I don't get. I hope the k seal didn't all of a sudden start it.

Even if a repair is well done,how can leaks still remain? I checked my oil hot and it looks good, no coolant bubbles or grey foam. My guess is the K seal caused the oil leak because it wasn't leaking oil yesterday.

 

[96eb96]

4 years is really good for the k seal to work that long.

I talked to K seal and they said a second bottle won't hurt it at all. I'll put it in tomorrow.

But if this is oil then why wouldn't it leak a couple of days ago when the coolant was? Unless the k seal caused it.

I check my rad today, cold and surprisingly the coolant level was still up to the neck. Overflow tank was the same level as yesterday so it looks like the K seal is working, or starting to. Today I had noticeably hotter heater than yesterday and the day prior. Overwhelmingly hot like you would expect from any full coolant change.

But this oil leak (if that's what it is) I don't get. I hope the k seal didn't all of a sudden start it.

Even if a repair is well done,how can leaks still remain? I checked my oil hot and it looks good, no coolant bubbles or grey foam. My guess is the K seal caused the oil leak because it wasn't leaking oil yesterday.

Kseal cannot cause an oil leak. It is an entirely different sealed system. If there was a coolant to oil leak k-seal would seal it.

I can't say for sure it is oil. But what they took apart certainly DOES seal oil and you say it is brown BUT, it could also be coolant with K/seal that is brown and that leaked out to seal????? Hard to say from afar. Some coolant will leak before it seals, and it could be dark.'

I wouldn't put the whole bottle in either. Shake well, Put in 1/2, and if it needs more, you can always add. You also have some in recovery that will eventually get in the system.

 

[98FordLove]

Kseal cannot cause an oil leak. It is an entirely different sealed system. If there was a coolant to oil leak k-seal would seal it.

I can't say for sure it is oil. But what they took apart certainly DOES seal oil and you say it is brown BUT, it could also be coolant with K/seal that is brown and that leaked out to seal????? Hard to say from afar. Some coolant will leak before it seals, and it could be dark.'

I wouldn't put the whole bottle in either. Shake well, Put in 1/2, and if it needs more, you can always add. You also have some in recovery that will eventually get in the system.

Good to hear that K-seal can't cause an oil leak. It's just weird that yesterday when I glanced under, I saw barely any coolant coming out and today I see brown stuff coming out at the same rate as the days prior. The only thing I did today was put a bit more coolant in the overflow tank so that it sits a bit over the max line because even at the max line, there isn't very much coolant in the tank. But don't think that would cause the big change in coolant color.

I am almost 100% confident it's coolant, it just turned brown. Maybe there is rust in my engine or my coolant is boiling and has to be changed out again?

Did some coolant leak out from yours once you put it in before it sealed it up and stopped leaking?

 

[96eb96]

Good to hear that K-seal can't cause an oil leak. It's just weird that yesterday when I glanced under, I saw barely any coolant coming out and today I see brown stuff coming out at the same rate as the days prior. The only thing I did today was put a bit more coolant in the overflow tank so that it sits a bit over the max line because even at the max line, there isn't very much coolant in the tank. But don't think that would cause the big change in coolant color.

I am almost 100% confident it's coolant, it just turned brown. Maybe there is rust in my engine or my coolant is boiling and has to be changed out again?

Did some coolant leak out from yours once you put it in before it sealed it up and stopped leaking?

I had an internal leak so it is different. I doubt coolant gets rusty right away. Unless the engine was a total mess before. K-seal could make coolant brown. Depending on the situation it may need some hot and cold cycles to fully seal.

 

[98FordLove]

I had an internal leak so it is different. I doubt coolant gets rusty right away. Unless the engine was a total mess before. K-seal could make coolant brown. Depending on the situation it may need some hot and cold cycles to fully seal.

I know when I mix K seal into the green coolant it does turn a light brown. K seal did recommend to do as many hot/cold cycles over the next few days as I can. I guess it's the hot/cold cycles that gets the kseal working and not just the hot cycles.

There are positive signs in that yesterday I had noticeably hotter heat after I put the Kseal in and drove it, and today I have the hottest heat you could want in any truck. It was perfect. I let it idle for 25mins first. It put out more heat than my other car. So that tells me that if the system was still letting in air into the system, there is no way I could get heat near that hot. So it is sealing, probably just need to give it more time so I can do more hot/cold cycles. That's what Kseal said too.

Just going by comparison, when I picked up the truck last Monday night from the mechanic, even after a 30min drive I was barely able to get the truck hot. Had it on max and the heat was very neutral, was freezing driving home. Now it's 10 times hotter. And that's not because I changed the coolant because I didn't. It has the exact same stuff in it right now as it did Monday night.

I would be surprised if my coolant was dirty and had to be changed. The kseal wouldn't all of a sudden contaminate it. It was clean as a whistle before.

Another thing it could be is my oil pan gasket leaking. The first mechanic who did the repairs, also changed my ATF gasket because that was leaking really bad. And he said that my oil pan had oil on it but because I had so much oil on the underside of the car that he didn't know if it was just from the valve covers leaking or if it was the pan. So he hit it with degreaser, cleaned it up and said to give it a week to see how it looks. So that is very likely a possibility too, that it's my oil pan leaking.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

@98FordLove

have you looked into Elite membership on this Forum?

it would be a nice way for you to contribute and give something back here...

Good luck with repairs and maintenance.

 

[96eb96]

I know when I mix K seal into the green coolant it does turn a light brown. K seal did recommend to do as many hot/cold cycles over the next few days as I can. I guess it's the hot/cold cycles that gets the kseal working and not just the hot cycles.

There are positive signs in that yesterday I had noticeably hotter heat after I put the Kseal in and drove it, and today I have the hottest heat you could want in any truck. It was perfect. I let it idle for 25mins first. It put out more heat than my other car. So that tells me that if the system was still letting in air into the system, there is no way I could get heat near that hot. So it is sealing, probably just need to give it more time so I can do more hot/cold cycles. That's what Kseal said too.

Just going by comparison, when I picked up the truck last Monday night from the mechanic, even after a 30min drive I was barely able to get the truck hot. Had it on max and the heat was very neutral, was freezing driving home. Now it's 10 times hotter. And that's not because I changed the coolant because I didn't. It has the exact same stuff in it right now as it did Monday night.

I would be surprised if my coolant was dirty and had to be changed. The kseal wouldn't all of a sudden contaminate it. It was clean as a whistle before.

Another thing it could be is my oil pan gasket leaking. The first mechanic who did the repairs, also changed my ATF gasket because that was leaking really bad. And he said that my oil pan had oil on it but because I had so much oil on the underside of the car that he didn't know if it was just from the valve covers leaking or if it was the pan. So he hit it with degreaser, cleaned it up and said to give it a week to see how it looks. So that is very likely a possibility too, that it's my oil pan leaking.

Sometimes it is a good idea to run a flush to clean your cooling system, Motorcraft VC-1 - but at this point, maybe not.

This engine - honestly - can take a bit more neglect than some newer engines. Not that that is ever a good thing. If you had an SOHC explorer with issues, the only advice with problems would be push it off a cliff.

You could have oil come out of the crank seal too. That is not uncommon.

 

[donalds]

I put k seal in my new engine and ALL NEW cooling system as a preventative measure
That was a couple years back

 

[98FordLove]

Sometimes it is a good idea to run a flush to clean your cooling system, Motorcraft VC-1 - but at this point, maybe not.

This engine - honestly - can take a bit more neglect than some newer engines. Not that that is ever a good thing. If you had an SOHC explorer with issues, the only advice with problems would be push it off a cliff.

You could have oil come out of the crank seal too. That is not uncommon.

I would hate to do a flush but if I need to I will. I'm guessing it won't ruin the repairs that the k seal has already made? But K seal just got back saying that the change of coolant color to dark brown is perfectly normal. So still 90% certain it's coolant and not oil. Just took it for another run late last night and again just now. I'm going to do 3 runs a day over the next few days on this to get as many hot/cold cycles in as I can as K seal suggested. It being -30C here, the truck literally gets stone cold within 3-4 hours.

And I just checked my rad this morning with it cold and surprisingly the coolant is still right up to the neck. The coolant shows green as lime right at the rad neck. Overflow tank is at the same same level where I put it at yesterday. If this thing was indeed leaking coolant, how is the coolant levels able to remain the same at both the rad and overflow tank? You would think especially at the rate it was losing yesterday that the level would show a noticeable drop in the rad even after just one drive. That's why the 10% still makes me think it could be oil and not coolant.

I'm considering putting off my appointment with my mechanic for this Tuesday and pushing it to later in the week so that I can give this a few more days to see if it will seal up or not.

 

[98FordLove]

I put k seal in my new engine and ALL NEW cooling system as a preventative measure
That was a couple years back

When did you put in a new engine and rad in yours? You used 1 bottle of Kseal? And it's still holding up today?

 

[96eb96]

I would hate to do a flush but if I need to I will. I'm guessing it won't ruin the repairs that the k seal has already made? But K seal just got back saying that the change of coolant color to dark brown is perfectly normal. So still 90% certain it's coolant and not oil. Just took it for another run late last night and again just now. I'm going to do 3 runs a day over the next few days on this to get as many hot/cold cycles in as I can as K seal suggested. It being -30C here, the truck literally gets stone cold within 3-4 hours.

And I just checked my rad this morning with it cold and surprisingly the coolant is still right up to the neck. The coolant shows green as lime right at the rad neck. Overflow tank is at the same same level where I put it at yesterday. If this thing was indeed leaking coolant, how is the coolant levels able to remain the same at both the rad and overflow tank? You would think especially at the rate it was losing yesterday that the level would show a noticeable drop in the rad even after just one drive. That's why the 10% still makes me think it could be oil and not coolant.

I'm considering putting off my appointment with my mechanic for this Tuesday and pushing it to later in the week so that I can give this a few more days to see if it will seal up or not.

Yeah, I think maybe 10 hot/cold cycles before taking any action. It may plug part of the hole, then another tiny leak may happen, then it plugs that. For the head repair it had to be idled for an hour with no plug. I think you understand why now. It may seal with normal driving eventually because it seep down on the intake/exhaust stroke, but the compression stroke tries to undo the repair. Your external repair is different though.

These engines also need up to 7500 miles believe it or not for the coolant level to fully stabilize (always good to check coolant for at least a week after a service). This is per the factory manual, maybe owners manual too. They have weird issues with air and steam formation.

 

[96eb96]

I would hate to do a flush but if I need to I will. I'm guessing it won't ruin the repairs that the k seal has already made? But K seal just got back saying that the change of coolant color to dark brown is perfectly normal. So still 90% certain it's coolant and not oil. Just took it for another run late last night and again just now. I'm going to do 3 runs a day over the next few days on this to get as many hot/cold cycles in as I can as K seal suggested. It being -30C here, the truck literally gets stone cold within 3-4 hours.

And I just checked my rad this morning with it cold and surprisingly the coolant is still right up to the neck. The coolant shows green as lime right at the rad neck. Overflow tank is at the same same level where I put it at yesterday. If this thing was indeed leaking coolant, how is the coolant levels able to remain the same at both the rad and overflow tank? You would think especially at the rate it was losing yesterday that the level would show a noticeable drop in the rad even after just one drive. That's why the 10% still makes me think it could be oil and not coolant.

I'm considering putting off my appointment with my mechanic for this Tuesday and pushing it to later in the week so that I can give this a few more days to see if it will seal up or not.

I don't think a flush will hurt the k-seal repairs, and in the worse case you can add another bottle. If you have lime green coolant, probably best to leave alone.

 

[donalds]

When did you put in a new engine and rad in yours? You used 1 bottle of Kseal? And it's still holding up today?

3 years

 

[98FordLove]

Yeah, I think maybe 10 hot/cold cycles before taking any action. It may plug part of the hole, then another tiny leak may happen, then it plugs that. For the head repair it had to be idled for an hour with no plug. I think you understand why now. It may seal with normal driving eventually because it seep down on the intake/exhaust stroke, but the compression stroke tries to undo the repair. Your external repair is different though.

These engines also need up to 7500 miles believe it or not for the coolant level to fully stabilize (always good to check coolant for at least a week after a service). This is per the factory manual, maybe owners manual too. They have weird issues with air and steam formation.

10 cycles wow, well I will give it a try. Is that how many cycles it took for yours to seal? Did you only have to idle yours once when you first put in the K seal or did you do that everyday until it sealed? I am idling it right now at cold start for about 10 minutes but only because it's below -30C here and too cold to get in right away. If it helps I will even idle it for 25 mins like I did yesterday.

7500 miles for the coolant level to stabilize? I didn't know that, that's quite awhile. I'm just baffled how I am not losing any coolant in the rad or overflow tank if I am indeed leaking coolant. Coolant loss should show up right away. Like if you are losing say 1/4L of coolant in one 30min drive, then that 1/4L loss will (or should) show up in the rad the next day.