Driving with a coolant leak from the timing cover

[98FordLove]

This guy did the JB weld ...sounded like this version: LINK
And it was still dry / holding after 2 months as read in comment section....maybe reply to that comment and ask if still holding ... or how long it held until he replaced pan...assuming he eventually did...

Looks like that guy did a really good job.

 

[98FordLove]

I repaired a sizeable oil pan puncture on a V8 with RTV ultra black. Stopped it in its tracks. No leaks. Had to drain the oil and clean it REALLY well though.

Nice, good to hear this. Hope mine holds up over time. So far it looks good.

 

[98FordLove]

Putting in high mileage 5W-30 oil in today and will add some Lucas Oil stabilizer in it. Should help. If I'm monitoring my oil everyday for the next few weeks, want to put the best possible oil inside for this case.

It looked good from this morning, just 2-3 drops on the cardboard from the truck sitting for 15+ hours. Before I would get 10-15 drops.

 

[98FordLove]

Is there such thing as applying too much silicone? Like layering it. I may put more on tomorrow.

But I notice after time, it will still feel a bit soft, is that normal? I guess this stuff doesn't get hard as a rock like KSeal does.

Also got some Lucas Oil stabilizer and switched to high mileage oil today.

Tempted to try out the Lucas Stop Oil leak.

 

[96eb96]

Is there such thing as applying too much silicone? Like layering it. I may put more on tomorrow.

But I notice after time, it will still feel a bit soft, is that normal? I guess this stuff doesn't get hard as a rock like KSeal does.

Also got some Lucas Oil stabilizer and switched to high mileage oil today.

Tempted to try out the Lucas Stop Oil leak.

Make sure it is very clean. Maybe run a wire wheel or sandpaper on the metal and some alcohol.

 

[98FordLove]

Make sure it is very clean. Maybe run a wire wheel or sandpaper on the metal and some alcohol.

Darn. And from what I've been told silicone is pretty much a one shot application, will need to remove and re-clean if you want to apply more.

I just put the high mileage oil in and curious to see if it will help (it did in a previous car I had years ago with seeping leaks) but this one is in the oil pan so it's different.

I'm debating if I should just leave it for the time being and see how much oil I lose in a week and see how long the red silicone holds up for.

Or just pay my mech the $850cdn he quoted me to take off the balancer, wire brush everything and clean everything extremely well including the oil pan and time cover gasket area and re-seal the cracks and the timing cover gasket area and replace the crankshaft seal and balancer and get it over with. The crankshaft seal is just seeping, the high mileage oil may be able to stop this. He did mention about the bushings up front (in the centre right below the motor) and how they will wear quicker from the oil. Which bushings are these? Hope not control arm.

Since both my valve cover gaskets and the timing cover gasket were leaking prior to this big repair, from the looks of it, the oil was coming down from the same area and down to the same area, so this extra wear on those bushings has already been happening for the past 2 years since I got the truck.

Before the silicone application, the oil was literally coming out of the cracks at a very fast rate like hot syrup and it would come out right away. Clean up all the oil, start the car and oil is flowing out within a second. I would get fast drops to the floor and about 2-3 drops every 1-2 seconds. Right now after the silicone, it is just seeping. I just ran the truck while hot and watched under it for a full 5 minutes and I didn't see a single drop come down.

But my mechanic is right, to really clean and access that area, the balancer and belt unfortunately need to come out first. You are just too limited in how close you can get to the area without removing them and you would have to clean and apply everything with a brush.

 

[C420sailor]

sealant typically doesn’t adhere to sealant.

 

[98FordLove]

I got a second opinion and another look at it and it looks like the red silicone is holding up the cracks on the oil pan. There was no oil coming out of it. Totally shocked. So no point messing with this if it's working.

The crankseal however is leaking and wondering if I should just leave it and see if my high mileage oil in it now will lessen it.

Really don't want to pay to have the balancer off again. Sure they can use the leave instead of putting on a new balancer.

How serious is a crank seal leak?

Should I put in some Lucas stop oil leak?

 

[98FordLove]

Going to put a bottle of this in tomorrow, reviews look really good. Chose it over the Lucas because the Lucas is way too thick and unlike the Lucas, this is a one time application like the K seal. Plus the amount of this is much less than the Lucas.

 

[98FordLove]

So I just may go about replacing my crankshaft seal as my mechanic cut me a break and gave me a very good price for it, $100cdn.

The only thing is, does the timing cover need to come off to get the seal replaced? If so I would be against this and likely won't do the job just because then I would have to replace the gasket again.

Balancers here take 2 weeks to arrive so I may just order a speedy sleeve instead.

 

[96eb96]

So I just may go about replacing my crankshaft seal as my mechanic cut me a break and gave me a very good price for it, $100cdn.

The only thing is, does the timing cover need to come off to get the seal replaced? If so I would be against this and likely won't do the job just because then I would have to replace the gasket again.

Balancers here take 2 weeks to arrive so I may just order a speedy sleeve instead.

Fair price.
This job should be less than an hour for a pro, maybe 2-3 for a DIY.
NO it absolutely does not need to come off. Don't wake a sleeping dragon.
The only hard part is getting the balancer bolt off, and a good tech will know how to do it in 30 sec. Some do it by cranking the starter with the breaker bar on the bolt, against the frame. Or a compact impact.

Those sealers are 50/50 if they work, but unlikely to hurt this engine.

 

[98FordLove]

Fair price.
This job should be less than an hour for a pro, maybe 2-3 for a DIY.
NO it absolutely does not need to come off. Don't wake a sleeping dragon.
The only hard part is getting the balancer bolt off, and a good tech will know how to do it in 30 sec. Some do it by cranking the starter with the breaker bar on the bolt, against the frame. Or a compact impact.

Those sealers are 50/50 if they work, but unlikely to hurt this engine.

Thanks.

Since you say that i should replace the balancer too while at it (and my mech says I should too when he checked it out last Tuesday, as it's likely got damage but he won't know until he gets it off). Even if it's still good, I should just replace it? Rockauto has their best one at $108cdn shipped and I can get it this Thursday. Local stores all would need to special order (and wouldn't get it till much later) and they all wanted $200-300. Even if my balancer now doesn;t have any cracks on it, it likely has wear on the threads. It is 25 years old and since it will be off, may as well put a new one on?

Nobody here stocks the sleeves and since they are $75 and a new balancer is $108, may as well just get a balancer instead of the sleeve.

I will also replace the idler pulley like someone in this thread suggested. It's still stock and though I replaced the tensioner just a couple weeks back, I'm surprised the mechanic didn't suggest to replace the idler pulley too since it's the same assembly. Belt is still good though, I know that for sure.

Good to hear about the timing cover not needing to come off. Will apply some lube for when the new seal goes in.

I don't remember my crankseal leaking prior to this big repair (it could have been but don't recall). So either it was and the hack mechanic didn't notice that it needed to be replaced or he damaged it himself when re-installing the pulley.

I also got my hood latch fixed at no cost last night. It wasn't damaged, the setting for it was just too low so the hood actuaally saw lower than the fender when closed. Couple bolts and it now sits perfect and I can close it normally now.

 

[96eb96]

Thanks.

Since you say that i should replace the balancer too while at it (and my mech says I should too when he checked it out last Tuesday, as it's likely got damage but he won't know until he gets it off). Even if it's still good, I should just replace it? Rockauto has their best one at $108cdn shipped and I can get it this Thursday. Local stores all would need to special order (and wouldn't get it till much later) and they all wanted $200-300. Even if my balancer now doesn;t have any cracks on it, it likely has wear on the threads. It is 25 years old and since it will be off, may as well put a new one on?

Nobody here stocks the sleeves and since they are $75 and a new balancer is $108, may as well just get a balancer instead of the sleeve.

I will also replace the idler pulley like someone in this thread suggested. It's still stock and though I replaced the tensioner just a couple weeks back, I'm surprised the mechanic didn't suggest to replace the idler pulley too since it's the same assembly. Belt is still good though, I know that for sure.

Good to hear about the timing cover not needing to come off. Will apply some lube for when the new seal goes in.

I don't remember my crankseal leaking prior to this big repair (it could have been but don't recall). So either it was and the hack mechanic didn't notice that it needed to be replaced or he damaged it himself when re-installing the pulley.

I also got my hood latch fixed at no cost last night. It wasn't damaged, the setting for it was just too low so the hood actuaally saw lower than the fender when closed. Couple bolts and it now sits perfect and I can close it normally now.

If you replaced the tensioner leave it. The idler pulley is alone and separate, toward the top of the engine. It just goes one day with out warning if it was never replaced. I think I joined the forum (see date) because of that incident :lol:. I saw a bunch of others back then too.

Balancers on these motors rarely if ever fail. I think some of the SOHCs might. Wear on the threads? No threads.
Was it diagnosed bad? Were you told to change it? If yours is good, unless you get a factory part, maybe best to leave alone. It should have no problem going back.

If he took the front cover off, not hard to damage the seal if you aren't careful. The seal is in the front cover, but you don't have to take it off (makes it a bit easier maybe). Once the balancer comes off you can pry the old seal, lube up, tap the new seal in. All done.

 

[98FordLove]

I'm getting pissed off now. Had the check engine light come back on today. Took it to my mech and he pulled the code

P0420 the catalyst system efficiency is below the threshold.

He said it's not serious and not to worry about it. He cleared the code but it came back on later the day

If my cat is going bad then no way I am replacing it, I will just get rid of the truck. I stopped by the store to get cat convertor cleaner, filled up my gas tank and dumped the cleaner into the fuel tank.

Check engine still on. Trying to clear this check engine light.

I show no signs of a failed cat.

It could be an exhaust leak, wouldn't surprise me, the exhaust rattles on it and it's old.

It could be the o2 sensor (still stock).

 

[98FordLove]

If you replaced the tensioner leave it. The idler pulley is alone and separate, toward the top of the engine. It just goes one day with out warning if it was never replaced. I think I joined the forum (see date) because of that incident :lol:. I saw a bunch of others back then too.

Balancers on these motors rarely if ever fail. I think some of the SOHCs might. Wear on the threads? No threads.
Was it diagnosed bad? Were you told to change it? If yours is good, unless you get a factory part, maybe best to leave alone. It should have no problem going back.

If he took the front cover off, not hard to damage the seal if you aren't careful. The seal is in the front cover, but you don't have to take it off (makes it a bit easier maybe). Once the balancer comes off you can pry the old seal, lube up, tap the new seal in. All done.

I replaced the tensioner but when I picked up the idler pulley today, and mine is still stock. I still get a slight sqeak when idling and it's not from the belt or new tensioner.

My mech earlier this week said the balancer on it now likely needs to be replaced but he won't know until he gets it off. I did order one from Rock Auto today and geez it already shipped. I would rather have one on me if needing a new one when doing the repair and if I don't then I will ship it back. But then I found out Rock auto has a restocking fee, hopefully it's not much. I do get a slight on/off, on/off vibration from the motor and truck when running every 4-5 seconds or show, ever so slight. Was told this could be from the balancer. Can mostly feel it in the steering wheel.

Not sure what the first mechanic did but he messed up the crank seal in it now, it's still stock too. It could have leaked before but I don't ever recall seeing it.

 

[C420sailor]

Prob a bad sensor. Upstream sensors set the A/F in closed loop, downstream determine cat efficiency. IOW, the downstream ones make the EPA happy.

 

[98FordLove]

Prob a bad sensor. Upstream sensors set the A/F in closed loop, downstream determine cat efficiency. IOW, the downstream ones make the EPA happy.

Are these the O2 sensors? Looks like this truck has two. Too bad there's no way to test them if they are faulty or not.

Either I replace them or I just get my mech to cut my cat out and put a straight pipe on it. No way am I replacing the cat.

 

[96eb96]

I'm getting pissed off now. Had the check engine light come back on today. Took it to my mech and he pulled the code

P0420 the catalyst system efficiency is below the threshold.

He said it's not serious and not to worry about it. He cleared the code but it came back on later the day

If my cat is going bad then no way I am replacing it, I will just get rid of the truck. I stopped by the store to get cat convertor cleaner, filled up my gas tank and dumped the cleaner into the fuel tank.

Check engine still on. Trying to clear this check engine light.

I show no signs of a failed cat.

It could be an exhaust leak, wouldn't surprise me, the exhaust rattles on it and it's old.

It could be the o2 sensor (still stock).

96 also has a TSB to flash the computer for the cat converter. Your mechanic can look it up.
but PLEASE get this diagnosed first. It could be an o2 sensor like others said. You are certainly right about a exhaust leak. Check the Y pipe near the shields. I bought a welder to fix mine, I was way ahead of the game for what places were asking. Noise could also be loose shields.

Cats fail because of misfires or coolant. Or in my case, ROT from the upstate NY salt fetish.

If you don't have emissions tests there, just ignore it.

 

[98FordLove]

96 also has a TSB to flash the computer for the cat converter. Your mechanic can look it up.
but PLEASE get this diagnosed first. It could be an o2 sensor like others said. You are certainly right about a exhaust leak. Check the Y pipe near the shields. I bought a welder to fix mine, I was way ahead of the game for what places were asking. Noise could also be loose shields.

Cats fail because of misfires or coolant. Or in my case, ROT from the upstate NY salt fetish.

If you don't have emissions tests there, just ignore it.

Don't think flashing the computer for the cat at this point on a 25 year old truck will do anything.

Too bad there's no way to tell if the O2 sensors are bad without replacing them. Looks like we have two and they aren't cheap. Just don't want to replace it only to find out, nothing was wrong with the sensors.

My first route is likely to just get my mech to remove the cat and straight pipe it. Looks like 2 cats on this truck. What did the welder do to fix yours?

 

[CDW6212R]

Replace the O2 sensors, and shop around for them. Bosch sensors are good, and often Rock Auto or Amazon are great for them. They don't need to be tested unless they were brand new, they should all be replaced at this age. Don't cut the cats out, that's a bad path to go down, with multiple new issues. Fix the emissions system.

The balancer $75 sleeve products, that is only for a worn crank seal groove. Those are rarely ever needed, only when idiots don't keep good oil in the engine, and the filth wears a groove in the crank at the front seal surface. Usually any front or rear seal leak, is from the seal becoming old and brittle.

The balancers also hardly need replacing, typically when very old, but it's good insurance to replace them. It's bad when they come apart.

Oil stop leak products rarely work at all. Some may reduce leaking a little, but don't expect much.

Don't use silicone for anything, use only RTV. Silicone is for aquariums and home exterior caulking. Buy only automotive top brand RTV, such as Ultra Black, or grey, copper, red, blue. Those RTV products are very durable, silicone gets hard and brittle with heat or sunlight. I have Ultra Copper and black on my chimney right now, from 150+ years ago. It's tough and barely flexible, but not letting go until you make it let go.

You can add RTV on top of anything which is clean, you can spread more onto other RTV(or silicone, but I'd get any of that tossed in the trash).