Engine Swap.

[maowens85]

Ok so I have a 1995 Ford Explorer XLT that I just put an engine from a 1996 into it. I have all the wiring, hoses, vacuum lines, bolts, ect... in the right places I think. I have never done a major engine swap like this before so it was a learning process for me and still is. From the 1995 to the 1996 they changed the engine control computer. I put a new one in that seems to work. My problem is that Im ready to kick the tires and light the fires but I get no juice I turn the key all the chimes and light do their usual thing but trying to start I get nothing not even a click from the starter its acting like the starter isnt getting power my volt meter says Im hot on the starter but still I get no kick. I do however get an odd thing that happens when I turn the key all the way over to start, I get one chime and the doors lock then unlock. Anyone know whats going on?

 

[Dono]

Welcome to the Site!

I'm not much help here, but do the lights dim when you turn the ignition key to 'start' position?

 

[maowens85]

A little bit yes I suppose

 

[Dono]

So, no load on the starter when you turn the key? Whats your thoughts on the motor binding when installed and not turning? If the starters working fine, but the motor is bound tight you should at least gear a click and the lights dimm.

Can you turn the motor over by hand with the spark plugs out. You should be able to get a wrench on the front of the motor and turn it.

We first need to figure out if the starter is working, and its another issue. Let us know is the motor turns. Not being there its tough for us to know.

 

[maowens85]

Had the starter tested before I put it in works fine. I can turn the motor by hand it moves. I checked the starter with a volt meter and it's getting power.

 

[Dono]

All of that is very good news. We need a schematic of the starter circuit.
http://search.ebscohost.com/
ID: rrcc
PW: rebsco

Follow the schematic and hopefully you can trace whats not working.
I was surprised to see an anti-theft rely there. I thought that there was no pats system on that year. Even with pats, I thought it just disabled ignition/fuel pump.

Im really kinda hoping someone with far more experience in this area chimes in. I have never had a start issue like this, so I havn't had to learn it.

 

[maowens85]

I tested the system again with the volt meter and no juice to the starter this time. So I bypassed the solenoid and she fired right up so I need a new one. Thanks a lot for your help I greatly appreciate it.

 

[Dono]

Lifes good!
Congratulations on the swap!!

 

[1992fordgreen]

For the future reference, if the solenoid was good, next thing would be to check the starter ground wire that connects to the bottom bolt on the starter. Could rust away.

 

[maowens85]

I put in the new solenoid and I still cant get it to fire. The ground wire for the starter is in good shape. When I turn the key we can hear some clicking or ticking in one of the relay boxes. I'm not sure what that means. I've never encountered an issue like this before. Ive checked every fuse I can find and every wiring harness I can find all fuses are good and wiring harnesses are solid. Could this be a relay issue? I can still get it to fire when I bypass the solenoid but the key wont start it.

 

[boominXplorer]

Any kind of aftermarket alarm under the dash?

 

[maowens85]

None that Im aware of. it does have the factory installed anti-theft system though.

 

[bobflood]

Carefully check the large positive wire all the way from battery to starter. Look for corrosion underneath the insulation - especially at the battery end. You may have enough current flow to register a voltage on your meter, but not enough to do any work. Good luck.

 

[maowens85]

+battery cable is in good shape I've checked all the wires fuses relays ect I don't know what else to do. I've done everything you all have suggested and more. The is something wrong between the Key and the Solenoid.

 

[Dono]

I wonder where that anti-theft relay is on your truck?
If the schematic posted is accurate, It would be nice to just bypass it.

 

[Bobmbx]

Do you have a manual or an automatic tranny?

 

[maowens85]

The anti-theft relay is under the dash close to the center consul. Automatic. I wouldn't know how to bypass it my knowledge of engine electrical is limited.

 

[Dono]

you could put your meter on the red/light blue wire and turn the ignition to start and see if you have 12 volts.
If you do, try the same thing at the white pink (or pink) wire.


If you have power on one side of the relay, but not the other when the ignition is turned to 'start', the red/Light Blue wire needs to be jumped to the white/pink (or pink) wire at the relay. this effectively bypasses the relay.

I cant see any harm in this, other than bypassing the anti-theft relay.

 

[maowens85]

I just tried the bypass and got the same result. I've been at this for 3 days now and now Im getting frustrated. I can't believe I'm having this much trouble with this thing. I really hope someone has some other ideas for me to try I greatly appreciate all the help I've gotten so far. Special Thanks to Dono you've been a great help.

 

[Bobmbx]

Erh...I just read your OP a little more deeply. This is the part raised my eye brows:

From the 1995 to the 1996 they changed the engine control computer. I put a new one in that seems to work.

Did the '96 engine work prior to this swap? And by "new", do you mean you installed a brand new engine computer?

This is a question for the forum experts:

Does this model (a 1996 computer) have the chipped keys? If so, could it be he needs to match the key to the car? He did say he changed the computer, and IIRC correctly thats where the "code" is read.