removing the plastic collar will disable the "key in ignition" chime.
Most cars since the late 90's have some sort of passive anti theft device, due to pressure from insurance pricing without one.
Thank you CDW6212R.
Disabling the system is exactly what I want to do.
Can I just leave the original key in the ignition switch? It seems like the car will be constantly dinging to notify passers-by that the key is in the ignition.
If I can't just leave a key in it all the time, how close does it have to be?
Do I have to tape it to the steering column, right next to the key hole?
Will it work 6 inches away?
Will it work a foot away?
I guess I can go make some door keys and find out.
This might seem strange, but I don't believe in a car telling me when it feels like I am the right person to drive it. I don't want to be at the Mercy of a Dealership to get a car to allow its owner to drive it. That's assuming they won't say, "This model year is no longer supported. You should have told the tow driver to take it to the junk yard."
I don't know why everything has to have a dozen microprocessors (captive parts) inside. I had a 1948 Ford pickup truck that contained everything I need today, except an air conditioner. If that sucker refused to respond to the ignition key, I could start it two other ways, and neither of them required a cash ransom.
I've been planning on getting another handle for the front passenger door at least for the same reasons. Funny (or not) that I can unlock the drivers door in person with either a key or the keypad, but nothing on any of the other doors, as if we never go to them when getting something from the car.Get 3 more drivers door handles, get the lock cylinders synchronized, and worry about the rear hatch second.
Yep. Anyone that wants to get the groceries out of the second row or the hatch must want to go through the drivers door to get there.I can unlock the drivers door in person with either a key or the keypad, but nothing on any of the other doors, as if we never go to them when getting something from the car.
I do have ability to open all the doors now that I got a remote start installed and they ran a wire to the rear hatch so that I can click it open using the auxiliary button.Yep. Anyone that wants to get the groceries out of the second row or the hatch must want to go through the drivers door to get there.
I wonder if there are any Explorer versions from which I can get the rear hatch, in order to have one with a key hole in it.
Hey guys, Im new to this forum and just read through all 13 pages and some links about the PATS system. Best info on PATS that I found on the web.. Hoping you can help...
Im transplanting a complete 4.6 v8 w/ auto tranny from my 2000 mustang GT into a project truck I am building (I know its a mustang and not an explorer engine does have some explorer parts and... you guys really seem to have the best knowledge of PATS I could find. I have the engine and transmission installed and am working on getting the wiring straight to fire it up. right now I have all the wiring plugged together and laying next to the truck and I have a few questions or problems
1. I want to use an old non ford column, and steering wheel for the retro look. Can I just remove the ignition module, Key Transponder, lock cylinder and discard the tilt column or do I need something (clock spring or something from the inside that I cant see. My lock cylinder seems to be stuck anyway so may need to replace that.
2. If I leave the key in the ignition (Transponder should work without turning key from what I gather), try to use the ignition switch directly to start the truck I don't get anything.. the ford gauges power up but I have a rapidly flashing THEFT light but no cranking or sound from fuel pump?
3. I want to pare down and clean up the wiring harness for my application to the bare essentials, engine, PATS, fuel, transmission. I don't need all the power options, radio, lighting etc that is here. Anyone have a basic diagram of what I need to keep for the pats system and engine to run or can I buy a cheap PCM/ECU that will disable the PATS permanently
Thanks again
I think If I could find the schematic separating PATS and the engine/trans essentials I could get this solved.