EX Radio Wiring... | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

EX Radio Wiring...

Maybe you could try running the amp in mono, wire the DVC's in series, and wire the subs in parallel to the amp.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Take the dvm and measure the resistance of each sub...ie...disconnect the speaker wires from the amp and measure the resistance oneach wire. Also leave the speaker wires disconnected and try turning up the radio with no subs connected. This will help us to help you better.....:)
 






yo you were rite about the head it works great now, but the speakers were pissing me off and i just cranked the volume all the way high and turned on the radio, and one started working fine but the other has a blown fuse, so that means the one with the blown fuse has wires touching? becase i checked there are none touching
 












Sound like you may have a damaged voice coil or the connections at the speaker may have come loose or shorting out somewhere. If you took readings with the dvm it would tell me where to have you look first. Pull that driver and check the connections on it.

Glad you got the radio working properly.......there are several sites on the web with wrong stereo wiring info..:)
 






i couldnt find the dvm anywhere but i figured it out, i was retarted and when i slid the box in the back it ripped both wires out of the speaker connection and they were touching,(i took out all the screws and pulled the speaker to check the wires and didnt look at the connection in the back:eek:) so i fixed it and they work good. im fuking shocked at the power this cheap amp puts out, they hit very hard.

but now everything works just have to hide some wires and im set.

thanks for all the help


oh 2 things.

1 i get a weird hissing sound comming out of the speakers when the sound is all the way down

2 if i hook the dvm to the neg/pos speaker outs, i can see how much the amp is putting out ea speaker?
 






1 i get a weird hissing sound comming out of the speakers when the sound is all the way down

2 if i hook the dvm to the neg/pos speaker outs, i can see how much the amp is putting out ea speaker?

1) Is it a hiss or more of a whine? Is it there with the engine on or off?..

2) You will get a voltage reading and then you can use a formula to get you an approximate output.
 






1) Is it a hiss or more of a whine? Is it there with the engine on or off?..

2) You will get a voltage reading and then you can use a formula to get you an approximate output.


1) i guess more of a whine. it happens when the car is off, . i can live with it its not horrible but just want to make sure its nothing bad

btw what is bass boost? eveyone keeps telline me not to touch it but just wanted to know

2)i have a friggin dvm somewhere, i really want to know what the act output of it is, im very suprised it puts out this much . my bad im sure im becoming a pain in the ass but do you know the formula?
 






Most amps have a Bass Gain control on them. Unless you are really good at setting your gains.....I would set it conservative ......

Here's the equation....

AC Volts = sqare root(watts x ohms).
 






i was just screwing around wwith it and noticed it does not happen when the car is off, sorry thought it was doing the same but it was the fan in the amp i was hearing, so it only does this with the car turned on
 






4000 watts with a 70 amp fuse??

lets see here...

70 amps X optimistic 14.4 volts = 1008 watts input

1008 watts X optimistic 60% efficiency = 604.8 theoretical watts.

Also use this calculator when setting the gain into the ball park area.

http://www.caraudio911.com/tutorials/GainSet/voltage.htm

Bass boost is bad...not even needed. It can be helpful SOMETIMES when used correctly. Most people use it like a "more bass" knob and clip the amp and blow subs.

run an 18 gauge wire grounding the HU chassis to the amp chassis to help eliminate any noise interference in the system.
 






4000 watts with a 70 amp fuse??

lets see here...

70 amps X optimistic 14.4 volts = 1008 watts input

1008 watts X optimistic 60% efficiency = 604.8 theoretical watts.

Also use this calculator when setting the gain into the ball park area.

http://www.caraudio911.com/tutorials/GainSet/voltage.htm

Bass boost is bad...not even needed. It can be helpful SOMETIMES when used correctly. Most people use it like a "more bass" knob and clip the amp and blow subs.

run an 18 gauge wire grounding the HU chassis to the amp chassis to help eliminate any noise interference in the system.

i never said it put out 4k, i said IT IS RATED AT 4K, and repeditly said it prob wont put out half of that but any way i found the dvm, and with that calaulator it says 47.9v <-no idea what that means but w/e
 






That hissing noise means you're picking up interference, most likely through your rca cables. How did you run all of the wiring? Are the RCA cables going to the amp and the speaker wire going to the box run seperately from the power and ground cables for the amp? You should always try to keep these wires away from each other. If they have to cross, you should try to cross them perpendicular to each other rather than have them running parrallel. The best way I found to do this on my truck was to run the power from the battery into the cab through a grommet just infront of the drivers seat. It then goes along the drivers side back to the amp. The ground comes off the amp and goes to the drivers side rear seat bolt. The blue signal wire is run along the drivers side to the blue/white wire from the head unit. The rca's are run back along the passenger side and behind the rear seats to the amp which is mounted to the back of the drivers side rear passenger seat. This keeps all of my signal and power wires seperate from each other. If that doesn't work, I've had good luck in the past with the ground loop isolators sold at walmart. The rca's plug into the isolator and then there are rca plugs that go from the isolator to the amp. I didn't really expect it to work, but I was pleasantly surprised and for ten bucks it was worth a shot.
 






i was just screwing around wwith it and noticed it does not happen when the car is off, sorry thought it was doing the same but it was the fan in the amp i was hearing, so it only does this with the car turned on
OK...gonna jump back in here.....sounds like you have a ground loop issue. Check all power connection positive and negative and check the routing of the remote wire. That will give you a start.
 






i never said it put out 4k, i said IT IS RATED AT 4K, and repeditly said it prob wont put out half of that but any way i found the dvm, and with that calaulator it says 47.9v <-no idea what that means but w/e


That you did....using the formula I posted it puts the power at the 2 ohm load at 1147. You can check it with the other calculator posted....
 






That hissing noise means you're picking up interference, most likely through your rca cables. How did you run all of the wiring? Are the RCA cables going to the amp and the speaker wire going to the box run seperately from the power and ground cables for the amp? You should always try to keep these wires away from each other. If they have to cross, you should try to cross them perpendicular to each other rather than have them running parrallel. The best way I found to do this on my truck was to run the power from the battery into the cab through a grommet just infront of the drivers seat. It then goes along the drivers side back to the amp. The ground comes off the amp and goes to the drivers side rear seat bolt. The blue signal wire is run along the drivers side to the blue/white wire from the head unit. The rca's are run back along the passenger side and behind the rear seats to the amp which is mounted to the back of the drivers side rear passenger seat. This keeps all of my signal and power wires seperate from each other. If that doesn't work, I've had good luck in the past with the ground loop isolators sold at walmart. The rca's plug into the isolator and then there are rca plugs that go from the isolator to the amp. I didn't really expect it to work, but I was pleasantly surprised and for ten bucks it was worth a shot.

Very good advice....could not have said it better myself. The isolators are a hit or miss option though and if being used in an SQ environment will result in some loss of frequency response.

Heres a trick for you.....if you have to run rca's with power, wrap the entire cable in foil and then ground the foil to the body. It does not eliminate all noise but it reduces about 95% of it.

Keep me posted......
 






That hissing noise means you're picking up interference, most likely through your rca cables. How did you run all of the wiring? Are the RCA cables going to the amp and the speaker wire going to the box run seperately from the power and ground cables for the amp? You should always try to keep these wires away from each other. If they have to cross, you should try to cross them perpendicular to each other rather than have them running parrallel. The best way I found to do this on my truck was to run the power from the battery into the cab through a grommet just infront of the drivers seat. It then goes along the drivers side back to the amp. The ground comes off the amp and goes to the drivers side rear seat bolt. The blue signal wire is run along the drivers side to the blue/white wire from the head unit. The rca's are run back along the passenger side and behind the rear seats to the amp which is mounted to the back of the drivers side rear passenger seat. This keeps all of my signal and power wires seperate from each other. If that doesn't work, I've had good luck in the past with the ground loop isolators sold at walmart. The rca's plug into the isolator and then there are rca plugs that go from the isolator to the amp. I didn't really expect it to work, but I was pleasantly surprised and for ten bucks it was worth a shot.


yea i got the hideaway in the center console, and run around the psngr side of the car with the remote and antenna for gps, and the pwr running on the drvr side.

the amp is bolted under the drvr side back seat
 






OK...gonna jump back in here.....sounds like you have a ground loop issue. Check all power connection positive and negative and check the routing of the remote wire. That will give you a start.


ok, ill check everything over, just waiting for it to get a little warmer, its 17f FREEZING

so that 1147*2 rite? because thats from the L speaker? or thats the whole thing
 









Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





if using a DMM to set the amp gain shoot for around 30 volts per channel
 






Back
Top