Experts, Show your stuff

[BrotherK]

Try this one on for size.

My explorer '92 xlt has 150,000 miles logged. It had a few minor oil leeks and was missing a bit so I took it into the shop. Got new plugs and wires, new valve cover gaskets, and new vacuum lines and a new vaccuum regulator on the transmission.

Got it back and all was well, except now there's a new problem. 25 percent of the time it wont shift up properly from first into second. It goes up to 3,000-3,800 rpm, holds a few seconds before shifting, then wavers up and down before it settles into 2nd, and it happens usually after the engine is warmed up.

This problem doesn't occur in the other gears. I took it back in and they replaced the vaccuum regulator (twice). Still the same problem. They say I need new transmission fluid (they say the current fluid is burned). Well, I just put in synthetic fluid a year ago, and if that's the problem then why didn't it happen before they worked on it?

I'm willing to admit that if you correct one thing, then something may show up, but why would burned fluid affect what seems to be a vaccuum problem?

Looking forward to some insight here.

 

[ChuckyD]

Its called... get a new tranny
Is that 150 k on the original tranny?

 

[rjc]

I'm no expert but problems don't just come out of the blue for no reason. Unfortunately nobody will put the attention to detain into fixing your car like you. That's why I don't take a car to anybody for anything if I can all avoid it. Did they really change that regulator twice or are they just giving you a load of **** to put the problem back on you? Shops are like doctors they rarely admit they made a mistake. rc

 

[410Fortune]

first off did you check the fluid level?

Just because you put synthetic in there a year ago doesnt mean it is still good.

I would replace the filter and fluid (pan drop) and try it again.

Also you may want to look at your kick down cable linkage and adjustment.

Try these things first...

 

[BrotherK]

Yes, well, a new transmission is the final solution, but I'm going to do that unless I've tested a few other possibilities.

As for the integrity of the mechanic. Unquestionable. Most reputable in town, has his own car talk show, and have known him and his family for quite some time.

Legitimate question, though, in most cases.

 

[410Fortune]

If he's so good then why are you questioning him when he tells you your burnt fluid is the cause? I would change it out and see if the problem goes away.

The A4LD 1-2 and 2-3 shift are complelety hydraulic, so the vacuum regulator would not be causing your problem.

I would look to the fluid level, kick down adjustment, and/or a dirty throttle body/fluid/filter to be the cause.

If not then know this; the average life of an A4LD is about 120K miles. You are 30K beyond that and the furthest I have personally seen one go is 160K. The one with 160K was COMPLETELY worn out, the OD unit was ready to give up at any time, I know because we rebuilt it and it's now in my truck......

If you still think it is a vacuum problem (for whatever reason) I would then check the condition of your lower intake manifold bolts, they come loose and will cause major vacuum problems. Usually this causes big time idle and running problems, rough/low idle, poor acceleration, just plain bad running 4.0L.
I doubt this is your problem from what you describe, but it doesnt hurt to check.....

 

[BrotherK]

You're right.

That will be my next step. Questions though. What should I check the kick down linkage for? I'll probably clean it and put a little fresh greese on it, but what else.

Also, the mechanic wants to do a transmission fluid flush, which includes more than just dropping the pan and changing the fluid. You recommend a flush?

Tnx

 

[410Fortune]

Flush is the way to go because it will get the fluid out of your converter and throttle body.

Just make sure the kick down linkage doesnt have any slack in it between the bracket and the actual kick down lever on the tranny (you will see what I mean when you are under there). Also make sure it is adjusted right. With the gas pedal in the rest position (idle, no foot on the pedal) the kick down lever should be all the way at rest. With the pedal floored it should be all the way forward (need a helper). There is an adjustment at the firewall (engine side). It is a half moon shaped button, press it all the way down (they get sticky and can be hard to press) and pull the cable sleeve out a little. This is a "self adjusting" mechanism according to ford the nly adjustment it needs is to press the pedal to the floor once. Personally I prefer to adjust it by hand, basically trial and error. Make sure all is ok down at the tranny linkage, then set it on the firewall adjuster, drive it, adjust, drive it, adjust, you get the idea.

 

[88vert]

I would have the tranny completley flushed take it to a good shop and have it done right

 

[BrotherK]

Flush it is!

Tell me, they wont put synthetic in since they pump a lot of fluid through in the flush process. Is it that big of a deal NOT to have synthetic in the tranny? I always that synthetics performed so much better, especially on older trannies.

 

[88vert]

You should be alright with regular tranny fluid then just go back to synthetic on your next change.I put a drain plug in my pan and I change fluid every three months and my tranny has over 120,000 miles on it and it shifts great {knock on wood}

 

[mrboyle]

It is not advised to flush any tranny with over 100K miles. Especially if it has never been done before. The reason being is it will unlodge crap and allow it to get stuffed into the passages in the tranny and the end result is a junk tranny. If you do anything, drop the pan, change the filter and replace only the fluid that was lossed.

P.S. 410Fortune- my A4LD has 189,468 miles on it and it still works fine!

 

[BrotherK]

Well THAT is interesting. The thing about the flush is that they drop the pan, use mechanised equipment to pump 20 - 30 quarts through the system, filtering the fluid as it cycles. Seems this force and catch any dislodged particulates, wouldn't it?

K

 

[88vert]

when I first got my 92 about three years ago it had 90000 on her and The tranny fluid looked like oil the tranny filter was never changed well I got under her and chaged the gasket and oil then about two days later it was black again so i changed it agian and then had a drain plug installed know my fluid is the right color and have had no problems since I change my fluid often about every three months I have 120000 on her now and I do all kinds of pulling even with a 3.27 gear car trailer,boat trailer,and my camper with no problems

 

[BrotherK]

How does one go about installing a drain plug on the pan?

 

[410Fortune]

Well you have two choices. Go buy a drain plug kit and drill a hole in the pan, or take the pan to a shop and have them weld in a drain plug (best method).

 

[88vert]

I bought the kit and did myself it is pretty straight forward

 

[james t]

i have used B&M's drain plug (around 6-8 bucks) on every auto tranny vehicle i have ever owned. i have NEVER had one leak. weld-in is best, but overkill if you ask me. takes all of 5 minutes to install after the pan is dropped.

 

[mrboyle]

Originally posted by BrotherK
Well THAT is interesting. The thing about the flush is that they drop the pan, use mechanised equipment to pump 20 - 30 quarts through the system, filtering the fluid as it cycles. Seems this force and catch any dislodged particulates, wouldn't it?

K

The problem with this is the fact that there are some passages in the tranny that are as small as 1/16" in diameter and certain particles can not pass through them. Also the majority of the passages are dead ended at check valves or soelnoids which causes any particles flowing in the fluid to get jammed up aginst the end, then once the tranny is opperated the and the soelnoid opens all the trapped debris clog the passage way and cause the tranny to lose the function of that soelnoid.

 

[410Fortune]

Please correct meif I am wrong but once the B7M drain plug is installed doesnt it leave a small lip on the inside of the pan? So that when the pan is drained there is still a small puddle of fluid in there? I mean it's far better then dropping the pan everytime and it allows you to keep the fluid in better shape anyways by changing it as often as you like, but thats the only reason welding one in is better, not concerned with leaks.

I have never seen the B&M plug so I dont know...
and heck I dont have either, I need to install something next time..