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Explorer weight loss program

loop

It is a universal loop from Summit Racing.
I had to drop the front of the tank down.
It is bolted to the floor, not the frame, but it is bolted to a spot right up against a reinforced area so it should be pretty sturdy. Hope to never find out.

I believe according to NHRA standards that the loop must be within 6 inches of the first u joint, and it is on my truck.
 






remove all skid plates, t-case, fuel tank, t-bars keys, spare tire and holder, rear wiper and Moter, (fiberglass hole or rubber plug, back seat and belts, ac lines compressor radiator, mechanical fan is huge, front diff driveshaft and cv's. cut cv's to hold hub, sunroof and plexiglass, ton of weight there. the most wight is in the 4x4 and if you drop your headliner, there is so much weight in the roof insulation its insane, probable 200 pounds, i rubber sprayed mine. also, brown wire mod it if you're cutting the 4x4 assembly or the t-case will send power up front if the rear slips, bedliner works good for removed insulation. I've done all this on my 98. and more for my project mpg, shooting for low 30's. if you're going race mode in a straight line, sway bars are overrated too.
 






Remove the 4wabs
 






I removed the rear speakers and the rear door locks. The front speakers with added tweeters and subwoofer are plenty and likely weigh a bit more than the rear speakers. The door locks were not working and it made it easier to work them manually. I run daily in camping/hauling mode with no back seat.
 






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