Extreme heat and humidity made me a dumb-ass today

[koda2000]

Last week my daughter said that she had a squeak coming from the right rear wheel of her '00 Mountaineer 2WD. I was thinking it might be a rear wheel bearing, but after a test drive I determined it was just that it needed rear brake pads. I thought I'd replaced these not that long ago, but I guess that was a different Mountaineer. I've done this job many times before and wasn't expecting any issues.

Today was very hot and very humid in GA. To make it worse I'd cut my lawn this morning, was already hot and tired and I was working in the full sun.

Usually I take the old brake pads off and lay them on the ground so that I can compare them to the new ones, but today I didn't feel like making 2 trips to AutoZone for the warranty, so I removed the old ones, chucked them in a plastic bag and took them with me to AZ. Laying on the parts counter the new pads looked the same as they old ones, though I thought it odd that they we rubber-banded together (inside pads together and outside pads together).

I got home removed the rubber bands and installed the new pads in the caliper and went to install the caliper in its bracket. When I went to install the caliper I noticed that one pad had a notch in its metal base and one side did not. This made it very difficult for me to install the caliper. I ended up installing the outside pad into the bracket w/out the caliper and the inside pad in the caliper in order to get it on. Other side had the same issue (and same solution). I did not remember ever having this issue in the past.

When I was all done and with tires reinstalled it dawned on me that the outside and inside pads must be a matched set. If I'd thought of that earlier the job would have been much easier (notches up or down, not one notch up and one down). What a dumb-ass I am!

One well I don't believe installing the pads with the notches up or notches down will make a difference and I'm not doing the whole job over again. I can't believe I didn't figure that out. Maybe the next time I do a tire rotation (when the temps are in the 70's) I'll correct it. I noticed I also that I need to replace the trans tail shaft and pinion seals (another job for when it's cooler outside) for now I'll just top off the rear diff.

 

[allmyEXes]

I work and live just below the 35th parallel and the summer temps here can fry one's brain. I know exactly what the heat did to you. So is the notched pad the inside or outside ? I have my replacement 8.8 (replacement for "MO") sitting on my little trailer in front of my shop but I havn't stripped the Disc Assys off yet for my '91 4x4. Seems that the HEAT is causing me to put off the task until a later date.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Koda....

I think the transmission output shaft seals are becoming obsolete from Ford. A few are left, in scattered locations, and may need to be ordered. Aftermarket parts are available, but difficult to determine if they properly match your transmission seal. The Ford dealer uses VIN numbers to obtain the correctly matched part.

If you plan on this project in the foreseeable future, you might get your parts (from Ford) now. Just a thought, as I recently did this project, and went through this problem.

Good luck.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Koda,

Even with severe heat, your mechanical skills are legendary.

Thanks for your wisdom on this Forum.

 

[koda2000]

I work and live just below the 35th parallel and the summer temps here can fry one's brain. I know exactly what the heat did to you. So is the notched pad the inside or outside ? I have my replacement 8.8 (replacement for "MO") sitting on my little trailer in front of my shop but I havn't stripped the Disc Assys off yet for my '91 4x4. Seams that the HEAT is causing me to put off the task until a later date.

The way I have it now the inside pad has its notch on the bottom and the outside one has the notch on the top. They're supposed to be installed with both notches on the bottom of the caliper bracket. That way you hook the bottom of the caliper on first and then rotate the top into place. Does that make sense?

In the image below you can see the notches on the metal bases on the left side of each pad.

 

[koda2000]

Koda,

Even with severe heat, your mechanical skills are legendary.

Thanks for your wisdom on this Forum.

Thank you for the kind words. On the subject the trans seal, I bought one 6 year's ago and never installe it. I think it's a Motorcraft brand. Now all I have to do is figure out where I put it.

 

[allmyEXes]

Yes, I see what your saying about the notches. I also see the built on caliper piston clip that makes that part of it fool proof. I might just put a red spray paint dot and the notches and caliper when I disassemble the donor 8.8 so I will remember your info/advice. Thanks koda.

 

[koda2000]

"I also see the built on caliper piston clip that makes that part of it fool proof."

I don't understand the above statement. Are you referring to the clips that hold the pads to/into the caliper or the noise maker thingy?

 

[allmyEXes]

The triangle clip in to the piston part that would make it fool proof (for me) on the inner and outer pad added: separate from the notch. (no disrespect intended here)

 

[allmyEXes]

Where do the long skinny pieces of metal go ?

 

[koda2000]

The triangle clip in to the piston part that would make it fool proof (for me) on the inner and outer pad added: separate from the notch. (no disrespect intended here)

No disrespect taken. I still don't see how the 3 prong clip on the inside pad would make any difference. It will go in the same way on either caliper. The hole in the piston is just a round hole. It's all about the notch in the pad base and even when you get it wrong the pad fits/sits in the caliper just fine.

I believe the reason for the notches is to prevent the caliper from pitching up from the rear (and jamming against the inside of the wheel rim) while going forward should the lower caliper bolt come out, which has happened as reported on the forum. That's the only reason I can see for the notches and why they should be placed on the bottom of the caliper bracket.

 

[allmyEXes]

On other vehicles that I have worked on that didn't have the "clip in to the piston" clips built on the pads, I have momentarily mixed up the inner and outers but not for long because they usually won't swap out. I'm not referring to the left/right swap part.

 

[swshawaii]

Phil, the question regarding brake pad double "notch" position was brought up in previous threads with no explanation or answer. I agree with the statement in your OP " I don't believe installing the pads with the notches up or notches down will make a difference", but Ford clearly states in the workshop manual to position them on top.

NOTE: When installed, the locator notch on the brake pads will be located at the upper end of the rear disc brake caliper.

caliper-removal-and-installation.pdf | Brake | Vehicles

 

[koda2000]

Phil, the question regarding brake pad double "notch" position was brought up in previous threads with no explanation or answer. I agree with the statement in your OP " I don't believe installing the pads with the notches up or notches down will make a difference", but Ford clearly states in the workshop manual to position them on top.

Humpf... notches on the bottom seems more logical to me, but I guess Ford may have their reason for putting them at the top.

Thanks Steve.

 

[Don Jackson]

I recently replaced the rotors, pads, inner and outer bearings on my 00 2WD. From a previous "caught too late" break job, I had scores on the old rotors but I put new pads on anyway. Money was tight. A week later, the new pads we're worn to the old rotors. Problem solved! So years later, I feel the steering was lose and I thought I heard some grinding. So I bought the whole project parts (pads, rotors, bearings, seals...). I started early in the morning. By the very end, I had to finish to meet some folks out. I was flying through buttoning up. Let the truck down, tighten the lugs, throw the caps and tool in the back and head up the road to get cleaned up and go out. I back the truck to the end of the driveway and hit the brakes and this awful metal to metal grinding happened. I got it home then took a different car out to meet friends. The next day I took it all apart and found I installed the drivers inner pad backwards (the brake piston was pushing against the ceremic pad and the metal plate was pushing on the new rotor. With the trip back and forth of where I live and where I fix my cars, I destroyed 1 of the 4 new pads and scored the new rotor. Being hurried will do that. I ended getting another set of cheap pads and replacedthe destroyed one. I'll have to keep an eye on that pad. The new scorers are not too bad either.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I generally don't run them with any sort of significant scoring or obvious wear, since pads and rotors have different thermal expansion rates and too much wear and you'll have crappy brakes later in your pads life.