Factory Power Inverter Install?

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1. Wire the inverter so it cuts off when the vehicle does. This is the route I went. Assuming you followed my directions to this point, the rest is easy. With your passenger side door jam trim, glove box door, and carpet pulled back, you will have easy access to bare metal to make your ground connection. The black wire with yellow strip on your harness is your ground. Find a suitable location to place a self tapping screw and attach your ground. Next, using 10 gauge wire, extend the red wire from your inverter harness. You’ll be routing this to the battery for this install so don’t cut anything for now and leave it hanging.

Next you will need to extend your ACC wire. This wire will go to the fuse box and acts as the “remote” wire that actually turns on the inverter. If you have ever installed a car stereo or amp, you’ll be familiar with this concept. The wire is 18 gauge wire and will be much smaller than your power wire. Extend this wire and for a factory look, I like to roll both wires together in electrical tape. When you’ve done so, begin routing your new “harness” up and across where the glovebox is(there are existing wires there, secure them together with zip ties for a clean, factory look.

You’ll need to route this harness over to the driver side. This can be done by fishing them through the front most part of the center console. This is self explanatory and requires no panel removal. Once you’ve gotten your new harness over to the driver side, remove the plastic panel under the dash. This is done by removing two screws and carefully removing the panel. This will allow you to access the fuse panel as well as allowing you to properly route/secure your harness. Route your harness logically, following the path of current harnesses and avoiding moving parts. You should have a length of 10 gauge wire that will eventually go to the battery and your 18 gauge wire should be routed and secured near the fuse box.

 

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At this point, you have complete the routing of the wiring and now can go one of three ways:

1. Inverter cuts off with car

2. Inverter stays on after car is off

3. Inverter is wired to a switch

I chose to have the inverter off when the car is off. Since this is more of a novelty that will be used occasionally during long trips, I felt no need to have it turned on constantly. This also saves you from potential battery drain issues. Either way, you will need to invest in an ATM add a circuit(photograph attached). Make sure you get the ATM and not the ATP LP, as it will not clear the higher walls of the fuse panel. I believe I paid 7 bucks for mine at Walmart. While you’re there, pick up one an In-line fuse holder as well. This will be for your power wire. I’ve attached a photo for reference. Make sure that the wire gauge matches.

 

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Now that you’ve acquired your fuse holders, it’s time to get things wired up. First, place two 10 amp ATM fuses into the add a fuse holder. Next, add this holder to your 18 gauge ACC green wire by crimping it with the provided crimp and wrapping with electrical tape. If you have decided to control the inverter with a toggle switch, you’ll need to route your 18 gauge wire to your switch, then to your add a circuit holder.

Next, we will add the holder to your fuse box. The add a circuit holder simply “plugs in” to the fuse box just like a regular fuse. Ford was generous enough to provide many spare ports to use, plus if you have an XLT like mine, there are several ports for options I don’t have. Since I wanted my inverter turned off with the car, I opted to use slot 38, which controls the moonroof that I don’t have. This slot will turn off when the ignition is turned to the off position. If you have yours wired to a switch or simply want it on at all times, find a port that stays on all the time. Since this is a remote wire, there won’t be heavy current running through it and I don’t anticipate any issues using this method. Again, we are talking about a similar setup to a car stereo or amp.

 

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The final step of our install is to run our power wire to the battery. I for the life of me could not find an opening in the firewall for this wire. Since I have future plans for expanded electrical work, it made sense to go ahead and drill a new hole plus add a small grommet to seal it up. There are numerous areas to drill the hole along the firewall and the grommets can be bought at an auto parts store for cheap. Drill your hole, cut a slit through the grommet, fish wire through grommet, and then fish the wire through the fire wall up to the battery, place grommet into fire wall hole to seal it.

With your wire up to the battery, add your inline fuse holder to your wire. Crimp it to your power wire, secure with electrical tape, and then add a ring terminal to the other end. Attach ring terminal to battery and insert 25 amp fuse. Next, test your inverter. The green light on the outlet should be on and you should be able to power the device of your choosing. I plugged in a cell phone charger and it worked.

Next, make sure all wires are secure, replace all panels/trim, and clean up your mess. The front camera on my phone stopped working but I will try to snap pics tomorrow. I can also answer any questions/take specific pictures for anyone interested.

For anyone wanting to do this install, realize that there are better inverters out there. That being said, if you want the factory look and have a little bit of time/knowhow, it is very doable and if you shop smart, the parts can be had at reasonable prices. Here are some considerations for this install:

1. The outlet to inverter harness will be your hardest part to acquire. I recommend finding a donor vehicle and pulling everything at the same time. If you have to clip the harnesses, make sure you take the plugs with enough wiring to extend them as they are proprietary.

2. Buy yourself a variety pack of ring terminals and wire crimps. This will save time and money as well. You can buy a variety pack at Walmart for 4 bucks or less. Pick yourself up a nice set of wire cutters that strip and crimp as well.

3. Have some pride and make your install look factory. Use zip ties to secure wire and wrap wires up to look factory. It’s easy, cheap, and keeps things looking dapper.

4. Take it easy when removing panels and trim. Nothing sucks more than to have an otherwise clean install, only to break some expensive plastic trim. In most cases, they will take only a little effort to remove. For this install, you will be removing quite a bit. I have outlined how to remove them, but there are a variety of videos available that will do it step by step.

If there are any questions you have, I am happy to help. Let me know and thanks for the kind words.