Factory Power Inverter Install?

[peterk9]

Not sure if this is of any help. BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products and Turbochargers | TSB and Wiring Diagrams Database End-User License Agreement

Peter

 

[cdubbs7859]

The info is in his profile in the margin.

Peter

True. I’m learning this site still.

 

[cdubbs7859]

Not sure if this is of any help. BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products and Turbochargers | TSB and Wiring Diagrams Database End-User License Agreement

Peter

That’s a tremendous help actually. Thanks!

 

[cdubbs7859]

Thanks to Peterk9, I was able to find a wiring diagram for the inverter. Looks like the wiring to the outlet itself is simple, however it appears two connections will need to be made to the BCM.

It also appears that the mounting point for the inverter is present behind the glove box area. Expect a detailed write up with photos and part numbers hopefully this week.

View attachment 171054

 

[cdubbs7859]

Alright so I received the parts in the mail, thanks to a fellow forum member on this site. Yesterday I began working on the console portion of the install. As requested, here are the part numbers for the console back with 110 volt outlet cutout, the wiring harness that runs under the center console, and the actual inverter itself.

 

[cdubbs7859]

Many of you might be asking, why go through the trouble of the factory install when you can buy a better aftermarket inverter? Well, if you’re like me, you like to tinker and I am personally fascinated by auto electronics. I could find much on the factory inverter install so I figured I’d give it a try myself. Plus, while I do have a nice dual outlet heavy duty aftermarket inverter, I can see the utility of this convenient little outlet. That being said, if you plan to run a table saw or microwave off of it, don’t waste your time. As it’s been discussed, there are several aftermarket options that will suite your needs better.

 

[cdubbs7859]

So let’s get started. As far as I can tell, there is no provisions in place for the factory power inverter. The actual outlet itself is connected to a wire harness that runs from the outlet to the main console harness under the passenger side panel of the center console. There, it terminates into a 4 pin plug, which is routed to the inverter(more on that later.)

To start, first place your parking brake on and shift your gear shifter as far back as it will go. Since you are eventually disconnecting the shift interlock cable and you need the clearance from the shifter, you must do this first.

Second, remove the back of the center console by grabbing it from the top of the inside of the cup holder, pulling it up and out. It will come out with a little motivation. Disconnect your power point, AC controls, and the small connector that connects into the console. Sit this item aside as it will not be used again.

 

[cdubbs7859]

Next, remove the side panels of your center console. Carefully pull at them, working your way from back to front until each panel is removed from the console. You could probably get away with doing just the passenger side but I removed both just in case.

Next, open your center console lid and pull up on the plastic latch, the part with the console power point attached. It will come off, giving you access to three screws. Remove these three screws and remove the plastic “frame piece” from the console. You can now reach your hand underneath the console where the 4wd switch and shifter are.

At this point, you will need to pull the top part of the console up and towards you. You will need to disconnect the front power point and media hub connections, as they are part of the main harness. Once you have done that, begin disconnecting the harnesses underneath the console. There will be one for the 4wd switch(if you have this option), the backlight for the media hub compartment and shift indicator, as well as your shift interlock harness. Make sure you have everything disconnected and you can remove the entire harness.

 

[cdubbs7859]

Note about the main harness:

After putting everything back together and testing everything, I discovered a minor difference in the two harnesses. Obviously, the biggest difference between the two is that one provides the console end wiring for your new 110 volt outlet. However, while everything plugged in and appeared to match up, the new harness would not power the LED shift indicator and media hub compartment light. Everything else worked except for these two items. While some people wouldn’t care, my OCD was kicking in and I couldn’t let it go. Apparently there were differences in pin locations for this LED plug.

Having zero interest in tracing wires and repinning the plug, I discovered that the 4 wire 110 volt outlet wiring harness was simply taped to the new harness with orange electrical tape. Using my trusty utility knife, I carefully separated the 110 outlet harness from the main harness. I then took my old main harness and carefully taped the 110 volt harness to it. It looks factory and I placed the electrical tape in the exact locations the factory did.

 

[cdubbs7859]

With your new harness assembled and ready to go, it’s time to put it al back together. The harness routes in the same direction from which it came. Start by connecting your media hub and front power point connections. Next, connect your shift interlock, 4wd switch, and your LED shift indicator harness. I order route your new harness to the rear of the console, you will probably have to lift the actual square “compartment” portion of the console in order for your plugs to clear the hole. If you look at the “compartment,” you will see four tabs. Lift up on these tabs and the “compartment” will lift freely, allowing you to fish the wire through the hole. Use the little black clips to fix the wires to the side of the console for a clean look.

 

[cdubbs7859]

After routing your wires, double, triple check to ensure you have connected everything under the console. Turn the power on to the Explorer and ensure all items work, to include your 4wd switch, your LED backlighting, and your media hub. Also as you place your vehicle in park, ensure that the gear shift works.

With the top part of the console fully assembled and looking at the passenger side of the console, you should now have your plugged in main console harness and a new 4 pin plug. This 4 pin plug will ultimately connect to your power inverter via an additional harness.

 

[cdubbs7859]

I purchased the inverter, console, and wiring harness from a fellow member on this forum. Included with these items were three pigtails that were clipped off of a harness somewhere. I currently have both ends of the “console to inverter” harness and the pig tail that connects the inverter to the car. The “console to inverter” solution is simple: I plan to add the needed wire and route it from the new console plug to the inverter. The inverter to the car situation will be more time consuming.

Without having access to a limited or platinum with power inverter to look at, I am not sure whether or not the XLTs have any provisions for the factory power inverter. If anyone has one of these vehicles and would be willing to photograph the inverter end of the wiring/provide insight, that would be awesome. I do know that my XLT already has the 40v fuse in place in the engine compartment fuse box.

That being said, Peterk9 was able to provide me with an excellent wiring diagram for the 4 wire inverter to vehicle plug. There’s a ground, a positive, an “accessory mode” remote wire, and a wire to the BCM. It’s my understanding that the BCM allows the inverter to stay on an additional 30 minutes after the vehicle shuts off. Obviously if there were an unused factory plug under the dash, the process would be simple. However, worst case scenario, I can simply make my own wiring harness and wire it myself.

In any case, I have to work this evening so I will be going to sleep. I plan to tackle the rest of the wiring as well as the inverter install this weekend as time allows. Stay tuned and feel free to ask me any questions.

 

[cdubbs7859]

Here’s the three harnesses

 

[cdubbs7859]

Updates:

Been swamped with work and being a dad the past week or so. I completed everything up to the inverter. I am still trying to figure out whether there is a harness taped under the dash for this inverter or if I’m going to have to use the pigtail I have to make my own. Once I have this question answered, I will finish it up one way or another.

Anyways here are photos of the console put back together. Extending the wiring for the pigtails was simple. Simply purchase 16 gauge wire and cut 4 wires to length. Use crimp connectors to extend the wires on the two pigtails. Just to “church it up” and make it look factory, I wrapped the wires in electrical tape. Plug it in to that new harness and route towards the glovebox.

Now that your harness is built, it’s time to route it. Remove the glovebox door by removing the white pins from the bottom of the door. There is two of them and they come out by pulling them inward towards each other. Don’t forget to open the box and disconnect the little cable on the right hand side. After removing the glove box, you should see a black wire running towards the A pillar. Zip tie the harness to this wire and then route your plug towards the back of the A pillar.

 

[cdubbs7859]

Here are pics of the console put back together.

 

[cdubbs7859]

1

 

[mwittman77]

Awesome write up! I'm following to see how this connector to the inverter turns out. Just curious, what is your approximate cost to do the factory install?

 

[cdubbs7859]

Awesome write up! I'm following to see how this connector to the inverter turns out. Just curious, what is your approximate cost to do the factory install?

I appreciate the kinds words. I actually bought the panel, wiring, and inverter for 165 bucks from a fellow forum member. When looking for the parts on a totaled vehicle, keep your search narrowed to the limited/sport/platinum trim levels, as the inverter was only found on those models.

I’m still working on a solution for the wiring. I’m thinking I’ll have to roll my own and run a wire to the battery, a ground, one to an ACC spot on the fuse box, and then figure out the BCM wire.

 

[RhinoQuartz]

Seconded on how awesome this write up is! Can this go in the best of thread please? Maybe EE for cdubbs too, seeing as this is quite a detailed write up? @Rick

 

[cdubbs7859]

Update fellow explorer owners.

I know it has been a while and life has been crazy, but I finally got the inverter working and everything installed. As you know from my previous posts, there seems to be no factory wiring provisions for the Explorers that do not have the inverter from the factory. Based on my research, it would appear one would need to replace the main vehicle harness to get this wiring. This wiring will provide a 12+, a ground, an ACC wire, and a wire to the BCM. In a factory setup, I believe the BCM or a relay within allows the inverter to stay on 30 minutes after the ignition is turned off. That being said, unless you want to trace the mess of wires at the BCM and figure out which pin goes to it, this feature will be lost in the three solutions I have determined. I had zero interest in messing with the BCM, especially for a 140 watt inverter so I bypassed it. Here are the options I have to complete the install: