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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
It sounds like you have to pull the transmission back, turn, and push the torque converter until it fully seats into place. Don't force it into place with bolts.
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I do have a question. Most info says that the pump gets blown out when TQ is not seated and someone like me forces it on. After I torqued two bolts, something popped. The shaft didn’t pop in place because the TQ didn’t turn, so was the popping sound the pump blowing out?
That noise could have only been the trans meeting the Dowel pins on the motor . I would be surprised if the TC And Pump bushing was still useable .
Well I should say , I will be surprised if it does not leak from there .
that's a good point, i didn't think of that, and would explain why there is no damage to the TQ and pump shaft gears. i am a lucky guy and it may have not done any damage to the pump. i am going to tear into the old tranny to see what's behind the bell housing, since its going to the scrap yard anyway. will let y'all know...
We got that sucker in! Got it as far as before and had the same problem. I had it all lined up good this time, but it wouldn’t go in, so I backed it out and made sure the TQ was in and it slid right in-couldn’t believe it.
The mouth of the TQ was bent on both ends and it sort of looked square with the other two sides that are square for the factory jig. It was definitely slightly bent, don’t know how, but it spun on the shaft. I put a new front seal on it just in case, so we’ll see…
well, i got lucky again...it works! thanks for all the advice, especially blowing out the lines with an air compressor. you guys are awesome!
had to put about 8 qts of atf in it! it has an add'l little tranny radiator...
Metric 1/2" drive sockets, long extensions with the new wobble joints. metric open end and box wrenches. Torques 3/8 drive, good ones not cheep ones as they will break, these may be needed for the U joints.
As for what sizes, I can tell you that.
I didn't know how many days i would need a lift, so i built a wood jig with sides, out of 2 x 10's, to fit on my floor jack. worked real well. it kept the tranny stabile, and could even be tilted!
The converter was probable not all the way into the trans, possibly due to the input shaft being installed backwards. Pilot on converter should be 7/16 of an inch inside the face of the bell housing. The shorter spline end of the input shaft goes into the trans,
I know this is an old thread on removing the 4r55e, but I was wondering if someone could tell me why it's emphasized so much not to let the torque converted fall out of the transmission when it is removed (outside of the obvious damage that could occur on ground impact)
Is the issue alignment also when reinstalling?
I have a used transmission that I got from a yard to swap out with my completely failed trans, but the torque converter for the used unit I got was already separate from the transmission body when I picked it up. Will this be a problem for me when I install the two of them? (with regards to possible 'lining up' problems).
Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed some light for me.
Just some notes from someone who just replaced his trans (96 XLT 4.0 OHV 4r55e auto):
1. If I would do it again, I would not attempt to remove the y-pipe! The bolts were rusted and seized to the point where heat was little help and I snapped the head off the first one. I then moved on I realized that I could sneak the bell housing over the bottom of the y-pipe after removing the cat. Now I have the task of getting that snapped bolt out of the bottom of the manifold. Ugh.
2. Make sure that the torque converter nuts are properly torqued down to the flex plate, or you will, like me, have to remove the starter again and re-torque them because the TC will be rubbing against the bell housing (you will hear it).
3. The Cat bolts to y-pipe studs were also seized and snapped, so when the cat was out I sheared off each side of the bolts with a dremel, then step drilled through the studs with Milwaukee black-oxide bits (very effective), then mounted it back on with 5/16 nuts bolts, and washers.
I personally recomend snapping all those bolt/studs off and going with nut,bolt,washer combo. That bolt in the manifold I would just drill out taking the threads with it. Up to you if you wanna tap them again I guess. They are EZ to get to.
Thanks yes I am probably going to shear it off flush as possible and drill it out like I did the cat bolts, not as easy though because I have to get 12 inch bits and come from under the truck to get the angle, but I'm pretty confident I can get it done.
After spending a lot of time and effort to get those 4 bolts loose to remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold for a trans. swap I decided to try a cheap Harbor Freight Air Impact Hammer that I never really had a use for to cut the bolts. I found that the bolts are very hard and the chisel wouldn't cut through the bolts. But the after effect of the attempt revealed that the bolts would actually come out with little effort. I put the V shaped chisel directly on the bolt threads between the manifold and the metal pipe flanges, it buggered the exposed threads a bit but that is a small issue considering the bolts came out without breaking off. Heat doesn't work! I found the air chisel to be the cure for those nasty bolts.
P.S. I take PayPal for anyone that feels compelled to reflect their gratitude with green!
Haha. Yea got to get that digital Ford Shop Service manual.
I have a quick question though. I am doing the Timing Chain repair and we almost have the engine out just have to finish disconnecting the tranny. What is the best way to get to the top two Transmission to Engine bolts?
Just for your information. There is a removeable panel under the carpet inside the passenger compartment
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