Solved Ford Explorer 5 speed conversion - Going Full Manual

[gmanpaint]

I removed the lower plastic dash panel and the steel panel behind it and used a 2' extension to remove the 4 nuts from the brake booster studs and then had to lay on my back to get to the remaining 2 bolts that go up into the dash support/fire wall.

With the 4 booster nuts off and the booster rod disconnected from the pedal assembly, you should have enough play in your brake lines to pull the booster forwards off of the firewall enough to give you the room you need.

Yeah, I did the same thing. those top ones were fun! ....NOT!

I removed the drivers seat and laid on my back to work under the dash.

I will do the booster deal so I can get the bracket out. I was afraid I had to do something along those lines. Oh well, thats the way it goes..lol

 

[Foxracin]

Dont know about a 95 and up but on my first gen I was able to leave the pedal assembly bolted in. All I had to do was take out the auto brake pedal, put the manual brake pedal in and slide the clutch pedal in. A lost simpler then taing the whole assembly out I think. Dont know if it will work that way for you or not.

 

[90ranajo]

Don't know about a 95 and up but on my first gen I was able to leave the pedal assembly bolted in. All I had to do was take out the auto brake pedal, put the manual brake pedal in and slide the clutch pedal in. A lost simpler then taking the whole assembly out I think. Don't know if it will work that way for you or not.

The '95+ clutch master snaps into the clutch/brake pedal assembly, where as the older ones had the clutch master bolted to the firewall.

 

[gmanpaint]

Dont know about a 95 and up but on my first gen I was able to leave the pedal assembly bolted in. All I had to do was take out the auto brake pedal, put the manual brake pedal in and slide the clutch pedal in. A lost simpler then taing the whole assembly out I think. Dont know if it will work that way for you or not.

Thats interesting. They look like they are all the same from 91 up.

The only dif I see is the auto has a long bolt & nut holding the brake pedal on, and the manual has a long pin with a retaining ring on it, that would most likely work. What the heck, I can give it a shot, if it dont work, I will do the booster deal.

Thanks!

Edit: Just read Bobs post. The assembly bracket looks identical except for the clutch pedal and the long pin holding it on. I will look closer at it again. I hope it dont bolt in either, cause I have no hardware for it! eeeek! I will get some pics of the two for comparison.

 

[gmanpaint]

Nevermind, I don't know what the heck I was thinking. The assembly brackets are totally different. There is more to the manual just like Bob said. I think the heat has got to me, I'm not thinking straight. Forgive me please!

 

[90ranajo]

The clutch master slides into the square hole on the left side of the bracket and secures with a 1/8 turn.

 

[gmanpaint]

I knew this too. I really had a brain fart. I have got alot of stuff going on right now. No excuse for my poor call.

While I was working on the rig, the neighbor had the animal control over again. Someone had called for the dog they don't take care of. Well, after the officer left, he came at me in a rage, I had to take him out. So yeah, other stuff going on here too...lol

 

[Foxracin]

Well I was at the junkyard today and saw a 95 with a 5 speed. Figured I would check it out and get some info for you.

Apparently the engine harnesses are different from a atuo and 5speed. The engine harness on the 5 speed has only 1 connector and its a grey square one unlike either you have posted in the pics about I quoted.

Here is what was on it.

The trans harness is the big grey connector on the left side and the loom on the right side is for the passenger side 02 sensor plug. That is all thats back there. No black on like in your pic.

Here is what the trans harness consists of.

VSS Plug

Driver side 02 plug

Revers switch plug

That is on a factory 95 with a 5speed. Hope it helps but probably not what you want to hear. lol

I went ahead and got the trans and harness for spares since it all was only $80. Theres another 5 speed I will probably go back and get and try to re sale.

 

[gmanpaint]

Foxracin, Thank you so much for taking time out of your day and thinking of this.

The trans harness is almost the same except for the Ranger one I have has 1 extra O2 connector.

The gray connector is sad to see. But I appreciate the heads up. The black connector on the trans harness I have does indeed hook up to the black connector on my engine harness. I will find out what happens when it is all put back together and it gets fired up for the first time.

Good score on the trans and parts.


I only got the clutch pedal assembly installed today and the sliding back of the power booster worked like a charm. That was another "DOH!" moments. Since the booster nuts were off its studs already from removing them for the stock brake pedal assembly.

I also had to move all my wiring that I had going threw the grommet where the slave rod goes threw the firewall. Ended up using a dremel tool, a cutting bit (looks like a drill bit) and cut out a 1"x.5" channel to another hole made to fit the wires. Just slid them all over from one hole to the other, simple.

 

[Foxracin]

No problem man. I needed the same info as I am going to be converting mine to eec-v/obd-2 eventually so I can tune it with the supercharger. I already have a computer and now a trans harness. Going to go back next weekend and go ahead and pull that engine harness off it too since it will work with the trans harness.

 

[gmanpaint]

Anyone have a picture of the clutch pedal set up?

I have it installed, but I don't have whatever it takes to hold the rod on the pedal. The brake cable is held on with a push thru clip & a plastic bushing. There is no hole that I seen for the slave rod. Does it take a c-clip that snaps on the end of the little rod on the side of the pedal?

 

[damarble]

It's a stud with a ball, a bushing goes over it to hold the end of the rod on. At least that's how the 91 I just worked on was. I guess the bushings usually break when you take it apart, as mine did. I just slipped a washer over it clipped one of those safety pins used for hitch pins.

 

[gmanpaint]

I looked up the linkage, all I could find is the thin plastic bushing that goes on it. I couldn't find any clip, pins, etc... that hold it on.

From what I read researching it, there is just the bushing. It can (and does) wear down, needing replaced. I found that Dorman (help!) makes a asst kit that will fit F-150, all E series, and a couple Mustangs.

Dealership can sell them for $8 a pop! Pfftt, yeah right...lol

I also read that when they wear down, they can cause a squeak, or even allow the rod to come off.

 

[damarble]

I couldn't find any clip, pins, etc... that hold it on.

I don't think there is, just that rubber/plastic bushing. One of the reasons I used a clip this time around, didn't want to deal with getting a new one.

 

[gmanpaint]

With the help of MrQ, (he posted a pic of the man shifter plate, & info) I cut the plate from under the rig using a Dremel cutting bit and a couple different style Weiss snips. There are four dimples in the plate. After drawing straight lines from one to the other, I cut the hole.

Plan (in my head) is to cut the insulation and the carpet in triangle sections from the center outwards. For weather protection, I am thinking of using a rubber floor mat, cut some triangle strips (circle pattern) in it as well so the shifter can move about. Attach it with self tappers into the body, from underneath. I might even use some body caulking around the edges to help seal it more.

Manual shifter plate looking down

Looking up, front end is at top. My feeble attempt to match it. Since I have the full console, the t-case shifter hole is farther away and some of the trans tunnel had to be cut away to make it fit.

I went ahead and hooked up the trans harness to the engine harness, and the manual starter. Attempting to install the clutch plate in the morning. Will post back when more is done.

 

[damarble]

With the help of MrQ,

MrQ huh? MY picture seems to be making the rounds pretty fast, I guess I should have signed it....


The rubber floor mat sounds like a good idea. I had some scrap vinyl I used for mine and it help with noise tremendously. Thick rubber would do even better.

 

[gmanpaint]

Haha! MrQ did say someone had given it to him for help. He just repaid the favor for me.
Glad you got it to him, so it could make its way to me

I have a good size rubber floor mat that will cover both shifter holes. I imagine in the winter it could get pretty cold and hot in the summer without.

 

[gmanpaint]

Welp, I might torch this sucker down now after today, Grrrrr.......

Installing the clutch was going fine, until...............I snapped one of the pressure plate bolts off torquing it. My big torq wrench just didnt want to do 20 ft lbs. So I borrowed the neighbors smaller wrench. The bolt seemed tight, but kept on turning and no "click", so I kept at it slowly. Then "Snap" off came the head.

5 out 6 bolts ok? LOL. I knew something like this was going to happen to me installing this clutch. I didn't want to do it alone for the first time. Now WTF am I going to do? Get a new flexplate? Screw that!

I am utterly disgusted right now.

 

[IZwack]

Not 100% sure on the bolt you are talking about but if its the one that holds the pressure plate onto the flywheel, then cant you remove the other 5 bolts and try to fish out the one that broke off? If it broke at the head (which is usually the case), then you might even have enough protruding from the surface of the flywheel so that you can put a nut over it and weld inside the nut.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yes it is the bolt holding the plate to the flywheel. It broke off recessed. No meat to do anything with it. Drilling, easy out, is the only way I know.

I'm just so aggravated with it right now, I think I am going to leave it with 5 bolts holding it on, and call it good.