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Front D/S Bad 97 Merq AWD

SN95GT50

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Joined
March 13, 2007
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Location
Des Moines, IA
City, State
Des Moines, IA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Jeep Wrangler
Just got a call from Frod, the front DS is bad and needs to be replaced, I was told it is not servicable. They want $800 for the shaft (I think that included the install). How hard is it to pull one of these out and replace it (125k on the clock)? I just got a price of $207 from NAPA with an employee discount.

Just want to know if I should tackle it myself.

SN95GT50
 



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Could you be a little more discriptive of your problem? There are many different components on the drivers side front.
 






I was told it was the front drive shaft, that is the part I want to replace and need to know how difficult it is. I thought that was specific enuff.

I get your confusion DS was drive shaft, not drivers side. (Sorry)

SN
 






I was told it was the front drive shaft, that is the part I want to replace and need to know how difficult it is. I thought that was specific enuff.

I get your confusion DS was drive shaft, not drivers side. (Sorry)

SN

lol, no problem I realized it as soon as I posted my response but my internet went down and I couldn't edit it.

The front drive shaft is pretty easy to replace. There are about 12 bolts in total to remove and then you align your new shaft and bolt it in.

If your replacement shaft already has the ujoint installed it could be as few as 8 bolts. Before you remove it mark the flanges on the differential and T-case as well as the Driveshaft side of them so you keep as close of an alignment as possible if you have to put your old one back in. You can also transfer these marks to your new driveshaft in the same spots as old so you can get as close to the original balance as possible.
 






I would also make sure that the driveshaft is shot, sometimes a shop will tell you to replace it when all that is bad is the U-joint. $207 is a really good price on a new driveshaft, but if it's only the U-joint it will be as low as $30 to fix.
 






99% sure it is the front drive shaft. This is a common issue.

Be prepared to change it over and again until Napa gets you a good one.

Save the receipt.
 












is it a problem with getting one that was balanced correctly, Jon?

Nope-
The CV's are a bad design, and unless rebuilt well do not hold up.

There May be a solution though---

This adapter will adapt the 6 hole cv flange of the transfer case to a 4 hole u joint flange, supposedly for a toyota truck drive shaft.

I would like to have this duplicated in steel, and, then offer a couple out for people to try. I think it could solve the problem permanently.

attachment.php


I had a guy lined up to make them, but due to a tragedy it didn't work out.
 






Ok, I just slid under the mounty, it looks like I need to remove 6 relatively small bolts on the tranny end of the driveshaft to get it out. It looks like I can then take it up and back to slide it out of the front. Is this correct? Is there enough room, or will I need to remove more items?

SN95GT50
 












I realized that right before I got your response. I have a T25 & a T30 but no T27, arggh. Off to the store. What are the tork settings when I put these back in?

SN95
 






Picked up a dewalt T27 broke it and tried the T30, fit perfectly. A little PB Blaster and a grunt and they came out.

Should I use loc-tite when putting them back in? Anyone have the torgue #'s?

SN95GT50
 






Tried to put the new shaft in and it was too long. the side at the trasfe case will slide but I have it pushed all the way in and I can't get the u joint to slide together. Am I missing something?

SN95GT50
 






There are two different lengths for driveshafts- in mid 97, they shifted the motor back. You probably have one that requires the shorter driveshaft. Ask NAPA to look up the shorter one.

I would have sworn mine takes a T27. :dunno:
 






Yep, it was about 3/4" longer than the stocker.
 






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