Front end binding then popping

[lwadef01]

Hey Explorer fans & owners. I have an update & further questions about my 1998 Explorer with the auto 4 high & 4 low. As I said in a previous post my Explorer had started binding then popping when turning especially to the left & the 4 high & 4 low lights would flash about 6 times every so often. After reading & asking many questions I came to the conclusion that the transfer case was going bad but one local transmission shop insisted that he had ran into problems with this generation of Ford auto 4x4s doing the exact same thing due to mismatched tires. Something about the slightly different sizes fooling the sensors making it think the wheel was slipping thus causing the 4x4 auto to engage when turning. So I had an alignment done & put new tires on it & it fixed it.....almost. 1st the lights no longer flash but it still grinds & pops mainly on left turns & only when you first start driving. Once you've driven a few miles it seems to stop & drive perfectly. So here's the question WHY does it only still have issues at 1st that stop as you drive? I've considered fluid viscosity but its just ATF which is pretty thin stuff anyway. The new tires & alignment have fixed 80% of my problems how do I fix the other 20%? Change fluid?
Sorry for the long post but thanks for any help or advice.

 

[CDW6212R]

The tires have to be exactly matching in diameter, no difference, identical, the front pair has to match the rear pair in diameter. You must keep them rotated to be sure they stay equal. So what shape are the tires in?

The binding is a symptom of mismatched tires, popping is a more serious indication that it's happened for a long time. The result will eventually be a destroyed front diff, and/or the transfer case too. The TC just uses a clutch internally to engage the front shaft, so it isn't as likely as true 4WD versions to fail big inside. The clutch is its weakest link.

I'd get under it and check on how much play there is at the front pinion shaft. How much will that move side to side? If it's moving much at all, then the bearings inside are just about gone, and it'll have to have a new diff, or rebuilt.

Pulling the front driveshaft can relieve the binding, but it won't stop the dash light from indicating an error. Using a switch to interrupt the brown wire(TC clutch wire) can also stop the front shaft from engaging.

 

[Turdle]

Place a pry bar between the frame and the 3rd bolt ( threaded in going up to frame) which holds the front diff to the frame. see if you can get any movement of the flange away from the frame. It needs to be rock solid, if you can get any movement there I am certain it is the source of your binding pop on initial run-

 

[CDW6212R]

Place a pry bar between the frame and the 3rd bolt ( threaded in going up to frame) which holds the front diff to the frame. see if you can get any movement of the flange away from the frame. It needs to be rock solid, if you can get any movement there I am certain it is the source of your binding pop on initial run-

Hey Jon, have you heard of a way to buy that bushing to replace it? I bought two pairs of the other two bushings from Ford, but the 3rd one on the arm/bracket they don't have. I was planning to take a used one(the whole bracket) to O'Reilly's and see if they can find a match for that bushing.

 

[Turdle]

Hey Jon, have you heard of a way to buy that bushing to replace it? I bought two pairs of the other two bushings from Ford, but the 3rd one on the arm/bracket they don't have. I was planning to take a used one(the whole bracket) to O'Reilly's and see if they can find a match for that bushing.

I kinda thought the frame bushings were the same as the torque bracket bushing, have you compared them? seems they were the same but i might be wrong. I used a new -used torque bracket to fix my popping -thumping, in this thread:
Solved - Front Differential Thumps and Jumps= Bad things happen in 4wd

more on this, copied from post 816 in the maroon link in my signature:


Part number for front differential -axle housing mount bushings

F67Z 3A443 AA ( around 38.00 each from ford)

There is also one in the torque bracket so to do them all you'll need 3

The complete front differential axle housing torque (mounting) bracket part number is 3L5Z 3K090 AA
This part is $190.00 so I would attempt the bushing first.

Yes these are press in.
For removal, Remove the center tube (easily presses out) and rubber first ( cut out or burn) , then shave off the outer rim piece with with a cutoff tool so you can fit a backer sleeve for pushing the bushing out. A few dimples to the bushing edge with an air hammer makes the pushing edge larger. I used a 1 1/4" socket and a c clamp press to push it out once the guys had it all prepped.


edit. click here

or here

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks. Comparing them the 3rd bushings looks a hair longer, the metal section which is clamped to the frame mount. It's a very close shape but the length seems different.

That Tasca source is great, I check them sometimes, but these I got from my guy here, for $35 each, and $135 for the whole 3rd arm/bushing. I'll find a way to replace the used 3rd bushings for two of my trucks, and the new one will go on my project truck.