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Need help, front end binding hard.

ExploreXLT

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May 17, 2009
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City, State
South Carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 XLT
Ok, heres a rundown: My parents have a 1997 Explorer XLT, SOHC/auto, 4x4. It has around 110k on it, but has recently started binding hard in the front end while making a tight corner.

Driving in a straight line, no problems. Turning at a crawl, no problems. Turning slightly at a crawl or a slower speed (10-15mph) no problem.

The problem occurs when driving maybe 5-15mph (havn't tried much over that) and taking a turn that is maybe 2/3 to full steering lock. The front end binds up really hard, the outside tire starts to hop (it will squeel during the turn from binding), and there is a nasty vibration/rubbing noise. It does not matter which direction you are turning, but the outside wheel is always the one binding and skipping.

So far, the front differential has an ample amount of fluid. Transfer case has fluid. Transmission has fluid, although burnt and needs to be changed. Coloration of the differential and transfer case fluids were fine.

It isn't popping or clicking like a CV axle, and my dad and I jacked the front end off the ground and tried to find any play in either front wheel, both of which were nice and tight, which goes against a hub bearing or ball joint.

It engauges and dis-enguages all levels of 4wd (auto, hi, low) just fine.


I personally think the problem is in the transfer case. We tried to pull the relay to the transfer case to see if the problem would go away, but the Explorer wouldn't start after that. OK.

Next thing we wanted to do was pull the front shaft and see if that stopped the problem, but we were unsure if pulling the front shaft is going to leak the transfer case fluid out. Are we safe to do that, or is fluid going to go everywhere?

Any suggestions as to what the problem may be, or if it's a common thing? We also have a '95 that has been real good to us, but the '97 has kind of been the problem child of the two.

If it's possible, I'd like to help him knock this out without taking it to the shop...

Any help would be great, this looks like a forum full of knowledgeable people... I've lurked here for a while, but just now signed up.

Sorry for the long post, and thank you for any help!!! lol.


Edit: Also, was a limited slip available for the front differential? If so, is it possible that it is binding up and needs a fluid change and some friction modifier?
 



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No limted slip for front diff.
Binding I have read is common at those speeds. i would check all your balljoints and tierod ends for siezure. Jack up the front and see if you can turn the wheels by hand with no issue's. Also, i would check the CV joints for wear as that would seem logical that that could be the problem. Only thing is, the rubber boots cover everything. Not sure exaclty how you check those for wear??
Again, I have been going through lots of posts and have heard that shudder and binding are two common issue's that have been isued TSB's but nothing has been done to correct the issue.
 






Thanks for the reply.

When I took a look, nothing seemed out of place. None of the boots on the CV's were torn, tierod ends looked fine, and from what I could tell the balljoints seemed alright.

Might need to look a little closer, but I am still curious... can I pull the front shaft without losing the transfer case fluid?
 






No problems pulling the shaft. The fluid level should be 1/2" below the seal when the vehicle is level. When i re-fill on my back in my driveway, I try to tilt the vehicle to the side of the drain hole. I usually drive onto a patio block or just jack up the opposit side of the fill, so if the fill hole is on the front, I lift the back up a few inches off the ground. This allows the fluid to pour out the hole so to stop and when you lower the vehicle back level, the fluid drops to 1/2" or so as it should. Very tough to stop and guage where the level is. Just a tip for furture changes. makes them very easy.
 






My guess is the front diff is failing, not the x-fer case.
 






No problems pulling the shaft. The fluid level should be 1/2" below the seal when the vehicle is level. When i re-fill on my back in my driveway, I try to tilt the vehicle to the side of the drain hole. I usually drive onto a patio block or just jack up the opposit side of the fill, so if the fill hole is on the front, I lift the back up a few inches off the ground. This allows the fluid to pour out the hole so to stop and when you lower the vehicle back level, the fluid drops to 1/2" or so as it should. Very tough to stop and guage where the level is. Just a tip for furture changes. makes them very easy.

Glad to hear the shaft can be pulled without dumping the fluid.

Thanks for the tips on that as well. The fluid was full and the coloration was good from the transfer case, so that is a plus.

It's easy breezy switching the fluid on the X or my Cherokee, I love being able to roll under there with a creeper, and maybe need a set of ramps at the most to crawl around. On my Mustang, nothing is ever that simple... changing the trans fluid without a lift is a pain in the rear. hahaha.

My guess is the front diff is failing, not the x-fer case.

Man, that sucks to hear. Either way it isn't a cheap repair, but I guess we will get a clue after pulling the shaft.
 






My guess is the front diff is failing, not the x-fer case.

I dunno how that could make any difference on an open carrier? Binding is common, especially among the auto 4x4 and electronic shift 4x4. Those axle shafts still spin even though the Exp isn't in 4wd at the time.
Again, I would say it is CV joint related...Failing internal u-joints will cause excess bind over the normal bind that has been recorded numerous times in the TSB's.
 






If it was me at this point
I would take the cv's out of the 95, and swap them into the 97. If the old gal's axle shafts fix your problem, treat her to the new set, and leave hers in the 97.
 






Pulled the front shaft today. Overall, the problem is MUCH less noticable, but still when taking a sharp corner with full, or somewhat near full lock on the steering it binds, but much less.

This leads me to think it's the ball joints or CV's, and that the t-case is fine.

Thank you guys for the help thus far.


I dunno how that could make any difference on an open carrier? Binding is common, especially among the auto 4x4 and electronic shift 4x4. Those axle shafts still spin even though the Exp isn't in 4wd at the time.
Again, I would say it is CV joint related...Failing internal u-joints will cause excess bind over the normal bind that has been recorded numerous times in the TSB's.

The thought behind it being a limited slip is that possibly the clutches were worn out and chattering or binding up.

CV's sound like they could be it now, even though they aren't showing the normal symptoms.

If it was me at this point
I would take the cv's out of the 95, and swap them into the 97. If the old gal's axle shafts fix your problem, treat her to the new set, and leave hers in the 97.

I'm not sure if we would be able to do that. One of them has to be a daily driver and can't have much down time. If it is at all possible, that is a good suggestion.

How hard is it to swap them? Never done the job before but have a decent amount of tools.
 






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