Fuel Gauge does not work

[mange1234]

Pic on the fourm. Thanks

Check this out it mite help some I found this in the New Member Forum it's a video HERE shows you how to post from photo bucket. But it's a little hard to follow. I will try and help wit some tips of my own.

First you have your pic in your computer. Size it now so it will fit better on a web page 640x480 is a good size. Now sign up to http://photobucket.com/ or similar upload your pics to there site. From there copy and past the IMG code rite into your text box. Below the text box hit "Preview Post" it will show you if it worked and you can edit before posting.
Hope I helped a little.

Thanks for the help. I have an account on PhotoBucket. I will figure it out and post some of my boring pics.

Mike

 

[Turdle]

I do not believe you can disconnect the thing on top. I might be wrong about this.
The fuel lines are weird. Sometimes you fight them and cannot get it to release, other times the same one seems to fall apart when you return to it.
That is the best advice I can give, other than making sure the little spring clips are cleaned out before you insert the tool. It always seems to me the next tool larger than the one which fits well works better too. Tape over you newly cut edges to protect your knuckles.

 

[mange1234]

If I understand you correctly... You disconnected the sending unit wire from the fuel pump plug and grounded it. When you did that the gauge went to over full?

If that is correct then your gauge cluster and wires are fine. The problem is the sending unit in the tank. Since you will be in the tank, I'd replace the entire assembly..

BTW.. the correct impedance for the sending unit is 22 ohm empty to 145 full (give or take some). That is measures between the sending unit and ground.

~Mark

Hey Mark,

That is correct. When I disconned the fuel pump gauge level connector, the needle swings over to full. And, when it is plugged back in, the needle goes back to MT. Although the tank is about 3/4 full.

Mike

 

[Tbars4]

...I've got a fuel pump out of the tank right now if anyone wants some pics or if there is a test that can be done on the pump alone I can get some pics of that too....

 

[mange1234]

I would like some picture of your fuel pump

...I've got a fuel pump out of the tank right now if anyone wants some pics or if there is a test that can be done on the pump alone I can get some pics of that too....

I would like to see some pics. Did you have any trouble disconnecting the fuel line at the tank. I cant get the disconnect tool to work. Think I will try another approach and just dig out the spring, and replace with a new one.

Thanks,

Mike in Virginia Beach, Virginia

 

[bruce119]

I would like to see some pics. Did you have any trouble disconnecting the fuel line at the tank. I cant get the disconnect tool to work. Think I will try another approach and just dig out the spring, and replace with a new one.

Thanks,

Mike in Virginia Beach, Virginia

I used the tools below from Auto Zone for $10.00 I did the A/C lines but should work the same. There was one I had a very hard time with. After putting the tool around the clip it did not want to move and you don't have any leverage to push the tool/clip. What I did was get an open end wrench put it in front of the tool taped the wrench and that gave me the leverage needed to push the clip back. Look at the photos below they may help explain what I mean. Hope this helps.

Here is the tool kit from A. Z. Part Number: 25052

Below photos from a Haynes manual

Here is were I use an open end wrench. I did not have the space or leverage strength to push back the clip. Instead of using your fingers use an open end wrench and tap as close as you can you may have to tape the tool so it wont open on you I was able to hold it close. It worked for me.

 

[IAmTodd]

I used the plastic ones above, removed the smaller line no problem but I fought with the large line for days. Finally bought a different version and much better success.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fuel-and-auto-trans-line-disconnect-tool-set-96834.html

 

[mange1234]

I do not believe you can disconnect the thing on top. I might be wrong about this.
The fuel lines are weird. Sometimes you fight them and cannot get it to release, other times the same one seems to fall apart when you return to it.
That is the best advice I can give, other than making sure the little spring clips are cleaned out before you insert the tool. It always seems to me the next tool larger than the one which fits well works better too. Tape over you newly cut edges to protect your knuckles.

It is possible to disconnect the fuel line connectors from the top, because I just did it. And, want to share with others, since previously, I struggled for hours trying to get them disconnected, until I did my home work and realized that it is just a small spring or clip inside the female part of the connector which can be removed by drilling a hole about 1/8 inch, and push the spring out. Dont worry about damaging the spring or clip, since they are available at Auto Zone for about three or four of them for $3-4 bucks.

I posted a picture of the spring and a picture on where to drill the hole to push and pry the spring out.

The spring is just sitting there loosely in the female cavity and will remove with no problems.

Since I am a newbie and dont know how to post pics yet, I have posted some pictures on my facebook for members to see. My face book name is "Samuel Clemens." There are several Samuel Clemens on facebook. But, mine will be the one with a picture of a blue, 1993 Ford Explorer.

If anyone wants pic of some other things I have done with the connector and cutting the "trapdoor' go to my facebook or my email address is [michaelange@verizon.net] I am anxious to help others on this forum since I have been given invaluable help and want to return the favor.

Mike in Virginia Beach

 

[mange1234]

Disconnect the plug that is on the top of the tank. Now take the sending unit wire (I don't have a wiring diagram handy so I can't tell you what color it is) and ground it. IF the gauge goes to full then its the sending unit.

I don't "think" you need to lower the tank as long as the spare tire is out and the truck is high enough for you to sit up under there.

~Mark

Does that plug on top of the fuel pump disconnect or is it securely fixed on the pump top. I dont want to start prying it off if it is not desighed to upplut.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Tbars4]

..The plug on top of the tank is actually a plastic isolator that is riveted thru a plate in which the wires connect on each side of it...

Do not try and unplug or remove the wires there..

...The wires are actually in a "pigtail" about 18" long which run from the top of the fuel pump, across the rear of the tank, heading toward the rear of the vehicle and onto the frame rail where they plug into another connector/harness that then runs forward.

..Here is a pic of my pigtail connection just for some orientation and location..It is shown pulled away from the frame rail...

..Notice the rear bump stop and the rear brake line?..The connection is right above those tucked into the c channel of the frame on the drivers side to the rear of the fuel tank..

These 2 pics just show what you would be dealing with if you were trying to remve the wires from the top of the tank..

..I took a bunch of pics of the old fuel pump so if anyone needs them they are located here..
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3959

 

[bruce119]

I got this thread marked. Thanks for the pics they sure come in handy. This is on my to do list my pump still works but the sending unit is not working. So I run on mileage fill up every 200 miles.
Thanks

 

[Tbars4]

..A common failure item for the fuel gauge were these old metal floats..They would corrode, pit, then get holes in them till they started filling up with gas..Rockranger has a thread on these somewhere with a P/N and I believe they cost about $5 at the time..(the new pumps have a plastic "Float" (can't find a pic)

There are a couple other things I could share...

1) Be sure to purchase on your same receipt as the fuel pump, a new fuel filter and replace your fuel filter at the same time as most fuel pump suppliers are requesting this proof for warranty of the pump..

2) Get a Motorcraft or Carter Fuel pump for replacement..Do Not get an "Airtek" brand as these seem to have high failure rates from my searches..

3) I use the plastic line tool as I can get it into tight places and the one I use is the grey one pictured above for both sizes..

4) The secret to getting the fuel line off with this tool is to

a) Try to clean out dirt where tool is to slide in
b) install the tool over line and slide down into the hose
c) Important push fuel line up onto the tool
d) while keeping pressure on the tool to stay inside the hose, pull both together while wiggling them off of the hard line..



..I've seen guys fighting theirs, told them to try this and piece of cake..:biggthump

..On the other hand, if you have one of those ears hung up inside it's a pain but can still be removed as mentioned above..

..Here is a pic just for reference of the fuel filter tool on the hard line in proper position to remove the fuel line (fuel line already removed)

..The Carter box shows the requirement of a new filter for warranty..

Note: I actually found the Carter pump cheaper (by a 1/3) locally than the cheapest price I can find online and I didn't even shop it..

 

[mange1234]

Check this out it mite help some I found this in the New Member Forum it's a video HERE shows you how to post from photo bucket. But it's a little hard to follow. I will try and help wit some tips of my own.

First you have your pic in your computer. Size it now so it will fit better on a web page 640x480 is a good size. Now sign up to http://photobucket.com/ or similar upload your pics to there site. From there copy and past the IMG code rite into your text box. Below the text box hit "Preview Post" it will show you if it worked and you can edit before posting.
Hope I helped a little.

Thanks for the help. I have an account on PhotoBucket. I will figure it out and post some of my boring pics.

Mike

Thanks you very much for your help, and thanks too other forum members also. After all the help, I finally figured out how to post pictures.

Mike in Virginia Beach

 

[mange1234]

..A common failure item for the fuel gauge were these old metal floats..They would corrode, pit, then get holes in them till they started filling up with gas..Rockranger has a thread on these somewhere with a P/N and I believe they cost about $5 at the time..(the new pumps have a plastic "Float" (can't find a pic)

There are a couple other things I could share...

1) Be sure to purchase on your same receipt as the fuel pump, a new fuel filter and replace your fuel filter at the same time as most fuel pump suppliers are requesting this proof for warranty of the pump..

2) Get a Motorcraft or Carter Fuel pump for replacement..Do Not get an "Airtek" brand as these seem to have high failure rates from my searches..

3) I use the plastic line tool as I can get it into tight places and the one I use is the grey one pictured above for both sizes..

4) The secret to getting the fuel line off with this tool is to

a) Try to clean out dirt where tool is to slide in
b) install the tool over line and slide down into the hose
c) Important push fuel line up onto the tool
d) while keeping pressure on the tool to stay inside the hose, pull both together while wiggling them off of the hard line..



..I've seen guys fighting theirs, told them to try this and piece of cake..:biggthump

..On the other hand, if you have one of those ears hung up inside it's a pain but can still be removed as mentioned above..

..Here is a pic just for reference of the fuel filter tool on the hard line in proper position to remove the fuel line (fuel line already removed)

..The Carter box shows the requirement of a new filter for warranty..

Note: I actually found the Carter pump cheaper (by a 1/3) locally than the cheapest price I can find online and I didn't even shop it..

Oh Whow,

What a wealth of information. Thank you all very much. I love it. Better this way than struggling through and making a ton of expensive mistakes and wasted time.

My fuel pump works fine, but the level gauge does not work. Think I will pull the pump and level indicator and see if the float is holed. And, replace same.
thanks again all,

Mike in Virginia Beach

 

[bruce119]

Mike,
Nice looking truck how many miles on it looks in good shape.

Good job on the patch, did you work on the unit yet. Do you have any pics of your access hole. If you haven't done the work yet take a few shots of the open hole to help us reference where and how yours came out.

I plan on doing mine this winter. Here in Florida everything is backwards it's too hoot to do anything in summer every thing gets done in the winter.

Great info everything is helpful.
Thanks
Bruce

 

[bruce119]

Mike,
Good job on the patch, did you work on the unit yet. Do you have any pics of your access hole. If you haven't done the work yet take a few shots of the open hole to help us reference where and how yours came out.
Great info everything is helpful.
Thanks
Bruce

I went back and found the pics you posted. I am sizing them and posting them below.
Thanks

 

[mange1234]

Mike,
Nice looking truck how many miles on it looks in good shape.

Good job on the patch, did you work on the unit yet. Do you have any pics of your access hole. If you haven't done the work yet take a few shots of the open hole to help us reference where and how yours came out.

I plan on doing mine this winter. Here in Florida everything is backwards it's too hoot to do anything in summer every thing gets done in the winter.

Great info everything is helpful.
Thanks
Bruce

Hey Bruce,

Thanks for the response to my thread. To answer your question, I have not pulled the pump as of today. Matter of fact, that was and is on my mine this morning, while drinking my coffee.

I put the seats back, but thinking about pulling the seat, and pullling the pump and sending unit, since seeing the pictures on here with the float and pump.

II am retired and on a fixed income, so have not the luxury of just replacing everything, so I will replace the float and leave the pump alone until it goes "belly up".

I went to Home Depot and bought an angle grinder for $25.00, and a few cutting disc. And, cut the hole.

Dont forget, it is very difficult to remove the duckbill connector through small 7 inch hole. So, you may have to drill a hole (like I did) in top of fitting to get the spring out. (Look for pictures I posted) or I can resend to you.

When you drill the hole, slide a piece of metal under the fitting so you dont drill into the fuel oil line. I used the metal disconnect too. Just slide it under so the drill bit will hit it once it goes through the connector. I will resend if you want.

Also, there is plenty of room between the tank and top of floor. But, Only about 1 1/2 to 2 inches between the floor and the fuel hoses. I slide a piece of sheet metal between them. You can reach under the back left wheel well and feel the pump and tank to. So, slide the piece of metal under there.

I also put a wet rag over the top of the tank and top of fuel pump for safety. The grinder throughs lots of sparks.

Let me know how you make out and if you want any more info. Let me know.

Good luck,

Mike in Virginia Beach

 

[Sip]

Fuel Gauge

If I understand you correctly... You disconnected the sending unit wire from the fuel pump plug and grounded it. When you did that the gauge went to over full?

If that is correct then your gauge cluster and wires are fine. The problem is the sending unit in the tank. Since you will be in the tank, I'd replace the entire assembly..

BTW.. the correct impedance for the sending unit is 22 ohm empty to 145 full (give or take some). That is measures between the sending unit and ground.

~Mark

I have a ford explorer 91 and the problem is when I cut the key off the gas gauge needle doesnt want to go the E like a normal car does do you know what the problem may be? I have already replace the fuel pump and that came with a new sending unit.

 

[cgbier]

Mine shows roughly a quarter when the ignition is off. When I start the truck it goes to 0.

Tank is full!

Will cleaning the contacts on the sending unit help? Or will it be the grounding trick? Or a new sending unit?

TIA

 

[IAmTodd]

Mine shows roughly a quarter when the ignition is off. When I start the truck it goes to 0.

Tank is full!

Will cleaning the contacts on the sending unit help? Or will it be the grounding trick? Or a new sending unit?

TIA

If you're going that far in just replace the whole unit. It's under $100 and you don't want to do it a second time. Most likely, if it's the stock one, the float has cracked and full of fuel.