Fuel line removal tool | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Fuel line removal tool

James909

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 17, 2008
Messages
674
Reaction score
3
City, State
Long Island, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 GMC Yukon 2 Door
I have a 92 X and the gas gauge hasn't worked since I bought it. I am pretty sure that the float is leaking because it always reads empty but the gauge does move when I turn the key off. Well as far as I know the fuel pump is original so when I drop the tank next weekend I am just going to replace it so that I don't have to do it again later. My question is do I need a fuel line removal tool or can I get by without one? If I need one does anyone know what size tool I need? Also I plan on replacing the lock ring because my replacement pump didn't come with one so does anyone know the part number for the lock ring? One more thing, would I be able to get a new pump strainer at an auto parts store or would I have to go to the dealer? Thanks, James.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





you can get everything you need at advance auto parts. if you bought the fuel pump/sending unit assembly it should have come with a new lock ring and 0-ring and should have the strainer already attached to the pump. you will deffinetly need a line removal tool. i reccomend the ampro 5/16" red fuel line disconnect. its a little more pricey than the plastic ones but it works better and makes the job easier.
 






Thanks for the info. I just double checked the new pump which is a Bosch and it came with a new o ring but not the lock ring, so I will probably still need to replace that because the old one will probably be rusted. I think the pump did however come with a strainer attached but what confused me is what the instructions said. This is straight from the instructions: "A new filter screen is required (sold separately). Failure to replace the filter screen will void the warranty." Attached to the bottom of the pump is what looks like a mesh bag which I am assuming is the strainer. I was expecting a metal screen but this is the strainer, right?
 






Yea that sounds like the strainer. And Its normal for the fuel gauge to go up when you turn the truck off even when the float is working.
Oh yea and be patient with the fuel line "quick disconnects" as they are by no means quick, unless you get lucky.
 






Thanks for clearing that up. Now does anyone happen to know off hand the part number for the lock ring? If no one knows I can just go and describe the part. I should be able to get it at the dealer, right?
 






Never mind, I was able to get the lock ring at Autozone. It was $20 which seems a little steep to me but I figured it would just be more at the stealership and I wanted to make sure I had the lock ring ready for when I drop the tank because the old one will probably be rusted. Thanks for all the help.
 












Never mind, I was able to get the lock ring at Autozone. It was $20 which seems a little steep to me but I figured it would just be more at the stealership and I wanted to make sure I had the lock ring ready for when I drop the tank because the old one will probably be rusted. Thanks for all the help.

Oh yea and you might want to replace the fuel filter while your under there and already covered in gas.
 






Yup, 5/16" disconnect tool.. Mine is red with a black rubber band to keep it together.. I just did hte fuel pump in my 1992....

I dropped the tank, but couldn't get the fuel lines disconnected from the sender when it was in the tank.. I accidentally contorted the fuel line, it was soo rusty that it bent and broke right off... So at that point, I just broke both off from the pickup and then I could move the fuel lines in a way to get the lines off the metal part....

Yeah, I suspect you might do the same thing.. Just go to the dealer and get the metal ring.. Mine cost $13 dollars.... You will destroy the old one getting it off... Put some oil on the grooves and try to clean them as much as you can.....

ANy help just ask.. It really wasn't too bad.. The hardest part is removing the 14 MM bolts that hold on the tank straps.. THose were really rusty.. I oiled the heck out of them the night before, that helped a lot!
 






aLSO,
It's kind of nice how they have that protection plate hook into the front to kind of hold it there so it doesn't fall down.... The hardest bold to get to is the last strap on the inside rear of the tank.. Because the driveshaft is there.. I had to put together a few extensions.. ANd really press up to not strip the bolt, and you lose torque with the extensions to get past the driveshaft.. If I only had air tools..LOL..
 






To help those who seek-
fuel line disconnect tool picture

this one has served me well.
 

Attachments

  • fuel line disconnect tool.jpg
    fuel line disconnect tool.jpg
    5.7 KB · Views: 417












yea same here, mines Florida Truck . No rust
all that means is a little sunburnt paint on the roof

But if its this easy, Im doing it soon
How much do you think I would spend altogether? (I already have the 5/16" Special fuel line disconnect tool (from "AmPro"advance auto)
I was thinking of getting one from the junkyard is that not a good Idea
 






a pump with sending unit where i work is $118. why spend 40-50 on a used sending unit when you can get a complete assembly brand new, just makes sense.
 






I guess its whatever you can afford but remeber if you get a bad one you will have to drop the tank and fool with the disconnects and all that all over again,. I however got lucky and found one from the junkyard that was new. 20bucks
 






Thanks for the tips. If I have any questions this will be the first place I'll come to. Also if I run into any preventable problems I'll post them so that the next person doesn't have the same problem.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top