Fuel pouring out from engine compartment

[summerspa]

2002 Ford Explorer 4.0L auto.
It's my daughter's car (She loves it).
We bought it used a little over a week ago...had an emissions code but was otherwise good.
She was driving it to work last Friday and suddenly smelled gas.
Drove to a friends house who's dad is a Ford guy.
She was leaving a trail of gas behind her and after she stopped a large puddle of gas poured out under the engine.
Her friend's dad popped the hood and had her start it up.
He said he saw a little puff of smoke when the engine started up and gas started pouring out underneath again.
He didn't see anything spraying up in the engine compartment but did mention the gas was flowing out from the front of the engine and the back.
I'm mechanical (since '70) but not too familiar with the Ford setup.
I know it's a returnless fuel supply so i'm guessing something at the fuel rail has failed.
Got a Haines manual....they sure aren't what they used to be...and can't find any good diagrams of the fuel system on the internet.
Oh yeah, she dumped almost a tank of gas in 15 minutes....now that's a leak!!!
Appreciate any suggestions.

 

[Boonie2]

2002 Ford Explorer 4.0L auto.
It's my daughter's car (She loves it).
We bought it used a little over a week ago...had an emissions code but was otherwise good.
She was driving it to work last Friday and suddenly smelled gas.
Drove to a friends house who's dad is a Ford guy.
She was leaving a trail of gas behind her and after she stopped a large puddle of gas poured out under the engine.
Her friend's dad popped the hood and had her start it up.
He said he saw a little puff of smoke when the engine started up and gas started pouring out underneath again.
He didn't see anything spraying up in the engine compartment but did mention the gas was flowing out from the front of the engine and the back.
I'm mechanical (since '70) but not too familiar with the Ford setup.
I know it's a returnless fuel supply so i'm guessing something at the fuel rail has failed.
Got a Haines manual....they sure aren't what they used to be...and can't find any good diagrams of the fuel system on the internet.
Oh yeah, she dumped almost a tank of gas in 15 minutes....now that's a leak!!!
Appreciate any suggestions.

Suggestion Number 1 DONT start it up until you know where the leak is coming from , thats alot of explosive gas from your description either that or pay up your life and car insurance

 

[Turdle]

I have moved this thread to the stock 2002-2005 explorer sub forum for more views, and answers. Good luck!

 

[summerspa]

Progress report.
Got Brooke (my daughter and primary driver) out in the driveway yesterday and today.
We got the intake manifold off.
I noticed the rear-most torx bolt on the passenger side rear of the intake manifold wasn't screwed in...red flags started waving.
As soon as I got the manifold off I saw a bolt laying in the valley alley on the passenger side.
Turns out it's the fuel rail rear retaining bolt.
Whoever (I hate that guy) did the last repair on the vehicle didn't put it in.
On closer examination, without that bolt the rear part of the fuel rail either never seated fully or was forced up by pressure until the o-ring unseated, hence the massive fuel leak, just like a split line.
Trying to get the fuel line off the fuel rail now.
Looks like a special fitting.
Appreciate any guidance...it's the flex line that attaches at the rear before the y off to each rail.

 

[Joe in NY]

You need fuel line tools. They are thin collars that slide down the fuel line and go into the special fitting. They fore the retaining spring out of the way of the retaining lip and allows you to disconnect the fuel line. Auto parts stores have them. Go for the better ones! (like the $15 set over the $8 set.. Worth it!)

 

[summerspa]

Joe,
Fuel line tools...Roger....thanks.

 

[Joe in NY]

Joe,
Fuel line tools...Roger....thanks.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&searchTerm=fuel+line+tool&vehicleIdSearch=366530&vehicle_366530=2007+%3A+Chevrolet+%3A+Suburban+1500+LTZ+%3A+5.3L+325CI+V8+FI+VIN%3A+3-LC9-Flex&vehicle_31222=1995+%3A+Honda+%3A+Accord+EX+%3A+2.2L+2156CC+L4+FI+VIN%3A+F22B1&vehicle_31227=1995+%3A+Honda+%3A+Accord+EX+%3A+2.7L+2675CC+V6+FI+VIN%3A+C27A4&vehicle_31219=1995+%3A+Honda+%3A+Accord+DX+%3A+2.2L+2156CC+L4+FI+VIN%3A+F22B2&vehicle_145203=2002+%3A+Ford+%3A+Explorer+%3A+4.6L+281CI+V8+FI+VIN%3A+W&searchedFrom=header#storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&vehicleIdSearch=366530&isAllVehicle=false&navigationPath=&sortBy=4&searchTerm=fuel+line+tool&pageId=ajaxPartList&category=&l1_categoryId=&l2_categoryId=&partType=&beginIndex=0&prCnt=313&filters=&selectedPartNumber=&qty=1&ship2HomeClicked=

Sorry for the vague answer but that is what they are called

 

[summerspa]

Joe,
Was serious in my reply...thanks...I'd never looked up Fuel line tools before.

 

[summerspa]

Progress report #2 .
Just got everything back together without any major reassembly problems.
Now it won't crank.
When we turn the key from on/run to start nothing happens except some of the dash indicators dim out.
It didn't crank when we started to work on it either but I figured it was a safety/inertia switch issue and wasn't concerned about it.
I did reset the inertia switch.
When we turn the key to on there is a slight humming sound in the engine compartment that stops after a few seconds. But I'm not getting any pressure showing in the fuel rail test port.
Not sure if I should hear of feel the fuel pump running with the key on, but appreciate any suggestions.
p.s. I have a Bosch OBDII bluetooth reader that runs through my phone.
I haven't plugged it in since we got everything back together and not sure if it would help if the engine isn't running.
Again, suggestions welcome.

 

[summerspa]

Final progress report.
Duhhh, it's called PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System).
When we bought the vehicle it had two key fobs but only one key.
I sent Brooke to the hardware store to get 3 spare keys.
I guess the key-maker didn't have any way to know her vehicle has a PATS.
Brooke made sure the keys opened the door and said she started the vehicle with each key.
But she noticed yesterday that when she tried to start the key (using a spare key) that the THEFT light came on.
I noticed it today when I tried using a spare key which prompted a quick internet search.
Sooo, started the engine with the coded key...it ran TERRIBLE.
Killed the engine, popped the hood and noticed I hadn't plugged the EGR line back into the intake manifold. Surprised it started and ran at all.
Plugged the line in and it cranked and ran MUCH better.
I did have to adjust the idle up a little, but I assume that's to be expected.
Will see how it runs, then check codes.

Thanks to all for your advice and suggestions.